Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 170, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 4 August 1917 — Page 2

TWO INFLUENCES SEEN IN CLOTHES

Medieval and Napoleonic Styles Are Engaged in Struggle for Supremacy. MILITARY IDEA ALSO ENTERS In Any Event Women, Fortunately, Are Not Now Asked to Wear Frills and Flounces, Streaming Ribbons and Roses. ' New York. —The medieval in dress dies hard. The Napoleonic Influence in apparel never really loses its grip. It may be said by the historian of dress that one of these two phases of feminine costuniery is the basis of every fashion that comes and goes. The world of clothes has just experienced a mad revival in medievalism. Women of every weight, age and curve have adopted the gowns of Queen Guinevere and Melisond. Such garments have been cut by the hundred, in block, and they have been worn in all the market places of the civilized world for two years. The splendid, sweeping robes in which Guinevere met Launcelot have served, when modified, to carry Mary Jane to the department store to buy bargain shirtwaists. The swinging sleeves, the loose, jeweled rope girdle and the straight widths of deeply colored velvet worn by Juliet when she went to the somber tombs of the dead have been worn by blue-eyed Miss Flapper, rapturously applauding The Midnight Follies. “What are the uses of history,” the designers, “If not to turn it, into present use?” And so, over and over, the world of apparel greets the rising of the medieval sun, season after season, decade after decade. The medievalism of the day need not reflect the twelfth century of the early Britons. It can go back into the days of the Byzantium and it can reflect the colorful glory of Italy under the birth of the Renaissance. Every page in history suggests a whole field of costumery to the designer who reads it aright. No wonder that we continue to wear the clothes which covered the women of those centuries! The Napoleonic period Is as deeply Impressed on the minds of the designers. There was nothing medieval about French costumery throughout the reign of the superman, but there were so many eccentricities, such a vast variety of beautiful lines and curves, so much glowing narrative and tragic romance attached to the sweep of a skirt and the flow of a sleeve, that the dressmakers get away from those pages of costumery. Napoleonic Again Threatens. Today we are again threatened with the Napoleonic. We are almost sated with medievalism. The Directoire beckons; the First empire allures. The madness of Mme. Tallien will not be repeated today, unless France is suddenly assured of victory, when, if history repeats itself, she may go quite mad again for a short time, through the costumery of her women. In this glow of feeling toward the Napoleonic period we are not even averse to the laced bodice and the

This glorified poke bonnet Is made of dahlia red satin, with underbrim of white straw and uncurled plumes of tan color. The blazer is in tan and pale blue stripes. It has Chinese sleeves.

gathered skirt of those “citoyennes” who wrecked the Tuileries and parceled among them the finery of the Austrian. Already the colored cotton bodice laced with cords, Instead of fastened, has come into being. The Liberty cap is being brought out by the milliners in a modern form which is still the symbol of equality and fraternity. The high waistline and the long skirt that droops in a simple line from bust to ankle have been Introduced by powerful designers,, who have usually bad their way in the world of fashion. Broad stripes in taffeta and soft silk are offered for skirts, separate peplum blouses, revers and hats. And so it is. And if an airman were in an airplane above the,fashions of the hour on the battlefields of compmerce, map would show the Na-

poleonic struggling with the medieval. Both have cohorts of strength behind them. Th® Military Influence. Between the medieval and the Napoleonic which still Influence the majority of clothes that are offered this summer, the new military dress is wedged. It forms a salient that is being rapidly strengthened and organized. . .—.—-—— —=—- The first woman who appeared _ln a military outfit at a fashionable restaurant at the noon hour received as much enthusiastic attention as did the young artillery man who stood behind a rapid firing gun mounted in the lobby of the hotel, with a poster asking for subscriptions to the Liberty loan as a background. _____ The woman who wore the military costume had just come off duty and was getting her lunch in as much of a hurry as she could. It amused her very much that a number of people thought she was in fancy dress costume. She wore the khaki of the United States army. Russian leather, low-

Here is a new uniform for girls in war work. It is made of wool khaki with skirtlike trousers and long jacket The full cape fastens about the neck with a yoke collar. Boots and puttees of Russian leather.

heeled shoes, a very short, scant skirt, a khaki regulation military jacket and the regulation cap. • Against the background of filmy chiffon, strings of pearls, picture hats and Oriental garb, she made a delightful picture. She was the essence of simplicity, efficiency and trigness. Within the month the desire for the mll.tary costume has grown so great that one sees all classes of women on errands of war relief in these khaki outfits. Women who have been taking their lessons in ambulance driving, walk through the streets wearing the full, khaki breeches which the uniform prescribes, and over their shoulders is the full, swirling cape of the French ambulance and aviation corps. Greeted With Deference.

