Evening Republican, Volume 20, Number 273, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 14 November 1916 — Page 3

Evening Frocks Have Novelty

Silhouette Is Made a Feature of the Latest Edict of Fashion Leaders.

“VAMPIRE” EFFECT IS SEEN

Changes In Costumes Which,Are to Bo Considered "The Thing" Have Been Many and Varled-TRuf-fles a Serious Part of the New Styles.

Whatever we may do about house and street frocks, it looks as though the new silhouette for the evening will struggle Itself into first place. It la neither medieval nor first empire, but it has enough" 3 both in it to be enitrely lovely. Anything that makes the figure bulge at any part of its length is wrong. Probably, this is a good summary of the truth to be remembered by the woman who goes shopping. The large majority of the evening gowns would make one believe that the popularity of Theda Bara In the moving pictures had revived the vam-. pire in social life. It has been quite some time since fashion allowed women to have clinging clothes that swirled around the ankles, outlined the hips, neglected to cover the upper part of

BERNARD’S BORGIA GOWN. He calls It Lucrece. IS of metal cloth in green and gold, brocaded with gold flowers. There is a train of gold lace which hangs from the waist.

the body and were followed by obedient trains that crawled In a serpentine manner to give emphasis to the vampire effect. And in addition to this silhouette, there are sequins and glittering scales of red, yellow, blue and black that are used to cover gowns, intricate, swirling designs of metal thread, hems heavily weighted by gorgeous jewel work and girdles made of sinuous, glittering metals that have no substance and body, but only color and price. There are waving, floating draperies that reach to the fingertips instead of sleeves. There are gorgeous jewels worn with these gowns, gems that are seductive and mysterious and full of warm tones. For two years we have exposed ourselves below the knees, and this season we expose ourselves above the waist and cover the legs. It is never a question of modesty with fashion; it is a question of which part of the body shall be uncovered, and there was a brief period during last winter when the scarcity of material above and below the waistline arrived at such a proportion that one was shocked into wondering what would be eliminated further. There were gowns worn by young girls in public which reminded one of the remark made by a witty French woman, who said that If her skirts were made by Callof and her bodices by Poiret, her costume would consist of a girdle. Last Season’s Fashions Dead. If a woman is able to struggle through the next few months without buying new clothes and still remain sufficiently in fashion, she will have to place all her ruffles on her street clothes. There are few evening gowns on this continent that will be able to

JEWELS MUST SUIT GOWNS

4 “Choose your new Jewels tQ suit your new fall gowns.” The edict reads, "or,” it adds to the contrary, “choose your new fall gowns to harmonize with your cherished pendants, bracelets, rings and brooches.” Anyway, it means, be sure not-to forget that your jewels are intended to be worn with your new gowns, and when you think of one also remember the other. It may seem odd at first to say, “I must have newjewels to wear with that Oriental-looking affair,” or “My set of amethysts never will blend with that silk of green-blue sheen, so I will choose a purple-blue shade instead.” „ But it becomes second nature after a while, and you will no more think of ■ selecting your Jewels in a haphazard, happy-go-lucky maimer than you would think of being careless about the color or fit of your socks and slippers or the style and shape of your hat And it matters not a whit whether

do first-class duty this winter, unless one is skillful at alteration. This argument may seem to prove untrue according to the shop windows and the gowns that hang In glass cases in dressmaking places. There are skirts that are bunched at the waist and there are others that have two frills standing out from waist to hem, but these are not in iconic era, and not . direct from Caesar. Now, against all these Incoming fashions, how does a short, ruffled tulle gown, bunched on the hips, appear? If you can soften the lining, flatten the hips and add a train of velvet or satin pendant from the waistline at the back, you may be able to bring this frivolous frock into the stately silhouette ; but as the season progresses, gowns will grow longer and narrower. All the straws show that the wind blows in this direction. French Street Suit. As long ago as last July, those Who straws, rather than shop windows, insisted upon the fact that even street suits should maintain a straight silhouette. Every woman In Prance, smart and otherwise, had removed all manner of stiffening from her skirts as early as July and allowed the fullness to fall into the figure as softly as muslin, and yet the American dressmakers and tailors Insisted upon fla~ ing the tailor-made skirts out from the waistline emd hips and putting Into them an unnecessary amount of fullness. Manufacturers continued to make stiffened petticoats, and those who were interested in crinolines advanced them weekly as an aid to the new styles. Now, who wants a petticoat or a bit of crinoline? The latter is tabooed and the former is discarded or Ignored. The manufacturers in France have seen to it that the new fabrics carry out the new silhouette. They are not able to flare. They are too soft. They are woven so- that they will reveal, rather than conceal, the lines of the figure. The skirts are not narrow, but they are not unusually full, and they hang limp from the waist. The women of France Also lengthened their skirts .on the first of July and this is a sure forerunner of what

