Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 34, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 10 February 1917 — New Sash for Spring Skirts [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

New Sash for Spring Skirts

’ 4i' i Will Differ From Those That Achieved So Much Popularity This Winter. v " T“* GOWNS IN BUCK AND WHITE ■ —: i Effective Combination That Has Made a Decided Hit With Parisiennea— Oray in Differing Shades la Also Being Widely Use Just Now. Paris r —Sashes,. sashes and again Bashes. Until a year ago there were only long belts, hanging or crossed. In August they came to us glorified because they were enlarged and lined with a different color to call attention to the important place they occupied in the decoration scheme. Up to the last month, these belt-sashes were ,tlcd In big loops at the side und dropped Softly to the hem of the short skirt. Now the loops have disappeared, and the sash, coming from some part of the waist, is simply crossed and falls to the very edge of the skirt, producing a long, severe lino. The sash that will adorn spring skirts will be about a third of a yard wide and will he lined with itself, unless the owner has -a black and white costume, when.the sash will show white underneath. —_ Speaking of black and white, the j combination was brought out by two j big houses in August. Other places called the idea “old,” “demode,” and did' not advise their clients to order I anything in it. During the last month ; the very best gowns I’ve seen at the frpern"Tnen rer_ nv teas have been the one of black satin or velvet with touches of white; and they have been so much admired and have been l such a success that it is not surprising j that nearly every smart frock being ordered today follows the black-and-white craze. Combinations in Gray. In the spring it is sure to be repeated, for byi the side of the black and white, colors'-appear garish. If anything shares equal popularity with this combination, it is gray, which is used in different shades, The gray is apt to be built on white, either in corsage or skirt, and with the many foldings, the shades vary from pearl to iron. As all the layers are of mousseline or tulle illusion, the en-sembte-fcr~ delicately soft Ttnd seductive. : ' ,- T • ■ We occasionally use_ gray with-Nat-tierblue, but by itself or with white satin it is best and most flattering. Gray used with white in this manner will greatly influence spring styles here. Parisiennes who afle tired of black, or even of the black and white combination, instead of ordering new things in colors, will brighten the black r with gray ; the couturlers, scenting the

Short-Waisted Afternoon Frock of Dark Blue Satin, with a Long Straight Tunic Embroidered—at the Top and Dropped Over Narrow Skirt Showing Band of Embrotdery at Hem The Long Sleeves Flare Over the Hand.

demand, are, I am told, making charming combinations of it to be shown in -February. New. Dye a Success. Dyes are difficult to obtain in Paris, just as other things are, and while black may not be easier than-any other dye, with such great experimentation going on in it, it is probable that the dye used now is purely French, and if so, then it is a great success. ninth, trieotine. serge and gabarffine will make tattered suits and ornate frocks for spring, with thousands of yards of satin, to be sure. Satin never-enjoyed such popularity in Paris as during the last year, and it is decidedly not on the wane. Some gowns and-long spring coats put satin only in part of the construction,—ln the upper or lower portion, with any Ssf the other materials added, , “ Satin enhances the value aDd beauty of any fabric it touches. It is frightfully expensive here, but jwomen will • have nothing else, for they know that a gown of it is worth six of another

material, bo there’s method In their madness. Again Greek Drapery. Thq evening frocks showing the tunic that suggests the Greek draping are very <*hTssieal. Some of the new ones are in Nattier blue, with the entire front 1 embroidered in a shadow-work stitch in dull gold. Paris does so love these gold touches and many, many gowns are more than touched-With.lt. I have seen new evening gowns almost entirely composed of gold lace, one tier on unother, and the picture was enchanting. All the decoration that some of the afternoon and eyenfng gowns have.is this embroidery across the front and back, forming a veritable medieval armor. New things that are admired employ the gold in the same manner, and we are sure to see the idea reproduced Tor spring and summer; Satin for Coat Suits. The designers here are bringing out a heavy weave of satin for the first spring suits, as a substitute for serge. There is a strong tendency to omit a

Spring Hat in the New Shape, of Brown Straw and Satin, With a High, Irregular, Flaring Crown and a Severe Visor Brim Turned Down, ward in an Even Line Around the Head.

blouse and arrange the coatsothat it~ can be kept on. A few of these new coats are buttoned down the buck from neck to hem, which removes any possibility of-their being-takea-oft In a public place. Tt Appears that the prevailing creed in fashion is that a woman must not think of going in her shirt sleeves any more than a man would think of doing it; she Wears a" wash blouse TSeheath the jacket for purposes of cleanliness, but not publicity. So far-reaching is this creed that the medieval tunic which extends only to the hip line and is fastened tothestioulder or slipcover Tlie head, Is worn with a cloth skirt over a blouse, even in the house. Probably the best thing to remember in buying clothes now is that the figure must be straightened out in the medieval manner, from bust to hips. You can choose your own way of doing it, whether by a deep girdle, by the straight lines of the fabric or by a belt* of suede or leather that conceals any inward curve beneath the arms to-, ward the waist. There is no evidence that embroidery in bullion and silk thread will go out of fashion this, spring, but the ornate French designs taken from stained-glass windows" of"the fifteenth Century have given way to the more primitive designs that one sees bn the pottery of Indians, “The fashion for the cashmere and Paisley shawls that came out in October will again find expression this spring in figures printed on flat surfaces, and also the reproduction of the Paisley pear, which is an old Indian design, in embroidery done in colored and bullion threads. (Copyright, 1917, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)