Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 170, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 4 August 1917 — TWO INFLUENCES SEEN IN CLOTHES [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

TWO INFLUENCES SEEN IN CLOTHES

Medieval and Napoleonic Styles Are Engaged in Struggle for Supremacy. MILITARY IDEA ALSO ENTERS In Any Event Women, Fortunately, Are Not Now Asked to Wear Frills and Flounces, Streaming Ribbons and Roses. ' New York. —The medieval in dress dies hard. The Napoleonic Influence in apparel never really loses its grip. It may be said by the historian of dress that one of these two phases of feminine costuniery is the basis of every fashion that comes and goes. The world of clothes has just experienced a mad revival in medievalism. Women of every weight, age and curve have adopted the gowns of Queen Guinevere and Melisond. Such garments have been cut by the hundred, in block, and they have been worn in all the market places of the civilized world for two years. The splendid, sweeping robes in which Guinevere met Launcelot have served, when modified, to carry Mary Jane to the department store to buy bargain shirtwaists. The swinging sleeves, the loose, jeweled rope girdle and the straight widths of deeply colored velvet worn by Juliet when she went to the somber tombs of the dead have been worn by blue-eyed Miss Flapper, rapturously applauding The Midnight Follies. “What are the uses of history,” the designers, “If not to turn it, into present use?” And so, over and over, the world of apparel greets the rising of the medieval sun, season after season, decade after decade. The medievalism of the day need not reflect the twelfth century of the early Britons. It can go back into the days of the Byzantium and it can reflect the colorful glory of Italy under the birth of the Renaissance. Every page in history suggests a whole field of costumery to the designer who reads it aright. No wonder that we continue to wear the clothes which covered the women of those centuries! The Napoleonic period Is as deeply Impressed on the minds of the designers. There was nothing medieval about French costumery throughout the reign of the superman, but there were so many eccentricities, such a vast variety of beautiful lines and curves, so much glowing narrative and tragic romance attached to the sweep of a skirt and the flow of a sleeve, that the dressmakers get away from those pages of costumery. Napoleonic Again Threatens. Today we are again threatened with the Napoleonic. We are almost sated with medievalism. The Directoire beckons; the First empire allures. The madness of Mme. Tallien will not be repeated today, unless France is suddenly assured of victory, when, if history repeats itself, she may go quite mad again for a short time, through the costumery of her women. In this glow of feeling toward the Napoleonic period we are not even averse to the laced bodice and the

gathered skirt of those “citoyennes” who wrecked the Tuileries and parceled among them the finery of the Austrian. Already the colored cotton bodice laced with cords, Instead of fastened, has come into being. The Liberty cap is being brought out by the milliners in a modern form which is still the symbol of equality and fraternity. The high waistline and the long skirt that droops in a simple line from bust to ankle have been Introduced by powerful designers,, who have usually bad their way in the world of fashion. Broad stripes in taffeta and soft silk are offered for skirts, separate peplum blouses, revers and hats. And so it is. And if an airman were in an airplane above the,fashions of the hour on the battlefields of compmerce, map would show the Na-

poleonic struggling with the medieval. Both have cohorts of strength behind them. Th® Military Influence. Between the medieval and the Napoleonic which still Influence the majority of clothes that are offered this summer, the new military dress is wedged. It forms a salient that is being rapidly strengthened and organized. . .—.—-—— —=—- The first woman who appeared _ln a military outfit at a fashionable restaurant at the noon hour received as much enthusiastic attention as did the young artillery man who stood behind a rapid firing gun mounted in the lobby of the hotel, with a poster asking for subscriptions to the Liberty loan as a background. _____ The woman who wore the military costume had just come off duty and was getting her lunch in as much of a hurry as she could. It amused her very much that a number of people thought she was in fancy dress costume. She wore the khaki of the United States army. Russian leather, low-

heeled shoes, a very short, scant skirt, a khaki regulation military jacket and the regulation cap. • Against the background of filmy chiffon, strings of pearls, picture hats and Oriental garb, she made a delightful picture. She was the essence of simplicity, efficiency and trigness. Within the month the desire for the mll.tary costume has grown so great that one sees all classes of women on errands of war relief in these khaki outfits. Women who have been taking their lessons in ambulance driving, walk through the streets wearing the full, khaki breeches which the uniform prescribes, and over their shoulders is the full, swirling cape of the French ambulance and aviation corps. Greeted With Deference.

Women have long worn riding breeches on the street, covered with a cape or a long top coat, and this new ambulance costume creates less attention in large centers than it would have done a half-dozen years ago; but even now it creates a ripple of interest which is'always attended by approval and admiration. There are no jests, no satirical remarks, no laughter from the men as these uniformed women pass through the ranks of people on the streets. Some of the deference is shown to them that is given to the women with the red cross on • their costumes or the brassard of mercy on their arms. It is a happy fact to remember, when one is separating the segments of fashion for this summer, that the 1840-60-70 fashions for women have not reappeared. They were ugly, futile and costly. Fortunately for us, in this season of embtoglio, we are not asked to wear frills and flounces, streaming ribbons and roses. Medievalism is severe, even if gorgeous at times. The Napoleonic fashions are economical, for they run from what is known as the First Empire through the Grecian drapery and to the Directoire severity. (Copyright, 1317, by the McClure Newspa- ’ per Syndicate.)

This glorified poke bonnet Is made of dahlia red satin, with underbrim of white straw and uncurled plumes of tan color. The blazer is in tan and pale blue stripes. It has Chinese sleeves.

Here is a new uniform for girls in war work. It is made of wool khaki with skirtlike trousers and long jacket The full cape fastens about the neck with a yoke collar. Boots and puttees of Russian leather.