Evening Republican, Volume 20, Number 248, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 16 October 1916 — Page 3

Season's Show Novelty

Two Distinct Styles Have Been Featured by the Parisian “Big Houses.” SLEEVES MADE A FEATURE v _____ ~ , • Decree Is That They Must Be Tight From the Elbow Down—Directoire and First Empire Effects Copied—Embroidery Used in Profusion.

New York. —The coats of the season may be roughly summed up in two parts —the short, capelike shapes with sleeves that ripple over die top of JT high-walsted, embroidered belt attached to the skirt—these are in the minority, but very smart —and the mannish directoire coat featured; by Cheruit, Bernard, Douillet, Callot and most of the other big Paris houses. This lai ter coat will probably be the shape seen on more than half the women this season. It has a slim top that fits the figure, a small belt that draws attention to itself through buttons or buckles In front, and an extra full skirt which convolutes around the figure and in which are exploited several of the newest features. They are difiicult to describe in detail; the general idea, is .that the material is brought back and twisted over in many curious ways, as if the designer had been trying out an experiment with the cloth and had pinned it up into pockets, loose straps and revers and then leftthem all there. Coat Has Novel Features. The novelty in the top part of the coat consists in radiating lines from neck to waist by gussets of the same material inserted and corded or stitched at the edges. It is probable

New Satin Blouse From

that this idea was evolved from what is known as the delta decollete, which was exploited by the Duchess de Vendome in Paris last winter, but which waa never taken up in this country. These gussets inserted from neck to waist make a deep delta effect. The sleeves are gathered at the top. sometimes made after the genuine leg-o’-mutton shape which is not approved by American dressmakers and which has been altered by many of them into a more graceful shape which is buttoned tightly from the knuckles of the hand to just below the elbow, then flaring to the armhole, where its fullness is slight enough to be put into a few well-streaked gathers at the back. Whatever else sleeves are, they are tight from the elbow down. Cuffs of fur are frequent, but they fit the wrist and flare upward .and outward to hold the fullness of the sleeve as it mounts toward the bend of the elbow. Fur collars are made in this shape, often pointed in front, fitted tightly to the shoulders and flaring upward and outward to the ears. Satin, velour, jersey and velvet are the choice of materials for these suits. Inclined to the Dlrectolre. The prophecies for directolre and first empire styles have Cpfhe good. There are gowns of dull blue satin that have small jacket effects attached to the skirt, half covered with gray soutache embroidery, which are cut in a straight line just under the bust and then dipped to long points of braiding over the hips. The street coats that have been described might have been worn in France under the directory. The three-quarter topcoats, twhlch are the

CHIC HAT AND COLLARETTE

Lovely new Smolin “Bluebird” model of the new shade of cerise panne velvet, the facing of which ia of Alice blue. The shirred tam-o’-shanter crown and ornaments of jet add to the attractiveness of this charming hat Collarette of koiinsky and ermine, which will be co very popular this coming

strongest feature of the new fashions, are belted so high under the bust and have such narrow shoulders that they instantly suggest a costume worn by Tosca. The skirts of these coats are full, cling to,the figure and are covered with soutache or embroidery. There is a band of fur on the outside of the hem —this is a novelty borrowed from the Russians —and a deeper band on the inside. Coats of Heavy Blue Satin. Heavy satin is used as frequently for coats as velvet, and a bright dark blue seems to be the choice of the French designers. Both of them are heaped with fur. Nutria is used, rabbit, brown, gray and white, but not many of the coarse, long-haired peltry. The fur this-jseasea- must be flat and pliable, so that-it cun lend itself to all the soft curves of the material. Bernard has turned out a black satin emit with brown fur that the American dressmakers think will have a long run of popularity. It follows the fashion of last year, in that it has wide, distended openings at the side, exactly below the waist, that are heavily corded at the edges. There is a black gown that goes with this, with a deep renaissance yoke of gold lace, but the majority of women will buy the coat, probably, without the gown. Miles of Embroidery. It would be terrifying to have a statistician measure in miles the embroidery used on the new gowns. It would make a new burden for our minds to carry, which are already feeling the burden of this departure in clothes. If there is one thing that France knows how to do better than any other place in the world, it is needlework. She has called up all her resources in this line today. All her needleworkers are not under the colors, but they are under orders to cover every piece of material that goes out of Paris with the most complicated embroidery. The designs are drawn from sev» eral sources of Inspiration. China, Japan and Russia are the nations which The majority of the designs, however, are reminiscent of the moyen age—those sumptuous and exquisite patterns that were produced from the~twelfth to the fifteenth century.

