Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 181, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 August 1917 — WOMEN ORIGINATE SOME NEW STYLES [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WOMEN ORIGINATE SOME NEW STYLES

New York.—Life and war and, clothes and psychology make a curious mixture this midsummer. To analyse,, to philosophise, to play with grouped masses of people, to watch the sunlight and shadow of social existence as it goes on Ip America today, are great temptations. To stick to the straight and narrow path of clothes, and clothes only, Is difficult. There is no lack of a certain kind of frivolity this summer. We shall all go on a path of moderate amusement until the war becomes too stupendous and is too full of terror for us to laugh. Let us each pray to God that that will never happen! ~ America is a bit too stupendous a segment of the earth’s surface to feel a foreign war acutely. She may pour out her men, her sympathy, her money, and co-operate in every way that her ingenuity and resources allow in the struggle toward peace, but, without an invading army, with her colossal Industries undisturbed, with her wealth and climate, and with the great mass of unrelated people of all nationalities, it is not possible for her to take the war as France takes it. As long as there Is money, a chance to wear good clothes, and no reasons against doing it, there will be fashions in plenty. individuality Is Shown. Individualism has suddenly raised its head above uniformity. The reason is simple. The early French models which dominated fashions, were sold out in a hysterical wave of bargains early in the spring. Nothing has taken their place. Our designers have not risen to the occasion in a mass, as many of the clothes critics in America thought they would, if given a chance. You know, there has been a strong propaganda for a half dozen years in regard to the wholesale use of our designers to be dominant creators, if given an opportunity by the public. Well, they have had the opportunity in America, and, except in rare cases, they have not shown any desire to take advantage of it On the other hand, the American women have shown some - extraordinary good work in origination. Now, this is just where the reform, as the critics of French clothes call it should start. Paris has depended on its well-dressed women to lead the way in clothes for three centuries. America has depended on its shops

and dressmakers ~ over here to lead the way with French models. There is a vast gulf of difference between the two procedures. Women and Experiments. There is no doubt of the fact that women who are experts in the art of dressing and choosing clothes have done some excellent work this , summer in branching out on successful experiments. There maj’ have been some tailor or artistic dressmaker behind their efforts. Where ver the; costume was complete in its daring and shewed the hand of a master-worker, It was undoubtedly made at a good establishment, but the suggestion surely emanated from the brain of the possessor. . ' - , - Much that was traditional was thrown to the winds. The extraordinary influx of cotton fabrics in the dty streets is a point of importance. The combination of a sand skirt with a dark, green velveteen jacket trimmed with silver buttons, is a phantasy that was brought out by some ■mart wdman in this country. The fashion of wearing broadbrimmed, straw sailor hats in black or tan, with changing scarfs wrapped about the crown, was started at fashionable country dubs and has won out The use of a white linen coat cut after the manner of. a» riding habit Md worn over a short, plain, black

Velveteen skirt, was the idea of a young matron who usually has her own way in clothes and who conseguentfy attracts attention to herself and has many followers. The introduction of the jerkin of Robin Hood's day, made tn colored leather, belted with the material, and fastened with a great silver medieval buckle, was advanced .on the golf fields of this country and has become a far more fashionable garment than the sweater. Another experiment of the American women, which could not have its source in Paris, is the universal use of immense garden hats trimmed with brilliantly colored flowers, as a part of city apparel. The American world is quite used to the great hat of straw in country gardens, on beaches and on the benches of athletic fields, but this is t?he first summer that women in great centers of activity have worn the so-called country hats on the street, to the restaurants, and for all manner of social life.

New Kinds of Waistcoats. Another individuality which has been brought out, is the waistcoat of checked silk or cotton with a round, .yoke collar of itself, also a cravat finished in a sailors loop with two ends. Time was when we always considered it necessary to wear an entire shirtwaist under a coat. Today, since good taste demands that we do not sit In public in our shirtsleeves, the neckwear people have reaped a harvest through the various kinds of sleeveless bodices which they have intended to go under a coat as a substitute for a blouse. Organdie, chiffon and white muslin in various weaves are conventional fabrics to use for these fronts that allow the coat to be unbuttoned, if not removed. But the new note is the departure from the white to the checked fabrics. A new colored jersey suit carries a waistcoat made of heliotrope and white checked taffeta. A dark blue serge carries a waistcoat of blue and white checked gingham. A natural colored pongee coat suit has a front of geranium red and yellow checks. Black and white gingham or taffeta is used for the full waistcoat of an oyster white Japanese silk suit. These little garments are really sleeveless blouses; they’re not even first cousins to the long, tight-fitting,. Louis XVI waistcoat which the French have put into the topcoats and circular capes for motoring. They are at-

tached to an elastic band that goes around the w.aist and are fastened up the front with pearl or colored buttons. One can wear a white turnover collar, but the smart thing is to keep the colini' of the fabric. (Copyright, 1917, by the McClure Newspae per Syndicate.)

Here are three pretty garments that make an appeal to women. First Is a riding coat for the street. It is of heavy homespun linen, made with slightly flaring sides. It is worn over a narrow, plain skirt of black velveteen. Next is a pongee frock with orange stitching. This is laid in small - pi* its held down with rows of hemstitch in g. The ban ds are bright o raJtge linen, and the buttons match in color. A sleeveless coat of green Vnen comes last. It is made like a medieval Jerkin and is worn over a frock of rose-colored linen with white collar and cuffs. Skirt is embroidered in bold design in Roumanian colors.