Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 186, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 23 August 1917 — FLARE ABSENT IN FALL SILHOUETTE [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FLARE ABSENT IN FALL SILHOUETTE

Lines Will Fall Straight From Shoulder to Heel in the New Models. SKIRTS TO BE VERY NARROW House and Evening Gowns Will Touch the Floor—High Collar to Replace the Low One Now Worn. ■— '■ V ' ■ “ New York. —What the next few weeks holds for us in the way of fashions, not more than two dozen people in the world know. These are the French designers, who guard their secrets carefully and establish around

their workrooms a detective force that has much in common with the French police system. Women who wanted to sketch gowns that were to be shown to the public in a few days have been caught and locked up in a dark room in one of the houses as though they were common criminals caught in the act. All the processes of the French law, and they are severe and terrorizing to the stranger, are called into being to punish an offender who tries to get a deelgn of a gown from a French house without permission. - There are leaks, however, from the great French - workrooms, as well as from our departments in Washington. Somehow, somebody knows the truth. Rumors From Paris. The things that we have been able to find out are interesting. They may prove true. The new silhouette, it is sqid, will be slim and tight just below the waistline, around the hips, and there will be no flare from shoulder to instep. Coats are cut to the hipline and are either bound in with fur or embroidered cloth. There Is no attempt to curve garments in at the waistline. There is no attempt to flatten the fabrics against the figure in order to outline the anatomy beneath. The cloth will hang in a straight line from the shoulder to the girdle at the hips, thereby giving a well-known Oriental silhouette that has come • and gone through the fashions in recurring cycles. Skirts will be exceedingly narrow for walking, and for the evening they will be long and in flowing lines that do not flare, but cling to the figure In the fashion of the Orient.

House gowns and evening gowns will touch the floor and cover the toes in front, swirling out into greater length at the back. The high collar, .it is said, will replace the low one. ’Mie decolletage that is expected is the straight, Italian line of the fifteenth century, used in men’s costumery as well as women’s. In opposition to this is the high, straight collar that does not fit under the chin, thereby causing an ugly roll of flesh, but flares upward and outward. It is the collar that Sarah Bernhardt made famous more than a quarter of a century ago. These collars are shown on shirtwaists and one the bodices of formal and informal frocks. The immense handkerchief collar of the Revolution will be put on coats, so rumor says, and the deep, delta decolletage adopted in the American Revolution will be used on dinner and restaurant gowns. Plentiful Use of Fur. No cable from Paris excludes the word fur. If one can judge by these forerunners of what is to happen, such as rumors, personal letters and cables, the animal world will be sacrificed to clothe women. No one can tellwhere all the skins come from, but it is skid that in Paris every designer Is lavishing fur on costumery as though it were as plentiful as grass. The few coat suits that will be shown, so the cables say, will be half fur and half cloth. Entire short coats of fur bound around the hips in the new way will be offered with knifeplaited or box-plaited skirts of cloth or velvet One-piece gowns will have old-fash-ioned dolmans pf fur fitted across the front by broad straps that wrap around the waist Capes of fur lined with velvet or satin will have deep waistcoats in front that hold them securely to the

figure, and the skirt beneath will be plain or plaited. It is definitely said that the extension at the sides of skirts which goes under the name of umbrella drapery will be abolished. What is known as the melon skirt, or jupe tonneau, will be dismissed a? worthless. The exclusive dressmakers with keen vision, who persuaded their patrons to buy flat, Egyptian skirts, plaited from waist to hem, should now receive a letter of gratitude, because, it is said, these Alexandrian garments will remain at the height of fashion and whatever has a bulge in it will be out of the picture. V. ■ ■- Witt -Brocades Be A fashion reporter who was at the remarkably successful fabric exposition recently held in Lyons, France, gives a bit of most interesting news concerning the introduction of brocade. It is this: That the most exquisite brocade with an unusual design has already been made at Lyons for Mme. Poincaire, the wife of the president of the French republic, to be worn when peace is declared. This brocade is closely guarded and its design is not allowed to be copied. Whatever celebration France expects to have when peace is declared will be the circumstance that will unlock the case where this brocade is kept. Mme. Poincaire will receive it as a gift from Lyons, and some great dressmaker wilL prepar eiL This piece of cloth is not the only evidence of what the manufacturers of Lyons believe to be possibly near. Literally, a half mile or so of gold and silver brocade has been wovea and is now held in reserve for the celebration of peace. This weaving represents the very highest pinnacle of the craftsmanship of the master weavers of Lyons. It Is said in exclusive circles that the purchase of all of this brocade has been arranged for by dressmakers and individuals of power and prestige in Paris. Another new silk which was shown at Lyons and which is said to be very beautiful is called La Solell de la Vic? tolre. It is so eminently French for its workers to reflect their hopes, their sacrifices and their faith in terms of fabrics and women’s clothes! Fashions That Follow the Army. It is no longer considered in good taste to wear anything that resembles the American flag. That unfortunate episode in our national costumery has passed by. It is in gbod taste to wear a dark blue coat and line it with red; a blue and white striped awning skirt may carry a red sweater above it; but the hawking about of the national colors in the very moment when they are to be baptized by the blood of thousands who are fighting for an ideal, and by the willing sacrifices of women who are pushing their men forward on the path of that idealism, is too vulgar to be permissible. —— There are other fashions, however, that follow the army, that have nothing to do with the colors. The coat

suit, for instance, that has a Wesi Point ’Skirt and an Annapolis jacket fastened with brass buttons patterned after those of the English admiralty, is an acceptable and bit of fashion. The white duck tam-o’-shanters patterned after those worn by the men of the navy; the dark blue flannel middy blouses laced with white cord and finished with white and blue pique collars have nothing objectionable about them. (Copyright, 1317, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

This new type of sport coat Is of white Jersey cloth trimmed with bands of black and white plaid jersey. The buttons are black, so is the sleeve lining.

Here is a pretty redingote In plaid. It is made of fine voile in gray, with crossbars of cerise and white. It is worn over an accordion plaited skirt of plain gray voile. Revers and chemisette of white voile trimmed with cerise.