BULLOZ’ IMPERATRICE JOSEPHINE. It Is made of black velvet with a band of silver lace at hem and Vshaped pieces of green velvet under the arms. There is an ornament back and front, and shoulder straps made of emeralds and rhinestones.

we will do by Thanksgiving. There is not any strong evidence so far that women have ripped out the hems of their skirts, but In a few weeks the skirt that we wore last winter will look absurdly short and there will be an uncomfortable feeling that will demand the addition of a band of velvet or fur, if the aem is not wide enough to be used to lengthen it The season has been seething for three weeks, and the experts are able now to divide all the new French gowns into classes. (Copyright, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

you are to have a dozen glorious creations for your evening needs this coming fall or only a single simple frock to meet all obligations, the rule holds and the principle is the same; for one little pendant has just as much right-to be appropriate as have a whole set offine jewels. A dainty little maid with an eye for the future and a love of the a rustic fitness of things has chosen her birthday Jewelry to match her next winter’s dance frock. “For,” she said, “I have determined on pink for my ‘best’ this autumn, and why should I be forced to give thanks for turquoise or lapis when coral is what I want and really need? Yes, pink coral is my choice, and I shall have it mounted in a prgt-, ty silver necklace.” Wise was she, and so you will be if, when you decide upon your fall wardrobe, you give a little time and thought to your jewels.—Jew eler’s Weekly.

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN. RENSSELAER, IMP.

DESSERT OF MERIT

CH/RLOTTEB EABY TO MARE AND WILL BE LIKED.

Bponge Cake the Foundation of Delicacy That Is Worthy of a Place on Every Luncheon or Tea Table.

..Charlottes are easily made, and as they cans be varied widely, they are worth serving often. The foundation of a charlotte is a case of sponge cake filled with whipped cream. Lady fingers or small sponge cakes cut in two, or slices of sponge cake cut In narrow strips, can be used for the case. The sponge cake, in whatever form, can be placed as a lining to a glass dessert dish, or It can be placed in Individual dessert glasses. Lady fingers can be split and piled log-cabin fashion and the cream put into them. Or the sponge cake can be put around the sides and bottom of a mold and held In place with a tittle liquid gelatin. When the gelatin hardens the cream is put in. This combining gelatin and sponge cake and whipped cream leads to much variety. Lemon, orange, wine and grape-juice jelly are delicious used in this way. As for the charlotte filling of whipped cream, that, too, can be varied. Stiff egg whites can be folded into whipped cream to increase the bulk and make the baixture lighter if desired. The cream should not be sweetened too highly. It can be flavored simply with vanilla. Candled fruits can be cut into tiny shreds and mixed in the whipped cream. Orange pulp cut into bits can be mixed with sweetened whipped cream. Stewed figs can be cut into small bits and mixed with the filling for a charlotte. Fresh berries of any sort almost, especially strawberries and red raspperries, can- be mixed into the cream for a charlotte russe. A big sponge cake can be hollowed out inside and the charlotte filling Many desserts have interesting histories. This is one of them. But nobody is sure of its history. The French claim Jfiat Charlotte de Medici either originated this dessert or that it was named for her, and t£e English say it is a namesake of Charlotte, queen of George lIL

Hungarian Tongue.

Take a fresh beef tongue, put Instew pan with a carrot, an onion, a clove of garlic, a bay leaf, a teaspoonful of salt, half a dozen peppercorns, half a fresh lemon, sliced, and as much water as will cover it. Let it boil, then draw saucepan to the side of the fire, simmer gently until the tongue is quite tender. Take off the’ skin and trim the tongue neatly; strain reduce gravy. Mix a tablespoonful of flour very smoothly with two ounces of butter. Keep stirring over the fire until it is lightly browned, and steam a bruised clove of garlic in the browning. Add gradually threequarters of a pint of gravy and when quite smooth and thick stir in the Juice of half a lemon.~ Pour a little of the sauce into the dish with the tongue, and send rest to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. Two hours to simmer tongue. Sufficient for eight or nine people.

Herring and Cheese Canapes.

Prepare the canapes by cutting slices of bread half an inch thick, then stamping out two small rounds from each slice. Fry a light color and spread with the herring paste. Meanwhile put about a cupful of leftover cheese In a small saucepan and stand it in a vessel of boiling water on the stove. Add two tablespoonfuls of milk and a piece of saleratus the size of a small bean. Stir frequently until it is quite smooth. Then put the prepared canapes on a bakepan and divide the melted cheese equally over them and put in the oven about five or six minutes to heat. Serve immediately on hot plates.

Chocolate Bars.

One cupful granulated sugar, onehalf cupful butter, two eggs beaten light, one-half cupful flour (full measure), one and one-half tablespoonfuls of milk, two squares chocolate melted, one-half cupful walnuts chopped fine. Flavor with vanilla. Bake in dripping pan. Cut into bars when done.

Eggs Baked in Ramequins.

