Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 191, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 29 August 1917 — GOWNS REFLECT U. S. UNIFORMS [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GOWNS REFLECT U. S. UNIFORMS

New York.—lt is the most natural thing in the world that the buoyancy, optimism and remarkable rise in commerce •which have been brought about in Paris by the men who wear our khaki should be reflected in the costurnery which the French designers are offering to the American buyers. It is not overdone, so we hear. There were enough American buyers in Paris during the spring to forewarn The French designers against making clothes that incorporate military features with which the American woman is overfamiliar. What is‘a surprise to the French is an old, old story to us. They know nothing of the cowboy hat, the claytblored flannel shirt rolling open in front, the military jacket buttoned to the elfin and the West Point overcoat, but we have known these from the beginning, and we have not worn them because they were part of the soil. Paris, however, will reflect in her new costumes just enough of our military uniforms to make them interesting to us. Her only market today comprises the two Americas and a segment of England, and it.is said that she has combined the Spanish and the North American effect in her clothes, with only a dash of Russian. There will be an undoubted Spanish influence this season. The reason for this is not political, although Brazil and Argentine have filled the French dressmaking houses for decades with their wealthiest customers. Their sympathy today is very dear to Paris, and whatever is dear to Paris comes Xjut in her clothes. The Exhibition in Madrid.' The real reason, however, behind the Spanish influence, is the warm welcome that Madrid gave to an early exhibition of Paris clothes. Paul Poiret was there directing and suggesting, and all the other Important dressmakers exhibited in this important neutral country. Poiret, Worth and Lanvin have been urging Spanish costumery for two years, and this exhibition in Madrid clinched the situation. In exactly what manner the Spanish costumery of several centuries will be reflected in the new, French clothes, we’re not yet quite sure, but the immense ruffs and elongated cuffs of white organdie and muslin which have appeared on new bodices Indicate that the portraits of Philip the Fourth and his contemporaries have already given Inspiration. A Touch of Chinese. Whenever we think of the Chinese silhouette we begin first with the tight-

ened hips, then go on to the narrow hem and the slim but loose line above the waist. Now, this is the silhouette which France has launched. A few of the great designers sent word that the new idea of the silhouette is taken from the Chinese, but others say it is a return *to the far East. It is, however, more Chinese than eastern in th# fact that the hem is straight, round and narrow. The ordinary Chinese features In dress have been seen in America for a year, and this continent is In a receptive mood to receive the Chinese silhouette. Anyone who does not realize how Peking has Influenced New Yolk should go to the theaters, where Chinese girls in native costume serve as ushers, and where one act is sure to be devoted to a Chinese episode. One of the best-known model houses has its entire salon done in faint blues and grays,mstrffie visitors arp received by a small girl in the brilliant Chinese costume that one sees on a piece of lacquer. If one determines the silhouette for the season, all other things come more easily, and if one 'will just remember that France has »Qt her seal upon the narrow skirt with Its tight hem in '• regular line, the loose bodice, the tightened effect at the hips

Here is a new fall suit from France. It is a three-piece suit of smoke-col-ored albatross trimmed with silk and wool braid in bright blue and a bit Of cherry. Cerise and blue buttons.

and the sleeves wide at the wrist, one will get a distinct impression o's the foundation stone of the new fashions. The Introduction of yellow, the mingling of red and black in the queer tones that are used-fin Chinese lacquer, will be seen frequently in the autumn costumery. Fabrics France Uses. It seems clear from the cables that have come across the watfer. that duvetyn will be revived in an especially forceful manner. The weavers have made it more durable and less liable to outside impressions. This is well, for, no woman can quite forgive even the loveliest fabric for showing the mark of every hard object she touches. Gaberdine will remain in fashion. Georgette crepe will have an unusual

degree of success. Brocade, In the “metallic flowered design to which we are- quite accustomed, will- be used for evening capes as a relief .from velvet and lavishly heaped with peltry. That brilliant Egyptian blue so well beloved by artists is shown in evening wraps of brocatle with flowers of silver. Three dominating shades of dark blue are used for street and afternoon frocks. The house of Doeuillet makes an especial point of using one or all of these' shades in the majority of his costumes. Beige, which we have Worn In an uncounted number of gowns, is offered for the early autumn, although it is doubtful whether it will remain in fashion during the cold weather. It is introduced for evening, which is a novelty, when It Is draped with' golden brown tulle and trimmed with gold braid and embroidery. The deep red shades will be as dominant as dark blue, to judge from the first expression in clothes at the Ihris exhibitions. The American public has always liked garnet, claret, magenta and terracotta, although the latter cannot be included In the dark red list. Its popularity, however, is assured. All the French dressmakers have put a bit of it into their costumes and there are street suits of it touched with black.

New Shade of Red. There is a shade of red called Indian, which France is offering as something unusual and lovely. Lanvin has a gown in it. The material Is georgette and- the combined color is beige. There is a slip of the Indian red, and over this a medieval chemise without sleeves, accordian plaited, and held in by a loose belt covered with a design which is familiar .to those who are stopped at every station in the far West by Indians offering their wares. There is a division among the embroiderers in France. Some cling to the floriated designs which have run through French history like the French language. Others take up the primitive Indian designs and use them boldly and effectively. They have searched through the documents of the Indian races of all countries for their patterns. There is a striking similar! ty which it would be up to Prof. Henry Fairfield Osborne to explain, between all Indian designing, ancient and modern. (Copyright, 1917, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

This is a chemise frock in odd coloring. The tunic is of white chiffon figured with mauve, and the sash is of mauve ribbon. Underdress of seal brown satin with white lace yoke.