Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 51, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 2 March 1917 — USE CUFF HEN ON NEW SKIRTS [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

USE CUFF HEN ON NEW SKIRTS

Parisian Designers of Recent Models Have Introduced a , Novel Feature. —J—i—— EFFECT IS THAT OF FRAME Designs Seen So Far Have Been Charmingly Effective—Many Ways in Which It Can Be Arranged to Get Best Results— Blouses Without Belts. New York. —An actually new feature of fashion which the materials reflect, or possibly instigate, /Is the use of a turned-up hem, culled a cuff hem. at the bottom of skirts, made of brilliant colors or plain fabrics, with an -Egyptian or Aztec design printed on them. There are many kinds of materials for these V <,r,l< ‘ rs - und a woman can frame herself in, as It were, by bordering her skirt, cuffs, collar and waistline. All artists know the value of a. frame. They realize that any arrangement of lines and colors needs a strong outline around it to co-operate its parts into a pleasing whole, and it is the artists who have constantly Impressed upon women that their costumes need some one strong; note going around the figure. At last comes the border; -to da tin s-very thing. - -Yeuyourself know the difference between an unframed and a framed picture. You know what striking character is given to a small design of any kind By taking-a htt”or dindr TaiHU- ti on and putting a line around it. —- trra( , T l v this thing is being: done in fashion. A woman will bn framed in with a sharp line of some dark or brilliant color. It need not be bniatl.; A slender line does tin* work in an effective way. On Shantung, tussor, jersey silk and muslins, there will be a sharp, distinct frame made through a border of the same or another material in marked coloring. ,Where It Is Most Effective. It is more important to put this striking frame around a gown which has designs on it, than around one made of plain fabric. Take, for in-

stance, the new Shantung with the bold, crudely-colored Egyptian figures I on it, and also that new weave of | georgette crepe that the specialists I are putting, out, which has its white ! surface covered with quantities —of small, flying birds in the_ Chinese design, all brilliantly colored ; both these fabrics would make gowns appear fragmentary and unfinished—-sketchy, : as it they did not have a frame of black, dark blue or dull red ! at all the edges' to hold the design together. Flying birds that' have gone through all the art of China, and <piivoring.butt erfires- fl,vrng in flocks; have been taken up by the designers in different ways They are printed on the surface in a remarkable manner, in lines, in circles, and again as fragmentary bits of color. irregularly placed. Even though the house of Callot uses jnateriils with qui vering butterflies in blue, black and yellow floating over the surface, .such a material is not for every woman. One must have many gowns in the wardrobe to take possession of one of this variety, and. before putting money info these expensive fabrics, veil to he Quite sure that the face and figure can carry off so startling a rhotif its flying birds anil butteries. Blouses Minus Sleeves.* The kind of Russian blouse which is kept in fashion for the spring has an exceedingly ornamental belt placed at -the normal waistline. To begin with this lifting of the belt hra change from what we have been wearing. In the medieval styles which have influenced us greatly for the last six months, there has been an omission of the belt, or it has been placed at the hips ; trat the whole tendency Of dress, as we get It from france this month, is toward emphasizing the normal waistline for

the street and the empire waistline for the house. Mind you, the Russian blouse, or any kind of bodice that has an outside peplum, does not carry a belt that confines the material at waistline and into the measurements of the figure; It carries a beltjthat is even in outline but merely lakes in a bit of the fullness at the place where the waistline is arranged on the figure itself. This is an Interesting development in clothes and should not be missed by the woman who watches the small things. No Sleeves to Blouses. Another interesting feature is that -these Russian blouses are without sleeves. This is nothing new, but its accentuation in these late styles shows that we will probably keep to the jumper effect. Even in house gowns 4here are sleevesof fine, Jtea-tinted muslin with Byzantine embroidery at the cutis, and a bit of a yoke, or rather, a line of the same material coming above the oblong flatness of the neckline. These sleeves and this piece at the neck are not detached from the blouse; they are part of it. There are also blouses made of brilliant red Shantung which are cut well out at the armholes, and raiher high at the neck in the medieval line, and show an underpiece of black satin that comes well out Over the hrmholes.. satin encircling the wrist, drop the full peasant sleeves with their vivid embroidery. Revival of Smocking. Since the advent of high priced and artistic evening coats, which are fitted, in at the shoulders through elaborate sniocking done with silk threads in the same color as the velvet, or satin

material, there has come about a revival of this primitive style of handwork. It Jias been used for three or four years on that wide assortment of so-called garden costumery that took women’s fancy, but, as a means of ornamentation, it was not-used on high priced, elaborate garments until Lanvin and Cheruit took it up for velvet evening capes. Lanvin went from smocking to quilting,, and it is rather strange that America has not caught .up with this trick of fashion, for we were once known, as nation of q uilters and our quilting bees, as a method into bur history. The French, are still using quilting as a method of ornamenting coats and one-piece frocks. A satin Street suit, 'made with severity, has its hem, its belt, and the wrist part of its long, tight sleeve finished in machine quilting done in course, black silk thread. Sports skirts of white jersey have quilted hems of scarlet, and quilted kangaroo p<*ckets hanging from the sides of tlie three-quarter coats. This stitchery rivals smocking bn the Trench gownsT and both of these methods of ornamenting a plain garment should suggest'to the who sews at home, an excellent way out of an' ever present difficulty. (Copyright, 1917. by the McClure Newspa- _ per Syndicate.)

This is a very new bit of millinery from Paris, which is a different version of the high hat from the one we know. It is all white, and the feathers rise to an amazing height, y

Th? wtdeh eadband is of vi o! et-col ore d straw made of narrow strips lapping each, other. The daring, stiffened crovyn is of violet satin, piped at the duter edge.