Evening Republican, Volume 59, Number 112, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 1 June 1917 — SHOE QUESTION MOMENTOUS ONE [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

SHOE QUESTION MOMENTOUS ONE

Difficulty of Securing High Boots Probably Will Affect Length of Skirts. PARIS ABANDONS NARROW TOE American Women Said to Be Last in Civilized World to Cling to Pinched Vamp and Exaggerated French Heel. New York- —The fashion in shoes has been unusually Important for -three years, but now it has taken on renewed vigor. Women and manufacturers are vitally concerned with what to wear, and how high or low it should be. The recent shipment of shark’s skins to this country to supply the deficiency in leather is Interesting. The manufacturers say that the effect of shoes made out of the man-eaters that threatened and frightened us on the New Jersey coast last summer will be good and that women will not complain that leather is no longer to be easily had, because they will be satisfied with the new things. Cloth is also being substituted. Canvas is readily used with a bit of leather In the way of strapping as a sop to an old tradition that shoes must be of certain hides. Brocade, silk, tussah, cotton are all called to the colors to serve the country in" time of "need Leather shoes are mounting in price, naturally, and yet no disposition on the part of the manufacturers to make any other kind of shoes at a low price. All labor is too high for any material reduction to be possible. The difficulty is to get worker and leather, and dire prophecies are made concerning both if the war continues well into the future.

The French lengthened their skirts for spring and summer to meet the difficulty of procuring high boots, they said, and, therefore, the American woman Is considering well the questions which are put before her by the shoemakers and the dressmakers. The Shoe and the Skirt. There is no separating the two issues, it would seem, for a woman who has been usedto wearing the very short skirt will certainly be hampered if she can no longer find the shoes to meet the situation. If the substitution of other materials than leather does not meet wlth her approval, and she thinks the new kind are ugly, then she will lengthen her frocks and be in the first fashion.

As so many questions were asked concerning the situation, and as it was evident that Paris was the source of both fashions, that is, the lengthened gown and the new types of shoes, I sent there for. the best information to be had, so that women who read could make up their minds as to their own course through expert knowledge. No matter how good our workmanship in shoes in this country, we may have to go to France for ideas, just as in other days France came to us for the short vamp, the Cuban heel,

the reliable sole, the lacing in front. And today France and the United States are working together to, meet the situation created by the deficiency of shoe materials, and Fryqch .skill has created some excellent results. Our long medieval vamp, with its consequent lengthening of the foot and the curious pinching effect at the toes, is roundly rejected by Paris for the sensible reason that her women are walking now, as they have no carriages of automobiles. 4 France claims that the pinched vamp is not for the pedestrian, and she gave up the style that she indulged in for po long and at which Americans laughed; now our American women ate the only ones on the civilized parts

of the planet who Indulge In ft*' medieval toe balanced on an exaggerated French heel. What Paris is doing today and how she has met the difficulties presented is clearly and interestingly told in the story which follows: The last Installment of American shoes for spring arrived during the winter, and the French article cut after the latest throb of the American market is now being placed in the windows here. —— Long Vamp Disappears. It is faithful in all main points to its model, but the long vamp so loved

in France up to a dozen years ago has disappeared, probably forever,.for French women, always wide awake to anything that heightens or detracts from their good points, have learned that the long vamp not only adds inches to the foot, but is uncomfortable unless the shoe be two sizes too large. Every American model that came to Paris a year ago showed the extremely long, narrow shoe, but Paris -bootmakers shortened the vamp when copying it for their trade. The shoe that Is a la mode today and will be for the summer is the half-short vamp with arch under the foot, and the Cuban heel, if a boot, then it will be the black with colored top bordered in the patent leather around the lacings at the top, and the seam at the back will be covered. The top part is of cloth or covert, and the color beige, gray or white. If the shoe is low, it will be of the new kind of patent leather with a long tongue that extends above the instep and posed over the toes will be a wide black buckle —steel, if for afternoon, imitation black enamel if for morning. These two styles are the best, but there are a hundred variations.

For evening the smartest thing is the strapped yellow slipper of brocaded silk (generally yellow and white) or else the slipper is laced across with ribbons, then wound about the leg above the ankle, filet fashion. Some of the best bootmakers show the little old-fashioned slipper, cut low with just one strip over or above the Instep. This is for afternoon and evening wear, for It is equally pretty in black calf and white satin. Over the toes is a tiny chou of satin or leather. This model is extremely simple, in keeping with the new clothes and it will be in fashion for a long time. The toe of all footgear is neither round nor pointed; just n healthful sculptural cut. The heel for evening slippers is high and curved, but half an inch shorter than the original Louis XVI, which means that heels are quite moderate and simple. Paris Gives Up Buttons. It took Parlsiennes a long time to give up their dearly beloved buttoned shoe, but once relinquished they have taken to the laced article with enthusiasm. For elegance they admit the buttoned model is the best, but the other article now appears so feminine to them that it is sure to remain. ~ Frenchwomen of the old school cling to buttons on shoes, and dealers and makers have ceased trying to persuade them that the laced shoe is better than the other. When buttons are used here ttfey are half size and fastidious women who can afford it have the buttons of ent jet. The delicate shades of gray, pink, biscuit and beige for low shoes appear in the windows. The beige and gray will sell well because of their harmonizing tone. The tan and russet; too, look very encouraging, and women will be investing in this shoe on the first bright day. With the russet and tan the heel Is Cuban, and the newest low shoe is rather high over the instep and laced. The tie variety does not appear to be fashionable, though thdre are many women who prefer narrow ribbon to laces in their shoes. All leather is though in many cases this is due to the finish. Gun metal has never taken here, probably because it is hard to keep clean in the constant rain and slush. (Copyright, 1917, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

-STMm frock of voile. The color is chestnut, the skirt is plain, and the bodice is embroidered in small flowers. The belt is of blue velvet ribbon.

In this house gown of blue and silver the satin skirt Is draped with chiffon, with yoke and bodice of silver and blue stripefe beaten flat. Belt of violet velvet. Sleeves of blue chiffon.