Women have long worn riding breeches on the street, covered with a cape or a long top coat, and this new ambulance costume creates less attention in large centers than it would have done a half-dozen years ago; but even now it creates a ripple of interest which is'always attended by approval and admiration. There are no jests, no satirical remarks, no laughter from the men as these uniformed women pass through the ranks of people on the streets. Some of the deference is shown to them that is given to the women with the red cross on • their costumes or the brassard of mercy on their arms. It is a happy fact to remember, when one is separating the segments of fashion for this summer, that the 1840-60-70 fashions for women have not reappeared. They were ugly, futile and costly. Fortunately for us, in this season of embtoglio, we are not asked to wear frills and flounces, streaming ribbons and roses. Medievalism is severe, even if gorgeous at times. The Napoleonic fashions are economical, for they run from what is known as the First Empire through the Grecian drapery and to the Directoire severity. (Copyright, 1317, by the McClure Newspa- ’ per Syndicate.)

The New Silhouette.

To conform with the government recommendation that all dresses' shall be made very simple, a well-known designer says: *■ “I, personally, believe that the princess dresses with Eton coats will be the favorite models. The stout woman can wear a princess line to the best advantage and the Slim woman looks smart in Eton. With the skirts scant and a little longer, I think that a suggestion of fullness over the hips for the small figure will give style, and still not use much cloth. With the close-fitted dress and coat, an individual touch can be given by a smart flare on the coat, which is finger-tip length. Tailored lines without trimming would not only carry out the wish of the government, but would b« a decidedly new-style feature.”

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER. IND.

FOHL CONSTRUCTS CORKING GOOD TEAM

STARS PLAYING ON CLEVELAND INDIAN CLUB.

Picking up a baseball club torn by dissensions and lacking in discipline, Lee Fohl has succeeded in turning out an American league baseball club that is not only able to hold its own with any of the other clubs, but for a time last season was fl prominent factor in the pennant race, and has been kicking up some dust this year. Nothing to Start With. Fohl had nothing to start with. Joe Jackson had been sold, but Tris Speaker had been purchased to, replace him. His pitching staff was as much of a joke as anything else, with Guy Morton out of the running and the others only desultory winners. His infield was badly cracked, with Ray Chapman badly hampered by a cracked leg. Since Fohl has arrived he has made over the outfield, with Speaker, Roth

DAVIS OLDEST PINCH HITTER

Connie Mack Using Former First Baseman, Especially When Opposing Pitcher Is Southpaw. Harry Davis is forty-four years old, but Connie Mack is going to use him as a pinch-hitter, especially when the opposing pitcher is a lefthander. He all but broke up the afternoon game on Memorial day In the thirteenth inning when he batted for Bill

Harry Davis.

Johnson. Maisel made a wonderful stop and there was a double play instead. There never was anything wrong with Harry’s batting eye. His legs slowed up, and that caused him to quit as a. regular. But he can still judge pitching, and undoubtedly will make his presence felt in pinch roles this season. Davis is one of the finest characters in baseball and has a big following. L i

UMPIRE BYRON IS FAVORITE

Scribes Around National League Circuit Hope Bin Will Mend Hla Ways—Has No Superior. Newspaper men who follow National league games hope Bill Byron will mend his ways, for he is popular for a variety of reasons in spite of his faults. They admit his lack of tact and his chip-on-shoulder attitude, yet generally agree that for keenness, of mind and energy in following plays he has do superior.

and Graney, and has laid aside some youngsters who are perfectly able to take care of themselves when the occasion arises. He has planted Louis Gulsto at first base, and the former Peciflc coast leaguer has all the marks of a comer. Success With Pitchers. Perhaps the best,, success of Fohl has been in his development' of pitchers — Covelskle, Lambeth, Bagby and Gould have all been developed under the tutelage of Fohl. Fohl’s success differs widely from that enjoyed by other big league leaders, in that he has developed most of the stars who cavort on the Cleveland diamond by himself. The men who almost brought a pennant to the sixth city under the leadership of Joe Birmingham have all drifted away.

