Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 181, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 August 1917 — Page 2

WOMEN ORIGINATE SOME NEW STYLES

New York.—Life and war and, clothes and psychology make a curious mixture this midsummer. To analyse,, to philosophise, to play with grouped masses of people, to watch the sunlight and shadow of social existence as it goes on Ip America today, are great temptations. To stick to the straight and narrow path of clothes, and clothes only, Is difficult. There is no lack of a certain kind of frivolity this summer. We shall all go on a path of moderate amusement until the war becomes too stupendous and is too full of terror for us to laugh. Let us each pray to God that that will never happen! ~ America is a bit too stupendous a segment of the earth’s surface to feel a foreign war acutely. She may pour out her men, her sympathy, her money, and co-operate in every way that her ingenuity and resources allow in the struggle toward peace, but, without an invading army, with her colossal Industries undisturbed, with her wealth and climate, and with the great mass of unrelated people of all nationalities, it is not possible for her to take the war as France takes it. As long as there Is money, a chance to wear good clothes, and no reasons against doing it, there will be fashions in plenty. individuality Is Shown. Individualism has suddenly raised its head above uniformity. The reason is simple. The early French models which dominated fashions, were sold out in a hysterical wave of bargains early in the spring. Nothing has taken their place. Our designers have not risen to the occasion in a mass, as many of the clothes critics in America thought they would, if given a chance. You know, there has been a strong propaganda for a half dozen years in regard to the wholesale use of our designers to be dominant creators, if given an opportunity by the public. Well, they have had the opportunity in America, and, except in rare cases, they have not shown any desire to take advantage of it On the other hand, the American women have shown some - extraordinary good work in origination. Now, this is just where the reform, as the critics of French clothes call it should start. Paris has depended on its well-dressed women to lead the way in clothes for three centuries. America has depended on its shops

Here are three pretty garments that make an appeal to women. First Is a riding coat for the street. It is of heavy homespun linen, made with slightly flaring sides. It is worn over a narrow, plain skirt of black velveteen. Next is a pongee frock with orange stitching. This is laid in small - pi* its held down with rows of hemstitch in g. The ban ds are bright o raJtge linen, and the buttons match in color. A sleeveless coat of green Vnen comes last. It is made like a medieval Jerkin and is worn over a frock of rose-colored linen with white collar and cuffs. Skirt is embroidered in bold design in Roumanian colors.

and dressmakers ~ over here to lead the way with French models. There is a vast gulf of difference between the two procedures. Women and Experiments. There is no doubt of the fact that women who are experts in the art of dressing and choosing clothes have done some excellent work this , summer in branching out on successful experiments. There maj’ have been some tailor or artistic dressmaker behind their efforts. Where ver the; costume was complete in its daring and shewed the hand of a master-worker, It was undoubtedly made at a good establishment, but the suggestion surely emanated from the brain of the possessor. . ' - , - Much that was traditional was thrown to the winds. The extraordinary influx of cotton fabrics in the dty streets is a point of importance. The combination of a sand skirt with a dark, green velveteen jacket trimmed with silver buttons, is a phantasy that was brought out by some ■mart wdman in this country. The fashion of wearing broadbrimmed, straw sailor hats in black or tan, with changing scarfs wrapped about the crown, was started at fashionable country dubs and has won out The use of a white linen coat cut after the manner of. a» riding habit Md worn over a short, plain, black

Velveteen skirt, was the idea of a young matron who usually has her own way in clothes and who conseguentfy attracts attention to herself and has many followers. The introduction of the jerkin of Robin Hood's day, made tn colored leather, belted with the material, and fastened with a great silver medieval buckle, was advanced .on the golf fields of this country and has become a far more fashionable garment than the sweater. Another experiment of the American women, which could not have its source in Paris, is the universal use of immense garden hats trimmed with brilliantly colored flowers, as a part of city apparel. The American world is quite used to the great hat of straw in country gardens, on beaches and on the benches of athletic fields, but this is t?he first summer that women in great centers of activity have worn the so-called country hats on the street, to the restaurants, and for all manner of social life.

