Evening Republican, Volume 20, Number 139, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 10 June 1916 — Page 2

DO YOU SMOKE TOBACCO?

Then you’ll find some savory whiffs of fact in this article—Social history of the “divine weed’’

7 _ rryi ANY axe the dreams which I | wooers of Lady Nicotine have seen floating in the genial vapor which curls upward from their pipes and cigars, says the St.. Louis Post-Dis-patch; but none of them could have more fascination than the quaint and curious lore upon the subject of the weed which has been compiled by an English writer, Q. L. Apperson, and published under the inviting title of “The Social History of Smoking.” Everyone knows that tobacco was one of the gifts of the New World to the Old, and that Sir Walter Raleigh made smoking fashionable in England in the days of Queen Elizabeth. For the next 50 years the smoking of pipes not only became general among all classes, but a thing of highest fashion, held in the light of an art. In those days it was not said that a man smoked tobacco, but that he “drank” or “sucked” tobacco; and the smoker was called a “tobacconist.” The gallant of those days had no hesitation about smoking in the presence of women, and a character in Chapman s play, “All Fools,” praises himself as different from others: “And for discourse in my fair mistress’ presence. I did not, as your barren gallants do, Fill my discourses up drinking tobacco.”

One of the Btrangest things about Shakespeare's works, says the author, is the fact that nowhere does he mention the word tobacco. The conclusion is drawn that Shakespeare did not smoke. His contemporaries, Spencer and Ben Jonson are different. Spencer invoked the plant as “Soveraigne weede, divine tobacco,” and from Jonson's comedies can be gathered a perfect compendium of “tobacco drinking” as one of the most important social phenomena of the age. He reveals that a singular feature of the enthusiasm for tobacco in the early years of the seventeenth century was the existence of “professors of the art” of smoking. The tobacco sellers were mostly apothecaries and some of these took pupils and taught them the “slights, as tricks with the pipe were called. These included inhaling, and sending out the smoke in globes, rings, and so forth. Shift, a professor of the art in Jonson’s “Every Man Out of His Humor,” puts up a bill in St. Paul’s in which he offers to teach any young gentleman newly come into his inheritance “to entertain the most gentlemanlike use of tobacco, as first, to give it the most exquisite perfume; then to know all the delicate sweet forms for the assumption of it; as also the rare corollary and practice of the Cuban ebolition, euripus and whiff, which he shall receive, or fake in here at London and evaporate at Uxbridge, or farther, if it please him.” ’"Taking the whiff,” says the author, “may have been either a swallowing of the smoke, or a retaining it In the throat for a given space of time; but what he meant by ‘Cuban ebolition’ or ‘euripus’ is perhaps best left to the imagination.” If one contemporary writer may be believed, some of these early instructors in smoking professed to be able to teach the secret of emitting smoke not only from the nose but from the ears; but a healthy skepticism is permitted here. There is a tradition that Queen Elizabeth herself once smoked—with unpleasant results. Campbell, in his “History of Virginia,” says that Raleigh having offered her majesty some tobacco to smoke, "after two or three whiffs she was seized with nausea, upon observing which some of the earl of Leicester's faction whispered that Sir Walter had certainly poisoned her. But her majesty, in a short while recovering, made the countess of Nottingham and all her maids smoke a whole pipe out among them.” The queen evidently had no desire to monopolize the novel sensation caused by smoking. An old writer. In a “Life of Raleigh,” says that tobacco “soon became of such vogue in Queen Elizabeth's court that some of the great ladies, as well as noblemen therein would not scruple sometimes to take a pipe very sociably.” Many royal ladies of our time have had the reputation of being confirmed smokers, says Apperson. Among them may be mentioned Carmen Sylva, dowager queen of Roumania, the Dowager Tzarina of Russia, the late Em-

NICKNAMES OF THE WAR

War nicknames are a curious study. Probably there never was a war which did not give rise to some comic or offensive designation for the enemy. “Piets” (painted people) and "Lombards" (longbeards) remain as isolated monuments of the Roman soldier's play of fancy. The French in the early centuries called us "tails,” for some rather mysterious reason.

press Elizabeth of Austria, King Alphonso’s mother, formerly quean regent of Spain; the Dowager Queen Margherita of Italy, and former Queen Amelia of Portugal. It is, of course, well known that Austrian and Russian women generally are fond of cigarette smoking. On Russian railways it is not unusual to find a compartment labeled: “For women who do not smoke.” Queen Victoria, who detested tobacco and banished it from her abodes as far as she could, once received a present of pipes and tobaccos. She had sent to the king of Dahomey a basket tent, a silver pipe and two silver trays. That dusky old reprobate replied that he hoped the next gifts would include a carriage and pair and a white woman, both of which he would appreciate very much; but sent in return some native pipes and tobacco for the queen to smoke.