BASEBALL STORIES

Tris Speaker has started clouting the ball in his last summer’s form. ♦ ♦ » Of late the Cincinnati Reds are not a bit backward about their victories. ♦ » ♦ Bennie Kauff is gradually forging to the front. He is batting at a .340 clip. * * I* The Newark club for the first time in several years is drawing well at home. • * * Nap Lajole is rolling up a big batting average in the International league. • * * Golvln of Mobile and Covington of Little Rock are said to be coming first basemen. *r*~ ? Joe Wood is proving of great value to the Cleveland club as a coach for the pitchers. • • • It is noticeable that John McGraw never starts a fight when the Giants are winning.

Eddie Plank is Experiencing his worst season by far since he came»lnto the majors long ago. •* • . Pitcher George Gaw, who has been with Buffalo for the past three seasons, has been released. * * • John Evers has been living up to his resolution of keeping out of arguments with the umpires. Boston fans are beginning to worry over the Red Sox. Jack Barry is advised to get another pitcher. ♦ * • Hugh Jennings says that his young pitcher. Carroll Jones, is one of the best prospects he ever has seen. * * * Fact that Cleveland hung in first division for such a long time brings to attention that it can’t rain forever. •• * x Joe Tinker is meeting with a lot of success these days in climbing toward the top of the American association list. • • • . .. Accordin’ to statistics from the Browns’ park, the country has been prepared ever since umpires were Invented. „ • • ♦ Probably the weaklings of both leagues would have more success if the first three patters didn’t always sacrifice. •• • . Pitcher Pete Standridge of the Angels seenis to be out of it. He can’t use his arm because of a dislocated elbow and it will have to be put in a cast, according to reports. • „_ .

BENNY KAUFF’S BONER

Falls for Time-Worn Trick Pulled by St. Louis Players. ■ ■» Caught Off Second Base on Two-Base Hit by Holke Who Had Followed Him at Bat—Believed In Honesty ,of Opponents. Benny Kauff entered the realm of the Ivory dome with a play that was easily the feature of a. 3 to 1 contest. In which the Giants went down to defeat. Leon Ames, the ex-New York hurler, outpitched Slim Sallee, former St. Louis boxman, Kauff’s bonehead play came about in the eighth inning. Benny was on first and Holke was at the bat. The hit-and-run game was ordered. Holke did his part by smashing a wicked grounder over third base for a hit that should have been good fol* a double. At the same time Kauff dug out for second. As he was about to slide for the bag Benny heard a warning shout from Miller, the Cardinals’ second baseman: “Grab that.foul fly, Smithy, old boy !” As Miller and Hornsby were both gazing apparently with the most intense Interest skyward, Benny in his Innocent little heart took for granted that Miller meant what he said and was doing. Benny, having the greatest faith in the honest intentions of professional baseball players, imme-

Benny Kauff.

diately put on brakes and then, when he could get started on the back track, scurried like a scared jackrabbit on his return to first. As he neaped that base Holke suddenly loomed up in front of him in a horrible frenzy *>f agitation, waving his arms and yelling, “Go back; go back; you will spoil my two-bagger a’nd I need it.” Beiiny backtracked again, but too late, and he was nabbed, Cruise to Miller to Hornsby, who had also horned in on the base attempt to make Benny look foolish. It was a squelcher for Kauff.

BIG EVENT IN KOOB’S LIFE

Single Made by St. Louie Pitcher In Boston Game Was First Hit as Major Leaguer. On May 23, 1917, Pitcher Ernie KoW of the St. Louis Browns made a hit. It was a single, off Ernie Shore, and it came in the third inning of the game, which would make the time about four o’clock, St. Louis time. These details are given because it is something of an event in Koob’s life. It is, according to the records, his first hit as a major league player. Koob had several bets that he would get U hit before June 1, and those on the losing end are alleging that Shore was in on a plot to collect for Koob and spHt with him.