There are bits of embroidery on street suits that look as though they were copied from altar Entire coats have their surfaces plastered with soutache braiding, which, incorporate hundreds of flat disks, wonderfully done. All Colors Seemingly Used. Oyster gray soutache is the color chosen for the largest amount of braiding done, and every color is used in the embroidery, as well as every stitch and design that the world has ever produced. Jet and colored beads are profusely used. A black silk house gown is al-

Evening Coat in Brilliant Colors.

most covered with a design in jet. Colored beads in ornamental motifs hang from belts, collars and cuffs. Metal thread is lavishly employed and usually several metals are combined. One of the most effective evening gowns has its mass of embroidery done in gold, silver. red and blue metal Threads. The blouse Illustrated is in biscuit color, with a double collar and cuffs of chiffon edged with narrow bands of brown rabbit. The sash is of brown chiffon, tied at the side and finished with gold fringe. Exceedingly popular ’is the coat shown. It has been drawn from the eighteenth century and is made of bright, rose-colored satin trimmed with ermine and silver roses. The pockets are corded and topped with roses. (Copyright, 1916, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

Widow’s Bonnet.

While the majority of mourners are not making their mourning conspicuous by its very intensity, there are still widows ‘who persist in wearing the long veil as a token of their bereavement. For such there are several picturesque new styles being shown. The veil draping is not very different from that employed by those out of mourning who are adopting the long veil for its smart style qualities. It is thrown over a small toque foundation, thrown back from the face and held perfectly plain in front by a band of white crepe around the face line. A bridle of white crepe is passed un der the chin and is quietly very chic to an attractive woman. _

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER, IND.

The French huve reaped a heavy harvest on the So mine, both in uieu and wheat. This shows them engaged tn the more peaceful reaping. ■—w ?

FINDS BRITISH TRENCHES LAST WORD IN SKILL

Observer Says They Are devoid of Traps for Drawing Enemy’s Fire. THINKS THE FOE UNNERVED Condition of German Prisoners Said to Indicate That the Strain Is Telling on the Whole Army—Kindness Surprises Captives. London. —Some new points of view are presented in the course of an article from an authoritative British source. Just what a man will see and what he is likely to feel if he visits the allied front line near the .Somme at the point where the British army has just made one of its many steps forward are the writer’s theme. After describing the general character of the country he recounts his progress through the communicaWalking with your head two feet under cover along a neat crack in the earth with a sharp corner every few yards, finally you turn the last corner into the actual firing trench. It is a trench to gladden the connoisseur’s heart. How the men must have worked whenever they were not fighting—and is digging less dear than fighting to the soul of youth?—in order to model this perfect line of defense and offense, its shapely firing step and clear-cut verticle walls and massively squared transverses! Here is no gapping V-shaped ditch to collect the enemy’s trench mortars and invite his wandering whizbangs in, and the men know it. You walk along the trench and see just pride as well as confidence in their faces. It is noon now, and some of them are blowing on hot tea to cool it, or eating out of their dixies hot stew of meat, potatoes and peas. It has not always been thus in the English firing trench. The English only learn war in each of their wars by degrees, but now they have learned it. The day is fine, and other men are asleep, basking like cats in a state of beatitude on little sunny shelves and bunks cunningly sculptured out of the trenches’ firm clay walls. One little knot of men off duty are bending over a comic paper at a corner. The wary old trench dweller always likes a corner, because he can jump round it at the shortest not ice and put a solid wall of earth between himself and anything noxious that drops in. On the other side another group cheerfully reopens that undying theme of debate the British soldiers—the merits and demerits of the salient at Ypres. “How long was you at Wipers?” “Four months.” “Well, I wai there five months; so what right have you to speak?” A general laugh greets this method of proof and someone else cuts in.

Sentries Watch Germans.

You meet officers anxious about nothing except to know what there is in the last English papers. Sentries on duty, with all the crowns of their grass-green steel helmets dipped cunningly down to the parapet’s level, report that nothing is stirring over the way. These helmets used to be ugly and not highly protective. They looked like the barber’s basin that Don Quixote took to be the helmet of Mambrina. The new make of helmet is prettier, and also more virtuous. It covers more of the neck, though not so much; as the blue-steel skull caps of the French, with their turned-down brims, and its lines are artistic.J Worn at the proper angle, it makes the comely young sentry look rather like Douatello’s David at Florence.