A curious feature of tobacco manners among fashionable smokers of the Elizabethan period was the practice of passing the pipe from one to another, after thd fashion of a loving cup. In a play of 1614, one London, gallant says to another who is smoking: “Please you to impart your tmoke?” “Very willingly, sir,” says the smoker. Number two takes a whiff or so and courteously says: “In good faith, a pipe of excellent vapor!” The rich young swell carried about with him an elaborate tobacco apparatus, often of gold or silver. It included a tobacco box, tongs with which to lift a live coal to light his pipe, a ladle “for the cold snuffle into the nosthrill,” a priming iron and as large a collection of pipes as his means could afford and his pockets could And room for. Sometimes the tobacco box was of ivory, and occasionally a looking glass was set in the lid, so that when the beau opened it to take out tobacco, he could also have a view of his delectable person. However, tobacco had many enemies, and of these the most influential was Queen Elizabeth’s successor, Janqes I, author of the famous “Counterblasts to Tobacco.” One of his most restrained denunciations of “tobacco drinking” was this: “A custom loathsome to the eye, hateful to the nose, harmful to the brain, dangerous to the lungs, and in the blacke stinking fume thereof, nearest resein--bling the horrible Stigian smoke of the pit that is bottomlesse.” Through the royal example of James and of his son, Charles I, smoking gradually sank into a decline insofar as It was a fashionable practice, which continued until well Into the last century. Thence arose the curious fact that the pleasure-loving cavaliers were not smokers, while the Puritans, sour as was their hatred of nearly every joy, were mighty “drinkers of the weed.” The finds of pipes on the sites of the camps of the parliamentary armies have been numerous. It is not known whether Cromwell smoked; but Milton smoked a pipe at 9 p. m. every day before retiring. However, in some cases the Puritans contrived to introduce their religion even into pipesmoking, for an old chronicler tells of a Presbyterian minister so precise that “he would not so much as take a pipe of tobacco before that he had first sayed grace over it.”

On more obvious grounds we have been known since the days of John of Arc as “godlams,” the one epithet to which our gallant allies have remained faithful throughout the centuries. We on our side have chiefly exercised our wit on the supposed' passion of all Frenchmen for frogs. The nature of a war, indeed, can generally be traced in war nicknames.,

THE EVENING REPUBLIC AN« RENSSELAER, INP-

But the Puritan colonists in New England were more strict. The famous Connecticut “Blue Laws forbade anyone under the age of twentyone to smoke, and no one of any age could smoke without a license from the court and a physician’s certificate that tobacco would be useful for him. Under the restoration smoking became unfashionable, the pipe being ousted from the stylish world by the snuff box, although it still continued universally popular among humbler folk. Smoking was regarded as “low” or provincial until well into the reign of Queen Victoria. When the prince regent died in 1830, he left not a cellar of wine but a “cellar of snuff, which was sold to a tobacconist for $20,000. Lord Petersham, famous among dandies, made a wonderful collection of snuffs and snuff boxes, and was fastidious in his choice of a box to carry. Once when a light Sevres snuff box which Lord Petersham was using* was admired, the noble owner replied, with a gentle lisp: “Yes, it is a nice summer box —but would certainly be inappropriate for- winter wear.” The revival of smoking in the fashionable world, where tobacco had so long been in bad odor except in the form of snuff, was due to the introduction of the cigar, imported into England from Spain and the Spanish colonies. British officers possibly brought the cigar back with them from the peninsular wars. * Only a few of the daring persons ventured to adopt the cigar at first, and between 1824 and 1830 there was only a wretched smoking room at the Athenaeum club in London, Doctor Hawtree, on behalf of the house committee, announcing that “no gentleman smokes.” To add further odious touch to his hideous dwarf, Quilip, Dickens made him a cigar smoker; Lord Rawdon, in “Vanity Fair,” was significantly a smoker of cigars.

However, in the bohemian set, including authors and poets, smoking was common. Carlyle was a great smoker, and the story is familiar that one evening he and Tennyson sat for hours in solemn silence smoking their pipes, one on each side of the fireplace; and that, as the visitor arose to go, Carlyle, bidding him good-night, said: “Man, Alfred, we hae had a graund nicht; co*e again soon.” In tbo course of a trip to Italy with friends, Tennyson found he could not obtain his favorite brand of tobacco, packed up his portmanteau and returned home, breaking up the party. Charles Lamb remarked that he hoped his last breath would be inhaled through a pipe and exhaled in a pun. The cigar was aided in reviving the habit by the introduction of the first wooden pipes in England in 1859, and the first cigarettes in about 1860. These seem astonishingly recent dates, but the author vouches for both. The word “briar” has no connection with the prickly thorny briar of England, but is derived from the French term, “bruyere,” meaning the white heath plant from the roots of which the pipes are made. Laurence Oliphant, a man both of letters and fashion, is generally credited -with having first introduced cigarettes into English society. They became fashionable in about 1870, and had a revolutionary effect on smoking among women. Those of the lower classes had frequently been pipe smokers, but. in society the ladies, perhaps for physical reasons, never took up either pipe or cigar to any extent. The cigarettes offered them a milder anjl more delicate means of sharing man’s delight in the weed. “In the twentieth century," the author says, “tobacco is once more triumphant. The cycle of 300 years is complete. Since the early decades of the seventeenth century, smoking has never been so smiled upon by fashion as it is at the present time.”