Butter the ramequins and line with bread crumbs. Break the egg and drop In whole. Salt to taste. Cover with bread crumbs. Add two tablespoonfuls of milk and a small piece of butter, and bake.

A Useful Hint.

Let the kettle in which mush has been cooked stand for five minutes before taking up. Then no hard residue will be left sticking to the bottom of the kettle to be soaked off and thrown away.

To Remove Egg Shells.

If, whdn breaking eggs into a bowl, a -pieco of shell gets Into the egg just touch it with the half shell and It cap be easily removed.

Mustard for the Hands.

Ground mustard is excellent for cleaning the hands® after handling onions and other strong smelling things 4

HOUSEHOLD HINTS OF VALUE

Bmall Thinap in Themselves, but They Will Be Found Well Worthy of Consideration.

To make house ferns grow rapidly, place four or five pieces of charcoal on top of the soil. Keep the flower pot in a Jardiniere, with plenty of water, and Its rapid movement will be astonishing. Try rubbing your stove well with vinegar before applying the blacking and you will be surprised at how much brighter your polish will be and how much longer it will last than If the blacking were applied to the uncleaned Iron.

To clean the white kid sljpei now so much in vogue make a paste of cornstarch and gusollne, keeping the mixture away from the fire, preferably out of doors. Rub the shoes thoroughly and leave In the sun to dry, when all superfluous powder may be rubbed off with a dry cloth. This preparation is also excellent for cleaning white felt

The raveled threads from old linen will be found best for darning tablecloths or napkins. Save all tea leaves for about a week and place them In a pail, over which may be poured boiling water. Allow them to stand for one hour; then struln and bottle the liquid. This, when applied with flannel to mirrors, windows and picture glasses, makes them shiue like crystul.

FOR PART OF DINNER MENU

Dish That Expert* Have Recommended as a Welcome Addition to the Table.

Little Chicken Aspics.—Line some plain individual molds with cool aspic jelly, decorate this with cooked peas and put them into a cool place until they are required. Put a quarter of a pint of thick mayonnaise sauce into a basin and mix it with a quarter of a pint of whipped cream. Then add by degrees a quarter of a pint of cool aspic jelly (which Is still liquid). Have in readiness some of the white meat of a cooked fowl cut Into small dice-shaped pieces, mask them quickly with the mayonnaise cream and fill she- individual molds. Turn out the Httie individual espies as soon as the mixture is quite firm* arrange them close together around a small platter which has been covered with chopped aspic and fill the middle of the dish with a salad composed of young peas (cooked) and lettuce.

Bran and Graham Biscuit.

One cupful sterilized bran, two cupfuls graham flour, one cupful milk, one egg, two teaspoonfuls sugar, one teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls butter, four teaspoonfuls baking powder. Mix the dry ingredients together, beat the egg slightly and add to the milk. Stir the liquids into the dry ingredients the same as for cream biscuits. Turn upon a slightly floured molding board and roll to one-half inch in thickness. Cut Into shape with the biscuit cutter and bake in a hot oven. Lastly, here is a very nourishing nut and raisin bread that is particularly good for the children’s school luncheon, but it is weH to chop the raisins so as to make them more easily digested.

French Pickles.

One colander of sliced green tomatoes, one quart sliced onions, one colander of cucumbers, pared and sliced; two good handfuls of ’salt. Let all stand 24 hours, then drain through a sieve; one-half ounce celery seed, onehalf ounce allspice, one teacupful of white mustard seed, one teacupful of black pepper. Use a little less pepper, if you don’t like yours too hot. Use one-half cupful pepper, one tablespoonful tumeric, one pound of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of mustard, one gallon of vinegar.

Stuffed Cucumbers.

Make a force meat of one cupful of veal or lamb, and half a cupful of bread crumbs; season with butter, salt and cayenne. Scoop out centers of six large-sized cucumbers, cut in halves. Take a slice off the bottom so that they will stand upright. Arrange them In a deep pan, pour in a cupful of stock, let simmer in this, In oven until tender; take them out, arrange on a hot dish; thicken the gravy with brown flour; let it boil up once and serve round cucumbers.

Air Pudding.

Beat the w’hltes of two eggs very stiff. Put through a sieve two cupfuls of sweetened apple sauce, turn the sauce Into the dish with the beaten whites of eggs, add a little lemon flavoring and beat all together. Put it in a dish that yon will serve it from and set away to chill. Some say it tastes like sherbet (lemon).

Graham Gems.

Try these and you will find they are “gems”: One large cupful sifted graham flour, one cupful white flour, onefourth cupful molasses, one beaten egg, one /cupful sour milk, one teaspoonfnl soda dissolved In the milk and pinch salt. Bake In gem pans in hot oven.

When Cooking Cranberries.

A quarter of an apple cooked with each quart of cranberries lessens the crudeness of their flavor but does not diminish their tartness.

To Brighten Carpets.

Wipe them with warm water to which has been added a few drops of ammonia.

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