REAPING HARVEST OF PEACE CLOSE TO WAR

With stooping heads, the sentries report "nothing doing.’* That means nothing visible, nothing audible. Peering over the parapet for a moment you see only a wilderness of bare earth, pitted thickly with conical holes from three to - eight Teet~deep.~ Four hundred feet away ds the skeleton of a dead village. No sign of life is to be seen there except perhaps one of the larks which sing cheerfully through cannonades that would make the pheasants in faraway Sussex nervous, or else a big hawk slowly quartering around and sending the larks into a retirement as modest as that of German air men. And yet you know that that waste is Infested; that you need only tp raise your head a foot higher to bring a bullet dipping itself with a quiet flick into the loose earth behind you; that if you crawled out on your stomach and peeped over the edge of each shell hole you reached you would come at last to one in which men in wide-skirted gray tunics with narrow bands round their caps were crouching, some of them nursing their one good friend, a machine gun, some of them digging hard -to connect hole with hole till a row of fortuitous dots Is turned Into a line; some of them resting tucked into little cavities scooped in the earth or near the side wall of a quarry, and staring apprehensively up at bomb-laden British biplanes wheeling about in the sky overhead as the larks in the grass look up at a hawk. Kindness Surprises Captives. You know all this, because on the way up this morning you talked with a number of Prussian and Saxon prisoners in one of the cagbs at the little camps where the latest captives rest for some days out of range of their friends’ heavy guns till they can be sent by train to the base or to England. Three days ago they came down broken-hetlrt('il to the cage, theirfaces lined and with mental overstrain, some of them still mechanically making deprecatory gestures of surrender and entreaty. As they marched today all the lines were smoothed out. They had been fed and had slept for whole nights, and had found that the “murderers” described to them by their own sergeants inflicted nothing but offprs of cigarettes. So they began to expand in the unexpected sunshine of good treatment and they told what life had been like in the shellholes, Its good points and its bad. The food, it had been good, but sometimes it did not come because the British guns would draw a kind of fence of falling shrapnel across a piece of Country, a sort of showerbath of bullets dropping along the line, so nobody could cross the line without being hurt. Still the bread and meat and chocolate, when they did come, were good and the water was sometimes mineral water in bottles.- The trouble was that the British guns would not cease firing and the British aeroplanes would not go away, nor the German ones come out of their sheds. Sometimes the men in the shellhole

would see British troops in the open within rifle range, but would not dare shoot lest British airmen should see where they were and send word to a British gun and bring down a high explosive shell on the old shellhole to bury them all alive by a second rearrangement of the earth. You perceive this apprehension just because you twice today have seen the end of a stiff black-booted leg protruding out of the wall of an old shellhole. ° Other questions about their life at. the frontthe prisoners answered as freely. Had they talked Yes, there were any number of Social Democrats in the army and every onp thought great changes would come when the war was over, but not now. Were there*, any desertions? No. Many men would be glad to be prisoners, but would not desert. Many more still would surrender if the German officers were not so quick to shoot men who put up their bands, and if all the German soldiers knew that the allies did not kill prisoners nor have them scalped by savages. Strain on German Nerves. Those, then, are the kind of men. and that is the kind of life and st.aUdf mind which exist beyond the 300 intervening yards of blank ground. On

some early day, perhaps, an incessant sequence of separate shell bursts among and around them at Intervals will change in an instant into an outburst of furious, Continuous barking like suddenly angered dogs, or that of a great many suddenlyangered dogs.--The earth of their trench and in front of It and behind It will begin to dance up in fountains, like the surface of a puddle during a very heavy rain, only that all the earth fountains are 20 feet high. Perhaps the Germans wHV just be able to see through a hole iu the smoke that the British parapet, where not a sign of human habitation had been seen before, bristles with mer standing up at full height and then moving forward. In the next 20 minutes many capricious fates will befall individuals on both sides, but underlying this seeming confusion in the destinies of atoms-causes will still be having their natural effects. The average German soldier, having endured defeat already, will fight less well than he did. His nerves having suffered strain of those new experiences fn the shellholes will hold out less long that they used to. His mind having learned that surrender into the hands of Englishmen does not mean death or ill usage, but merely release from danger and exhaustion, he will be less averse to surrender than he was. The German army naturally scored last year by being quicker than the allies to see that success in trench warfare was to the side with the most munitions. It made competition In munition-making-and_.lt has beendlstanced in. that competition, and now the wide advancing line of English infantry will enter the German trench, a trench shattered out of shape as no allied trench ever has been shuttered. Even at Verdun causes will have their effects, though sometimes it may not seem like it- However long the war may yet last it has begun to have the character of a winding up. Even a minor English attack on the short length of trench near the Somme begins to be recognizable now as one of the many forms that have to be/gone through one after another In liquidating a business that is clearly bankrupt.

KAISER SWEATS AT HARVEST

Col ogneVdfkszeitu n iHow Tffia Emperor Worked in Shirtsleeves With His Peasant Folk. Amsterdam. —The story of the kaiser working in the harvest fields is told by the Cologne Volkszeitung as follows: —- —■ “Why do the people run? Why do they rush to the fields? To see the kaiser. It is between 5 and 7 in the evening. The laborers are busy loading their carts wfth sheaves. Suddenly all hands are idle; all caps are doffed ; everybody stands aghast. “The kaiser is coming. The ‘all highest* is already on the spot! He tikes off his coat! In hik shlrtsreeves~~tfie head of the German empire works in the field! He lends a hand to secure for himself God’s golden blessing. As the kaiser does, so do the high official? and officers. And look! Do you not see our imperial chancellor working? It is true! It is he. “With surprise the spectators behol(* the kaiser wiping the sweat from his brow with his sleeve. We see him sitting among the laborers drinking water from a common jug. Like a father he talks to the children. He asks them to run across thestiibblefleld and, laughing heartily at the enjoyment' of the children, gives them little presents.”