New Kinds of Waistcoats. Another individuality which has been brought out, is the waistcoat of checked silk or cotton with a round, .yoke collar of itself, also a cravat finished in a sailors loop with two ends. Time was when we always considered it necessary to wear an entire shirtwaist under a coat. Today, since good taste demands that we do not sit In public in our shirtsleeves, the neckwear people have reaped a harvest through the various kinds of sleeveless bodices which they have intended to go under a coat as a substitute for a blouse. Organdie, chiffon and white muslin in various weaves are conventional fabrics to use for these fronts that allow the coat to be unbuttoned, if not removed. But the new note is the departure from the white to the checked fabrics. A new colored jersey suit carries a waistcoat made of heliotrope and white checked taffeta. A dark blue serge carries a waistcoat of blue and white checked gingham. A natural colored pongee coat suit has a front of geranium red and yellow checks. Black and white gingham or taffeta is used for the full waistcoat of an oyster white Japanese silk suit. These little garments are really sleeveless blouses; they’re not even first cousins to the long, tight-fitting,. Louis XVI waistcoat which the French have put into the topcoats and circular capes for motoring. They are at-

tached to an elastic band that goes around the w.aist and are fastened up the front with pearl or colored buttons. One can wear a white turnover collar, but the smart thing is to keep the colini' of the fabric. (Copyright, 1917, by the McClure Newspae per Syndicate.)

BEAUTY HINTS

One ought to make a habit of rinsing the mouth with a good mouth wash one or more times a day. This will keep the gums in a hesftthy condition and sweeten the breath. . u.:. ’ The eyes are of such prime Importance that it is strange more attention is not-given to-them. A bath x>f tepid water given through the eyeglass will tend to freshen and strengthen them wonderfully after a hard day’s wotk. If the eyes become Inflamed there are several soothing remedies which may be easily made and will help reduce the inflammation.

Striped Dance Frocks.

Bayadere stripes will be the thing for light dancing frocks next season. They will be made for the younger women and glrlst of the jardlnere silks, pretty flowered stripes combined with different colors, pinks, greens, soft corn color, grays and blues, and always made with the stripe across. _

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER, IND.

MAJOR MANAGERS MISS OLD ASSISTANTS

While Fred Mitchell was assistant to George Stallings the Braves won one pennant, finished second once, third once and fifth. Now, In 1917, without the services of Mitchell, the Braves are floundering aroujid, while the Cub team, which Mitchell is leading, is breezing along in fine shape. When Wilbur Robinson was acting as lieutenant for John McGraw the Giants won three pennants and finished second on another occasion. Then Wilbur went to the Robins, whereupon the Giants finished second in 1914, last in 1915 and fifth In 1916. Meanwhile the Robinson crowd over In Brooklyn finished fifth in 1914, third In 1915 and won a pennant in 1916. How* much credit was given unduly to Stallings and McGraw and how much shoulcHiave been given to Robinson and Mitchell, the “men behind?’

LESSON IN TRAVELING LAWS

Harry Heilman, Tigers’ Outfielder, Not Likely to Leave Pullman to Eat In Future. Harry Heilman, Tiger outfielder, had an experience recently which will stick with him for a while and which will keep him glued to his seat in the Pullman when traveling about the country. The Tigers were going frojp Boston to Balitmore to play a Sunday exhibi-

Harry Heilman.

ilon game. The train hesitated at New London, Conn., and Heilman jumped off to get-some sandwiches, running out of the Pullman car without coat and hht? While he was purchasing the grub the whistle blew and off went the rattler mifius Hellman. Harry had the change from a fivespot and a couple of sandwiches to last until he could catch up with his ball club, and when he reported, wearing a coat and hat he had bought from a pawnbroker, he came in for a kidding that got his goat—-hoofs, horns, whiskers and all. . ’

LAY-OFF WILL HELP MINORS

Suspension of Schedules Is Probably Best Thing That Could Have Happened to Them. . The suspension of schedules by a number of the minor leagues is probably the best thing that’ could have happened for them under existing conditions. Population In the minor —league cities is comparatively small if you count the baseball fans alone, and in war time the tendency to conserve finances is greater in the small cities and towns than in cities of the first class. In addition to this, the baseball population in the larger cities is large enough to keep a ball club running at a small profit. • For the lack of this the minor league nfttgnate is always up against It when times become panicky, and without baseball for the remainder of 1917 and probably throughput the, season of 1918, if the war continues, the minor league fans will have time to recover their balance and will be baseball hungry when the parks are opened once fiore.