TWILIGHT BASEBALL IS NEW

Games in Northern League Not Started Until 6:ls—Plan Is Quite Popular With Fans. Twilight baseball has become popular in the Northern league, the FargoMoorhead team being the last to announce that ■ Its games will start at 6:15 o’clock. Winnipeg, Minot, N. jl>., and Warren, Minn., the other members of the league, adopted the plan earlier in the season. If the arrangement proves profitable for Fargo it probably will be continued throughout the season. There is nothing at present to Indicate an abandonment of the league’s schedule before the season closes on September 8, as patronage has been up to the average.

LOOK OVER PEORIA PITCHER

Scouts Watching Performances of James Reynolds, Who Has Won All His Games 3o Far. * " , Major league scouts are watching the performances of James Reynolds, a young pitcher with the Peoria club of the Three-I league, who has not been defeated this season. He won his first eight games in addition to pitching a 12-inning scoreless contest against Rockford. is twentythree years old. and is getting hlk first professional experience with Peoria. Jack Ryan, president of the club, considers him one of the “finds” of the season: Kopp, a youngster of twenty years, also is pitching remarkable ball for Peoria.

MRS. KIESO SICK SEVENMONTHS Restored to Health by Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Componnd. Aurora, Hl.—"For seven long months I suffered from a female trouble, with ■■■ 1 I —-i severe pains in my back and sides until I became so weak X could hardly walk from chair to chair, and got so nervous I would jump at the slightest noise. I was entirely unfit to do my housework, I was giving up hope of ever being well, when my sister asked me to try Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound. I took six bottles and today I am a healthy woman able to do my own housework. I wish every suffering woman would try Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound, and find out for themselves how good it is.’’—Mrs. Carl, A. Kieso, 596 North Ave., Aurora, 111. The great number of unsolicited testimonials on file at the Pinkham Laboratory, many of which are from time to time published by permission, are proof of the value of Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound, in the treatment of female ills. Every ailing woman in the United States is cordially invited to write to tiie Lydia E. Pinkham Medicine Co. (confidential), Lynn, Mass., for special advice. It is free, will bring you health and may save your life.

Frank About It.

“To what do you owe your success, Mr. Wgmpum?” “I hardly know. My friends Say it was an accident and my folks seem to think it was a fluke.”

CUTICURA COMPLEXIONS Are Usqally Remarkably Soft and Clear—Trial Free. Make Cutlcura Soap your every-day toilet Soap, and assist it now and then as needed by touches of Cuticura Ointment to soften, soothe and heal. Nothing better to make the complexion clear, scalp free front dandruff and hands soft and white. Free sample each by mall with Book. Address postcard, Cutlcura, Dept. L, Boston. Sold everywhere.—Adv.

Hush Money.

Miss Eleanor Munro, niece of former Postmaster Bryson, had an interesting experience while acting as a member of the “flying squadron” of the Red Cross, says the Indianapolis News. Miss Munro was -one of a machine load of workers canvassing the rural routes west of the city. At one home on the Maywood road, Miss Munro alighted and seeing several men in the carriage shed back of the house, proceeded in that direction, determine! to make her appeal to the purse holding part Of the family. Soon the other occupants of her machine heard sounds indicating some presumably humorous situation, and soon. Miss Munro emerged from the shed and showed tp her companions a double handful of bills and small change. “Six dollars;” she exclaimed, laughingly, “and how do you suppose I got It? I ran Into a keg of beer and a poker game, and in order to get rid of me posthaste, theygave me everything on the board.”

Popular Hero.

“The farmer is more thought of now.” “You-bet. Instead of putting hayseed in his hair they are preparing laurels for his brow.”

Cardiac Pedestrianism.

Biff—l’d go a great way for a girl like that. Buff—Well, she’ll give you your walking papers all right if you try to win her. —Town Topics.

Instant Postum A table drink that has taken the place of coffee in thousands of American homes. “There’s a' Reason” ?l[ IH3TAHT POSTwiiljl , . : WOKSBH 11 eJSTogp* A Delightful flavor Rich aroma Healthful Economical Sold by grocers everywhere.