Evening Republican, Volume 59, Number 90, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 May 1917 — SILK IS REPLACED BY WOOLEN JERSEY [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

SILK IS REPLACED BY WOOLEN JERSEY

Unimportant Sport Material Changed in Season to Important Standard Fabric. OOATS GIVE WAY TO CAPES Women Are Not Expected to Accept Argument That They Should Show Patriotism by Buying No “■"New Clothes. New York. —Despite the persuasion, pleading and argument of the hundreds of women who have organized themselves for preparedness to the effect that women do not buy any more clothes, but give this money to national defense, the process of arranging new apparel to meet the season goes steadily on.

Surely, the appeal of these women must be based on ignorance of conditions, for they have the welfare of humanity in their hearts or they would not organize into bands for civic help; but to plead that no woman should buy new clothes and that she should frown upon the pegtop and the melon skirt because they are new fashions and demand .the purchasing of new clothes, is to argue in a way that would take the very food out of the mouths of millions of workers. These women argue that we should follow the example of France, England and Germany and that our women should make a sacrifice of clothes in order to show their national spirit. But why? The resources of France, Germany and England were needed for war, which was sprung upon them without any warning and found them unprepared financially. This isn’t a figment of the imagination, but the statement of financiers and of industry. Women Will Buy Clothes. However, it takes very little argument to persuade women that their national spirit should be shown in spending their money on clothes, if they have it to spend. Everybody is benefited all down the line, to the little cash girl six years old in the slums of the city, whose money is needed to give more bread to her family. Therefore, accepting the fact.thaL new fashions will be as popular as ever and that new clothes will spring up afresh as the leaves on the trees and the grass on the ground, it is best to content ourselves with telling what it is wise to buy, rather than arguing for and against buying. A summary of w’hat is accepted may be wise at this time!* To begin with, there never has been a season when so much worsted jersey was worn. The doom of the average skirt and silk sweater was struck when the fashionable season at the winter resorts opened on the first of the new year. The one-piece frock of any material superseded the other two garments in combination. Varieties of separate short coats were worn, made of anything from yel-

vet to stockinet, but the silk sweater was second and third class wherever high fashion was foregathered?-* 1 The number of one-piece frocks in worsted jersey is astonishing. The French designers, aided by the Americans, have produced a wide range of these garments, and they are accepted for the street as well as for the country and also at afternoon teas. When a designer like Gabrielle Chanel takes up horizon blue jersey in an excessively supple and fine weave which resembles the best quality of stockinet, and makes it into a charming -one-piece frock combined with biscuit-colored jersey, then it is natural that women want such clothes. Becomes Standard Material. The dominant thing that has been done this season is to change jersey from an unimportant sport material into an important standard material. It rivals serge and crepe de chine. Strange to say, the silk weave is absent from the French gowns, and

gowns and suits of it are sold, by the American dressmakers at absurdly low prices, as if they knew that its doom was sealed. Beige, biscuit, string color and three tones of gray rule in the one-piece ..wpqlen jersey frocks, but dark blue, ■dull” red 'and horizon blue are coming strongly into favor. These frocks are usually made in one piece, and all the varieties -of drapery and plaiting .and barreling that prevail in the other frocks are used in the jersey. This material has also been introduced into juvenile clothes with marked success. It promises to supersede muslin, silk and linen. Romp-

ers, country clothes and beach suits are made by the hundreds in white, horizon blue, deep pink and gray touched with blue and silver. This is an excellent idea, for the material does not wrinkle, is easily cleaned or washed and does not shrink. It also goes longer without ironing than any other kind of fabric intended for constant service. Another segment of the wheel of fashion in which this woolen jersey has appeared is the long cape gathered , to a slight yoke at the shoulders, with slits at each side for the arms and finished aUthe top with an. immense handkerchief collar that fastens on the left shoulder. These capes are lined with brightly figured Chinese and Japanese silks. The Cape, Not the Coat Another distinct change in fashions is the insistence upon capes instead of topcoats. Mme. Paquin and Mme. Georgette wore these capes in Paris all through the winter and featured them at the spring openings. The house of Cheruit also turned out a goodly number of them, with all the peculiar tricks that belong to this little group of designers. yThe only topcoats that the smart houses offer are for sport use, and they are made of colored velveteen and stockinet jersey in bold, gay designs. For other hours and purposes, the cape is offered instead of the topcoat. It is of serge lined with figured crepe; it is of satin lined with horizon blue or flamingo pink; it is of Chinese blue woolen jersey lined with gray; and it is in gray lined with pink, blue or yellow. A woman will own as many capes at she once owned sweaters. They not only appear as outdoor garments,, but as indoor accessories to house gowns. They are also used for late afternoon and evening wear, indoors, and are of chiffon or Het. They are banded with bright materials in the same color, they are lavishly embroidered with beads, silk floss and bullion threads, and again they are made of chantilly, Spanish or filet lace, unlined and ungirdled. There is no limit set on the usage of figured silk for linings and facings, and the capes offer excellent advantages for this fashion. This trick never had such instant success asXthls season.. (Copyright, 1917. by the McClure Newspa- ' per Syndicate.)

This gown was worn by Mme. Paquin at her opening in Paris, and it gave the final seal of approval to the new silhouette. It is of dark blue taffeta embroidered in Nattier blue. The sleeves are bell-shaped, the hips are distended by drapery, and there is a narrow belt that ties in the back.

This evening gown is of white satin, the skirt embroidered in gold. The pointed bodice is of black velvet with shoulder straps of jet and jet ornament with tassels in front.