Betrothed Become Widows.

Geneva, Switzerland. —Many young women in the Duchy of Baden betrothed to officers and soldiers killed in the war have taken advantage of a recent decree of the minister of justice that gives them practically the status bf widows,. They have adopted the names of their dead fiances and call themselves“ Mrs,” They wear mounting and wedding rings and are known as war widows. They wear a headdress distinguishing them from real widows. 4 It is expected that this system wffl be extended to other German state*.

IF

By REV. B. B. SUTCLIFFE

Extension Department, Moody Bibla Institute. Chicago

Satan frequently uses an “if’ to awaken doubt and God frequently

and power. Decision expresses Itself In the “if” of action which deepens the conviction and destroys the doubt. The “If” of Doubt. We are constantly tempted t« doubt the Lord’s Word. When Peter was told that what he thought was a spirit upon the water that stormy night was the Lord himself he said, “ft it be thou —.” There is the hint of doubt In that “if.” The doubt lingered and took shape in Peter’s mind. Translated it said to Peter, “Did I hear aright? Is it really the Lord? Was it, and is it, the Lord?” The “if’ rose up and Peter went down. We step out on the stormy water and the first steps are so brave and true when suddenly the “if” rises up, and doubt of his word comes in. and we begin to sink. Again we doubt his power. The father of the demonized boy is an illustration. He brought the boy to the Lord and said, “If thou canst do anything.” The poor man had “If* in the wrong place, for he was told, “If thou canst believe.” As in Mark 10:27. “With God all things are possible.” Not “to” God all things are possible, that goes without saying, but “with” God. This links man with God. The machine is a dead, idle and helpless thing until linked with the engine, when it becomes dynamic with communicated power. “If thon canst do?” “If thou canst believe.” And we doubt his willingness. The cry of the leper, “If thou wilt" is still being heard. We are constantly doubting his willingness because of our condition. Constantly forgetting that “He that spared not his own son, but delivered him up for us all will, with him, also freely give us all things.” We hear of him healing the deaf, making the lame to walk, yea, even raising the dead, but when it comes to our own desperate condition and forget his goodness and grace. Others may be blessed, our friends may be helped, 1 we may have his w’ord, we may know his power, but because of our condition we are tempted to doubt, saying, “If thou wilt.” Again, we doubt his providences. When the Lord by Elisha had promised in the midst of famine to make Sour cheaper than the refuse of the street, one high in authority sarcastically asked: “If the Lord would make windows in heaven, might this thing be?” It was such a new, un-heard-of thing—so sudden. Is it possible he would make the grain to grow in a night? The “if’ of rationalism comes In and casts doubt on the promise of God. He has promised that all our needs will be supplied, but because we do not see how he can do it we admit the doubt and find ourselves on dangerous ground, losing our peace and missing the blessing. Once more we doubt his presence. We are told he will never leave us nor forsake us, but In spite of that, when circumstances which hurt and distress surround us, we are tempted, like Gideon of old to say, “If the Lord be with us why then is all this befallen us?” He knows all the why of our circumstances.

The “If" of Faith. In Romans 8:31 is written “What shall we say then to these things? us?” The very next verse tells how we may know that God is for us. “He ( that spared not his own Son, but delivered him up for us all, how shall he not with him also freely give us all things?” If he gave the greater he will give the less. If he gave his Son would he not give all things? If he has given Christ he will withhold no good things. How this “if’ should aw’aken our faith in his word, his willingness, his power, - ,etc. _ The “If” of Decision. This Is found in Elijah’s exhortation to Israel, “If the Lord be God follow him, but If Baal followed him.” Israel must make a decision between them. We, too, must decide between Satan’s “if’ of doubt and the Lord’s “if’ of faith. We have a glimpse of what It means in the Apostle Paul. He counted the cost, faced the toil and hardship, saw the dark road ahead of him, but looked also at the presence and power of the .Lord, and. assuring his heart that God was with him and , for him, made the decision. May it be ours to meet the “if* of decision and say: Then into his hand went mine And into my hear? went he And I walked in a light divine The path where I feared to be.

uses an “if* to awaken faith. We decide wjjlch “if” we will have. So in the Scriptures there are these three —the “if” of d<nibt, the “if’ of faith and the “if’ _ of decision. By nature we doubt all that comes from God. Doubt expresses Itself by the “If’ of question, and unconscious to the believer stea 1 s away his peace