Evening Republican, Volume 20, Number 245, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 12 October 1916 — TRIMMED WITH FUR [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

TRIMMED WITH FUR

Apropos of felt hats, I must record the fact that “cut felt" hats are an absolute rage in Paris and also at. Biarritz, writes a correspondent from the latter place. These hats are “cut everywhere." The bonier of the brim Is cut and left without binding; the only trimming consists of a baud and flat bow of felt with “cut” edges. These hats are charming In all the soft neutral tints; pale beige, silver gray, gray-blue and so on. Directolre shapes are being revived, and while crowns gqt higher and higher, very narrow brims are all the fashion. Nearly all the new sailor shapes in Jqlt have soft crowns which ftre cleverlv manipulated to give thfiJmpresaion of a double band around the crown. In some cases wide bands of black or dark blue ribbon are introduced, but the correct thing at the present moment Is the felt hat trimmed with fur, Lewis Is showing some very eccentric hats in his Biarritz establishment. This milliner has the courage of his convictions and such a large following that almost any model launched by him becomes popular. In his showrooms I have seen a good many directolre toques, with towering crowns and the narrowest of narrow brims. These toques are trimmed with flat bands of fur; or with lengths of bright colored picot ribbons, the latter being twisted round the high crown and tied In jaunty bows at one side. White felt hats are now worn with the thinnest and most transparent dresses, and it is said that white and pale tinted felt hats will be fashionable all through the winter. I have recently seen some beautiful tailored suits in Worth’s show rooms. This dressmaker remains true to the traditions of his house. Nothing eccentric or merely sensational finds a place in the Maison Worth, but everything is in the most perfect taste. Worth is making all his new winter coats quite long, that is to say, kneelength. And these coats are accompanied by plaited skirts which almost reach, the ankle. The result is admir-

The Latest Biarritz Novelty Is the Hat of Cut Felt With Hatter's Band to Match. able. He showed me a lovely Louis XIV coat which had just been created for an English djichess. It was made of raven’s-wing-blue faced cloth and trimmed with bands of sable; there were large cut jet buttons which had tiny diamond centers, and the coat was lined with pompadour brocade which showed dull blue flowers on a dark purple ground. No panniers; nothing that could possibly be twisted into a “bustle.” His dinner gowns for matrons—these have always been a Worth specialty — are made of the most magnificent-vel-vets and brocades, and some of the trains of these gowns are heavily embroidered.

and diagrams A and B show the shapes in which they should be cut out. The side of the boat is represented with black silk, and diagram C shows the shape of the piece that will be required. Dlagrnm D gives the shape of the material for the stern of the boat, anti for this gray silk Is used. Tin- reflections of the boats in the water arr worked with silk of various shades of blue, and the seagulls are

indicated with gray silk. The masts of the boats are worked with dark brown silk and the little flags with scarlet. The cosy is edged with blue and white silk cord, which is arranged in three little loops in thei center ut the top. With the exercise of a little ingenuity some very quaint and pretty cosies of other designs can be prepared in the manner described.