Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 27, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 2 February 1917 — SATIN IS USED IN WINTER HATS [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

SATIN IS USED IN WINTER HATS

More Seasonabteness in Headij ‘gear Is Shown This Season Than Last. EVENING HAT WITH LOW GOWN ■.• I , ■ • New Ones Are Made of Cloth of Silver and Gold Metallic Net and Lace, the Brims Transparent—Ru** sian Headgear Reversed. , The fact that the milliners have taken up satin for several shapes in the new millinery will contribute toward more seasonableness of headgear this winter than last. No one objects to satin, especially if it is in black or in a dark color, as a relief and offSfeVCdThfe MacK*velvet hatsthatfrave been worn so unremittingly that one began to think that the milliners had lost all of originality in choosing fabrics. There have been several seasons in which black velvet dominated, but there has. never been anything to equal the last six months. At any forgathering of women, the black velvet hat was, as seemingly necessary to the costume as the steel helmet to the soldier. Shapes differed, ornamentation varied, but the hat was black velvet, and on this fabric were rung the slight changes that the milliners invented. . Women do not tire of black velvety hats any more than they tire of serge suits and frocks. They are the bread and water of fashions. The only time that the velvet hat grows wearisome in the eyes of the average woman is when the first snows fall and the fashionables turn their atten-

tlon to thepirres. —Then the average woman wants to <ll sea rd velvet and get anything she can as- a- substitute; and today, satin is wisely offered as a compromise between winter and summer millinery. There are also satin hats in all the shades that nature gives to a dahlia, for America, as well as France, has decided that these purplish tones are excessively good-looking and is repeating them throughout costumery with excellent effect.

The brilliant purple that was advocated at the beginning of the season has been coldly greeted, but the deep purples that are almost on blue and black are fouqd to agree with every kind of gpwn and coat worn. The shapes of the new hats reveal no long-disguised secrets on the part of the millinery. . The Russian turban in its original form is abandoned, but there is an undoubted suggestion from the Muscovite turban in the new hat that is a reversal of the old —meaning that the high point of the brim in front is now turned to the back, and instead of the ornament being placed this part of the brim, it is kept in front. Russian Style Passe.

The national Russian headdress has been worn a bit threadbare in some of tlie cheaper hats, but its original glory is retained by the brides who are arranging these crowns with the point in front, as a setting for the tulle veil. ■ There is another influence at work among some of the milliners, which suggests the field hats worn by the European armies in the early part of the nineteenth century. These turbans are-Of satin, with the brim turned so high that the crown vanishes, and elongated at the sides and flattened at the back. One of the best of these French shapes is made of black satin, the top of, the extra high, upturned . brim edged with a fringe of aigrettes. , , The’ main points to remember in the hew hats are the tightness of the headband in aR Xurbans, the even line which is carried out around the head, the elimination of more than one ornament and the tendency to hold to Slavic ornamentation instead of other.

The Chinese mandarin turban which bus come' into hrst fashion along with the_ Chinese fabrics and ornaments imported to tins country to fill the place of the European importations, is strangely in keeping with some of the Russian shapes, and even the colors of the Chinese ornament which hangs from the button at the top, closely resemble those used by the Slavs. Well, there were days in the formation jjf the races on this planet when the Mongolian and the Russian were closely mingled. Genghis Khan left many Mongolian traces in that vast bit of territory known as Russia, and it may be that the hat was one. The Transparent Brim. Since the advent of the evening hat as an adjunct to the low gown when one is dining in restaurants, there has come into the fashions an entirely new kiad-of millinery. These. new. ..IhUdlS are afternoon hats de luxe. All that the milliners wanted a woman to wear in the afternoon, and against which site rebelled for many reasons, she is happy to wear at night. It has given her a good opportunity to exploit the wide—brim, which motoring, dancing and skating have put somewhat in the background. —These brims are transparent. Cartoonists used to draw amusing pictures of women , using brims of hats as a substitute for veils, and the idea was considered capricious and attrac-’ tive; and, suddenly, it is taken seriously. Metallic net and bullion lace are used for these wide brims, and the hat is tilted so far forward over the eygbrows that it is an easy matter to look upward through the fabric. The fashion has also led to women doing up their eyes a bit in the Oriental manner, so as to make them more significant and expressive under the half-concealing metal tissue. The crowns of these large evening hats are made of crystals, of closely crushed roses and of heavy metal embroidery on tulle or satin, but there are no feathers. The much-vaunted ostrich feather, which was taken up by the best of the French designers in September, did not gain a place in the affections of the public, and the musketeer hat that Talbot revived, with i its sweeping plumes and its likeness to those worn by the women of the eighteeenth century in England, was taken up only by the individual who wanted something different from her neighbor. It may be safely said that in choosing an evening hat or one for the afternoon, if you have the social opportunity to exploit so ornamental an article, it is -wise to just look into the metallic fabrics and go no further. The straight sailor of cloth of silver or gold is not used for-the evening, but is kept for the street, strangely enough’, and is sometimes worn with severe black velvet gowns in the aft-

ernoon. Makes Alluring Picture. It is at its very best in the latter setting. The woman who can wear a simply cut L medieval frock of black chiffon velvet, with its slightly open neck, absence of collar and full sleeves caught in with an embroidered band at the wrist, and a straight Reboux sailor of oxidized cloth of silver, is sure of turning herself into an alluring picture. It is not within the power of every woman to look well in a metallic hat.

If she will be fashionable at she cost of her appearance, let her take her courage in both hands and defy opinion; Hut if she will compromise with fashion and het appearance and will see to it that flesh pink tulle Is laid somewhere in the Intricacies of the metallic lace or embroidery that makes up the brim, she can frankly line a wide, transparent brim with a double thickness or plaiting of flesh pink tulle. "This will make a hat more striking and effective than If the harshness of its metallic threads is left un-’ touched by a softening veil. Probably the best of.these models is one that has a crown entirely of faint blush roses mounted on gold net which is pulled In and out of the flowers, and a brim that tilts a bit in front, made of fine gold lace mounted on flesh pink tulle. Across the back of the brim there is a wide, eighteenthcen.tury bow of blush pink velvet. , All of these evening hats are worn with low gowns more often than with half-high onds, but so far they have not been adopted at the theater, for few women are willing to go back to the Inconvenient days of holding a large hat on their laps, or, failing in the attempt to hold it, spend most of their time frantically grabbing it tol keep If from slipping, or plcklng it up from under the heels of the man who goes out between the acts. (Copyright. 1917. by the McClure 'per Syndicate.) •