BASEBALL STORIES

Clark Griffith thinks that Howard Shanks will make a great shortstop. Ty Cobb, Detroit outfielder, has on two occasions made five hits in a game. • « • Joe Woods says he will not draw n cent of salary until he pitches for the Indians. • • ♦ Beals Becker had hit safely In 22 straight games when Jake Northrup stopped his run. . ♦ • * - ■ Hans Lobert is doing a lot of complaining at present because of his tough luck as pinch hitter. • • • Old Doc Crandall has been pitching some great ball for Los Angeles, as his string of victories testifies. * * * The Louisville club has ended its search for an outfielder by landing Claude Cooper from the Phillies. • • • President Phil Ball of the Browns has given checks of SIOO each to Ernie Koob and Bob Groom, his no-hit pitchers. • * ♦ Second Baseman Pitler of the Pirates has made a hit with Smokeville fans. He is batting and fielding cleverly. Many persons have been named to succeed Clarence Rowland as manager of the White Sox, but he still saws wood. .

** * . Lee Magee Is back in the game after one of the worst cases of batting slump that baa affected an athlete in many a. long day. ‘ ♦ ' ♦ ♦ The fact that Ty Cobb has quit playing golf for the summer may have something to do with his remarkable winning streak. ** ♦ ~ Matty Mclntyre, former Detroit star and late manager of the Mobile team, Is now playing ball with a team in a Detroit factory league. * * * Happy Felsch, who is playing center field for the White Sox, has developed into a high-class player. He is one of Rowland’s best hitters. . <3* * * ♦ Third Baseman Baird is making good with the Cardinals. He couldn’t -hit when he played with the Pirates, but now he Is killing the ball. Pitcher Earl Hatnilton of the Browns got away to a poor start this season. He has failed to come home a winner in fourteen starts. ♦ * * Miller Huggins has been cleaning house and trimming his sails to make room for a lot of new players who are to be taken on this fall. / . * * * •Chick Gandil is playing first base so cleverly for |he White Sox that the * sharps still wonder why the Washingtons and Clevelailds let him go. * • • Pretty soon it will become popular to Introduce Harry Coveleskie as a brother of Stanley Coveleskie. The Cleveland slabster has all the better of his southpaw brother on records to date, and is the big figure of the family on present rating. e . .. ,

YANKEES ARE FEARED

Manager of White Sox Says They Are Most Formidable Team. [ 4 Young and Peppery Team Representing New York Will Cause Leaders More Trouble Than Any of Others In Pennant Race. Clarence Rowland declares the New York Yankees appear to him to be the most .formidable team the American league holds—aside from the White Sox. He believes that if his team gets away to a league champloriship this year It will be done with the Yankees trailing them into the home stretch. Strangely, Rowland does not count the Red Sox formidable in the least. The early season ride they had at the top of the American league, he holds, was merely a flash. He shares the opinion of other managers in the American league in declaring that when double-headers begin to tear into the Red Sox the pitching staff of the Hub representatives will begin to falter* The loss of Bill Carrigan is also going to have an effect, Rowland believes, and he declares a change in ownership can’t possibly have improved the team’s chances. Carrigan, he maintains, while not the best catcher in the world, was the one man who coulcT get sterling results out of Dutch Leonard’s work and do it consistently. He has plenty of praise for Jack Barry as a but inclines to the belief that a baseball club,at its best always must have associatlons with its manager several years as a manager before things can run exactly right. The team that represents New York in the American league, young and peppy, Rowland declares, will cause more trouble than any of the others. Bill Donovan’s young pitchers, mixed in with plenty of excellent veterans, added to the fire and spirit of a young outfield and infield, is going to get results. The hitting of Frank Baker and Wally Pipp, he points out, is exceeded by only a few clubs and will cause the loss of more than one ball game for the opposition clubs.

BACKSTOP BREAKS HIS LEG

Accident to Lou McCarty of Giants May Put Him Out of Game for th© Balance of Season. In the game of June 7 Catcher LoU McCarty of the Giants, sliding back to first base in»the fourth inning, broke a bone in his right leg. It is feared he will be out for the rest of the season.

Lou McCarty.

McGraw has Rariden, Gibson and Kreuker to fall back on for backstopping, but none are equal to McCartey, either as a catcher or a hitter, and there is gloom in New York.

