Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 199, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 September 1917 — Women Must Make Study of Clothes [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Women Must Make Study of Clothes

New Tort.—An English paper has recently published an article dealing with the attempt and failure of American women and designers to be independent of Paris and congratulates us on our good sense, as it were, in returning to the source. In truth, there was not a serious or concerted attempt to, be Independent

of Paris. It was only natural that the American people should feel that the outbreak of the war in France would stop all the wheels of her commerce in clothes and that the other countries would be compelled to go on their own. It would take us a century to_accompllsh what we now buy from Paris in a week. We are too canny to give up the best source of fashion on the planet for no reason whatever. If we had to depend on our own creations for the commerce in clothes, threequarters of the firms engaged in this Industry would fail within two years. It is a happy piece of news to report in support of this outlined sentiment that the shipments of costumes from France which will take place this fall will be as heavy as in normal times. The number of buyers "who have gone abroad has been reduced, on account of volunteering, conscription and changes, therefore, in the personnel of many business houses, but the resident buyers and the Important representatives for groups of houses have been able to transact the expected business.

Where America Comes In. So much for Paris. But, with all that she will do, the war places an important task on American women. Never before in the history of commerce in clothes has this especial demand been made upon them. It Is this: they must work out their own salvation. Our heads of shops and dressmaking houses are far from being aids to the dumb. They must sell what they have bought and made and they have rarely studied the needs of the Individual. The buyers who went to Paris in other days haunted the fashionable places where the women of pleasure and power foregathered. These women made and marred the fashions put out by the designers. When our buyers saw that these leaders were featuring certain fashions they brought them home for the American. But, and this is the new situation, the women here are now confronted with the fact that thousands of new costumes will soon be unpacked from the boxes that brought them over the ocean, and as they were chosen from whatever the French houses had to offer, it will be our part to select from that heterogeneous mass that which brings out our special type and suits our environment This Is sane and sensible wartime adjustment of one’s times and income, and possibly the lesson may be so thoroughly learned and digested that it will prove to be a lasting benefit to the national community. Make a Study of Clothes. It Is not a waste of time to be fully aware of the kind of costumery that you should adopt The comprehensive adjustment between your type and your clothing will save money, nerves and regrets. The time will soon be upon us when we can become the arbiters of our own sartorial fate. The war in France has abolished leadership in certain fashions by their acceptance hi the highest circles of power; Uhd, with our dressmakers and shops somewhat puzzled as to what will lead and what will not, we have the best chance of our career to suit ourselves. This will be really the millennium In dress. Paris, the center of art in the world. Creates from a point in air, as the engineers say, and from the mass of material she sends we choose a thousand different types of costumes If we wish. fx>ok a bit into the history of each costume, as Paris does, and say to yourself. Does my face and, figure, iny physical and mortal individuality reflect that period? If the an-

This evening gown has a separate bodice. The skirt is of cyclamen tulle, accordion pleated, with garland of embroidery and formal bouquets. The bodice and sash are of black satin.

swer is in the negative, don’t let any one persuade you to buy it. When the ships that dodge the man made sharks of the sea bring to ui these cases of silks, brocades, metals embroideries and velvets fashioned for the American woman, we will see that these clothes are the heirs to all the ages. China will dominate some bits of costumery, ' the Influence of Napoleon will be there, the Russian Cossacks who threw themselves before the retreating Eleventh army In Galicia will be another motive for certain cut and color, and the recent- exhibition of French clothes in Madrid is reflected in the things that were brought out of Spain. Not only will different countries be represented in the medley of costumery that is coming to us. but various epochs In the history of places, especially of France —the First Empire, the Consulate, the swirling and transparent draperies made famous by Mme. Talllen, the Queen of Shreds and Patches, as she was nicknamed, the biblike panels of embroidery worn by the (queen of Roumania when she arrayed' herself In the native costumes. The polonaise will be revived from that day when the predecessor of Rose Berttln, who gowned Marie Antoinette, made fashionable the striking garment worn by the Polish princess, Marie, whom Louis XV made queen of France. Those Chinese wraps and sleeves and tassels worn by the noblemen who represented Pekin as the first embassy sent from China to France are recalled into the new fashions because China is with France and is fighting, as she fought, to be a republic. Rakish Continental Hat. The green coque feathers flaunting from new hats have been borrowed from the hats of the sharpshooters, the berspglieri of Italy, because the fighters of the Vosges and the Alpine passes have a comradeship. The rakish continental hat was Included in the fashions because the land of that George Washington whom General La-' fayette came to assist is spreading her soldiers over the pleasant valleys of the sister republic and sending her huge guns to protect the Road of Ladies as all gentlemen, good and true, should do. The pinched-ln crown and the rollicking brim have been Included in the most fashionable hats because these

soldiers have been smiled at and, some say, kissed by the midlnettes as they strolled the boulevards at noon hour. Why try to outline the conglomeration of episodes that are reflected in these autumn clothes that we will soon be asked to buy and mold to our individuality? France has put the passing panorama of the planet into costurnery. If we adopt it all, we shall look like a procession of the ages staged by gome Gargantuan stage director. It Is our part in this procession that is of vital importance. It Is necessary that each woman should face" the situation with some knowledge, much discernment and an inclination to express herself. : ■■■ ; (Copyright, 191", by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

One of the new autumn suits In green velour with turned-up hem on coat and wide girdle forming sash in front.