Evening Republican, Volume 20, Number 143, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 15 June 1916 — FANCIES AND FADS OF FASHION [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FANCIES AND FADS OF FASHION

By Julia Bottomley

AFTERNOON GOWN OF TWO MATERIALS A photograph sometimes fails to picture that which -makes a pleasing impression in a gown. This occurs when blending of colors, or contrasts in the texture of materials used, produce effects which the lens cannot reproduce. Blue and white striped silk is made up with blue chiffon in the frock pictured. The particular shade of blue used makes a fine contrast with white, and the two seem blended in ornaments of silver braid and silver tassels used for trimming the bodice. The photograph does not convey the value of the colors. The skirt consists of two flounces of the striped silk, corded at their lower edges, set on to a full skirt of chiffon which terminates at the upper edge of the lower flounce. There is in underbodice with full sleeves, of the chiffon. Shaped pieces of silk are corded at their edges with a small cord covered with bias strips of silk and set on to the underbodice. The

FAVORITES ON THE SCREEN OF FASHION In the moving picture show of fashions tlw sHiftll hat continues to be projected upon the screen for a public that shows no sign of lessening allegiance to it. It has been a star in the world of millinery, made of every Known millinery material and trimmed with every sort of trimming. Now there is nothing further to do but to begin all over again at the beginning, and the beginning is a small shape of straw or silk braid trimmed,with ribbon.' Three smart models in which ribbon amounts to more than an adornment are shown here. In the first one a shape of milan hemp has a narrow brim that droops over the brow and rolls up at the sides and back. It is wide enough to shade the eyes. A handsome faille ribbon lies in a cascade over the crown. At the front little apples made of straw are set in varnished leaves. From the same position at the back three loops are posed. One long and two short loops are held upright by a small wire run in a tuck, which is sewed in length* wise along the center of the ribbon. A narrow braid is sewed along the tuck on the outside of each loop. In the second hat a wide satin sash-

bodice is given a jacket effect by pieces at each side set on at the waist line under the ornaments of silver braid. They form, with the back and front, a short peplum. The collar and cuffs are of white chiffon edged with bias bands of the striped silk. There is an odd and original feature in the shaped ruffle of silk set on at the elbows. This gown suggests a practical way for remodeling a silk dregs that is too antiquated in style to be worn without altering. Four yards of chiffon or georgette crepe will make the underbodice'and short skirt that serve as the foundation. Where the amount of silk is not sufficient to make two flounces one flounce may be set on to the short chiffon skirt without gathering. In this case the upper edge of the silk flounce is cut into shallow tabs, or battlement pattern, bound with silk-covered cord and stitched to the chiffon. The skirt of the old gown is converted into a flounce for the new one. Out of the bodice and sleeves the silk for draping the new bodice of chiffon is supplied.

ribbon is folded about a wire frame to form the side crown. The top of the shape is covered with a small plaque of straw braid. Narrow braid forms a binding for the edgewire and extends in rows- all about tha hat -to the top crown. It outlines the brim where it joins the crown. Two long loops are supported by wire and mounted at the back. They are finished with a knot and short ends which rest on the hair. In the third hat, as in that just described, ribbon forms a part of the shape and makes the trimming. It is made, over a wire frame, of moire ribbon and silk braid. Strips of ribbon overlap to cover the top part of the shape, and the lower half is covered with rows of braid. Loops of ribbon spring from the crown, and a small straw ornament is applied at the left side.'