BATTERS DON’T START RIGHT

Modern Hitters Do Not Get Away From Plate Fast Enough, Says Billy Keeler, Old-Timer. Billy Keeler, who surely knew something about batting, says that the modern hitters do not get away fast enough from the plate, and seem to lose speed on the way to first. “There were lots of players in my time,” said Billy, “who could beat out any grounder that took more than one hop. Infielders, to get these fellows, had to come in fast, pick up the ball without one hesitating move and send it to first without stopping to take alm. In those days we chopped sharply at the ball and then went to first without stopping to see where the ball was going. Now, the batsmen don’t seem to start as they hit—they hit and then get under way, thus losing the little fraction of time that means everything when you are racing against the Infield.”

CARDINALS ARE UP-TO-DATE

No Longer. Do St. Louie Fans Have t<s Submit to Nuisance of Peddlers— Given Free Score Card.” Cardinal fans will no longer have to submit to having peddlers tread on their toes, obscure their view of the game a*nd spot their clothing with pop and -the drippings of ice-cream cones. The new owners of the St. Louis Nationals have refused to grant park concessions to refreshment purveyors. They have also adopted the free score card idea, first introduced Dy the Athletics some years ago.

WOMEN OF MIDDLE AGE Mrs. Quinn’s Experience Ought to Help You Over the Critical Period. Lowell, Mass.—“ For the last three years I have been troubled with the —Change of Life and II lI IMRmXUI 1116 bad feeling® common at that time. I was in a Wl ve ry nervous condition, with headaches anc i P ain a g IaBBgWW-71 deal of the time so I was unfit to do my Il OawHBM&l work. A friend asked me to try Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound. which I did, and it has helped me in even way. I am not nearly so nervous, no headache or pain. I must say that Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound is th® best remedy any sick woman can take. —Mrs. Margaret Quinn, Rear 259 Worthen St, Lowell, Mass. Other warning symptoms are a sense of suffocation, hot flashes, headaches, backaches, dread of impending evil, timidity, sounds in the ears, palpitation of the heart sparks before the eyes, irregularities, constipation, variable appetite, weakness, inquietude, and dizziness. v If you need special advice, write to the Lydia E. Pinkham Medicine Co. (confidential), Lynn, Mass. DAISY FLY FILLER KSXHXffi all Th es. n eat, ornamental, convenient, ch **P *ll season. Made of metal, can't spill or tip over, will not aoi) or injure anything Guaran teed effective. Sold bp dealers, or 6 sent by eipress prepaid for SI.OO. HAHOU> SOMERS, ISO OR KALB AVI., BROOKLYN. N. V. OLD FALSE TEETH WANTED We pay Bto 115 per Bet tor old false teeth. Doesn't matter If broken. Send by parcel post and recblye «by return mail. Bank reference. Maser. Specialty, 3007 8. Fifth St., Philadelphia, Pa.

Small Sizes of Coal.

It is beyond question that the Increased tonnage of anthracite shipments recorded during the last two months has been largely made up of the junior sizes. This portion of the fuel output is assuming a much larger share in the supplying of what may now rightly be termed the domestic trade. Under modern methods the use of the smaller coals is of much importance in the heating arrangements of the habitations of a large portion of the city populace —quite as much as the use of the sizes scheduled as domestic coal.*lt is fortunate that means have been availed of to utilize this tonnage to good advantage elsewhere than in manufacturing establishments, but the fact remains that with so large an output of the so-called steam sizes the retail dealer in the small places, where, after all, the old-fashioned domestic trade now has its stronghold, is not able to count on the tonnage for his requirements which the tonnage statements of output would seem to imply.-—Coal Trade Journal.

Governed by Impulses.

“Any questions?” asked the instructor of the Second battery of the Ninth division, after the completion of a morning period which the men had spent on horseback at Ft. Harrison, says Indianapolis News. “Captain," asked Ralph Lockwood of Indianapolis, “wouldn’t it be possible to develop artillery horses that would start and stop like automobiles, and would guide with a steering wheel? This horse I have seems to be governed by Impulses over which I have no control.” “Know thyself," says the philosopher. Yes, but who is to introduce us?

Preparing for Tomorrow Many people seem able to drink coffee for a time without apparent harm, but when health disturbance, even though slight, follows coffee’s use, it is wise to investigate. Thousands of homes, where coffee was found to disagree, have changed the family table drink to Instant Postum With improved health, and it usually follows, the change made becomes a permanent one. It pays to prepare for the health of tomorrow. « “There’s a Reason” -7 » .