There is nothing opprobrious in “Ruski,” and something positively caressing in “fuzzy-wuzzy,” the English nickname for the brave but misguided Soudanese. “Guppy” suggests goodnatured contempt. The Boer "roolnek” and “Brodrick” are familiar, but not insulting.—London Tit-Bits.

Nugget of Truth.

It is much easier for a bad man to live down to his reputation than it is for a good man to live up to his—as well as more usual- *

STYLES IN BLOUSES

WIDE CHOICE BOTH IN MATERIALS AND FABHIONING. Georgette Crepe Continues a Close Second to Chiffon In Favor — White Silk Net Much Used by Smart Dressmakers. Ever since the mill people learned to make chiffon cloth that was trans-. parent and serviceable, women have gladly accepted it for blouses. Often they adopt the French trick of putting in a shoulderless lining of flesh-colored or white lace* and this, like many other things founded on the French knowledge of thrift and economy, keeps the garment in better condition and makes it give longer service. This lining is loose and is made like a deep girdle, and instead

Dainty Blouse of White Organdie With Collar and Cuffs Embroidered in Light Blue.

of attaching it in even the flimsiest way to the outside fabric, it is better to give it shoulder straps of narrow, flesh-colored satin ribbon. As a rival to chiffon cloth, georgette crepe has proven the most successful fabrlo. Its predecessors were failures, but it serves the need. It will remain In fashion as far ahead as a prophet can see, and yet It is having to share the honors of the hour with several other fabrics that have been brought to the front. Fine, colored muslins, solid and

DECORATION FOR SOFT SILKS

Many Ideas Have Been Put Forward, Some Highly Decorative and Some in Quieter Forms. # Quaint medallions and bouquets and prim little baskets of flowers are scattered over the surface of soft silks. Rings of several colors and of irregular shapes are dropped at widely spaced intervals over other silks, and on others highly decorative patterns are used. . Lovely georgette crepes have baskets of flowers scattered over the surface. A fine taffeta broche which combines crispness and softness in just the right degree is ornamented with a little flower which never grew on land or sea. Stripes are very fashionable and are cleverly used. Gay-patterned linings are used in coats and suits. Delicate organdie embroideries are used in a number of dainty ways; many are lightly touched in color, especially old blue and delicate rose. Embroidered nets touched in color are used for entire frocks as well as for trimmings.

MAKE WORK FOR LAUNDRESS

Tub Petticoats With Colored Rirffies Are to Be the Correct Things for the Summer Garments.

Six yards is the correct width for a summer petticoat this season and one cannot help pitying the poor laundress who has had a long and blessed rest from starching and fluting crisp petticoat frills. Some petticoats to be sure own to but three yards, but these are the most inexpensive and humble models. As the price advances the width advances, and the number of frills also. Four ruffles of embroidery, overlapping from knee to hem, is a pretty trimming; especially when the embroidery is the fine scallop-and-dot kind always in good taste. A new petticoat which is already very popular has four ruffles of fine lawn edged with narrow handkerchief hems in some pretty color*>and the ruffles are stitched to the petticoat with colored threads to match. With pink or blub

LATEST TOUCH OF FASHION

Tight, Pointed Silk Bodice, With Voluminous Organdie Bkirt, Is One of the Season's Successes. Marie Tempest was among the first women to adopt the tight, pointed silk bodice with the voluminous organdie skirt. This fashion has gained followers ever since ih« exploited it. Women have found in the fashion a reversal from the commonplace that pleases them. Even if one has a large waist, this tight bodice does not disclose it in an unattractive manner, for- the, significant artistic reason that ft dips itself into the outstanding drapery of the gkirt. It is slightly pointed in front.

striped, are in the forefroiit of fashion, and white and colored organdies, which have bedn so extensively used for neckwear, have been cordially taken up by the makers of blouses, The plain white organdie waists art embroidered with one or more colors, sometimes in the simple and everpleasing design of scallops, again in polka dots and triangles of brilliant red and blue, green, black, and yellow. Because polka-dot frocks are in fashion, we will be able to wear separate blouses of polka-dot fabrics with the pleased feeling that we are quite in the middle of the picture. Taffeta and satin are not looked upon with any degree of warmth, but taffeta 1b applied to chiffon and then embroidered in gold and silver, to build up an ornate blouse. White silk net of such a thinness of weave that one is caused to mistake it for tulle, has crept downward in the scale of dressing from a ball gown to a blouse. Its acceptance by the smart dressmakers for this purpose leads the way for the new nets that have come over from France for gowns, such as point d’esprit and the net with the square or dot woven in it. The former is especially attractive for a blouse to be worn with a thin serge or silk suit. Everyone knows by this time that the smartest of French blouses drops over the skirt instead of going under it, after the manner of a miniature Russian blouse. Cheruit sent this out in white organdie, with a sash of colored silk, and it has led the way for a dozen other conceptions by our own dressmakers. ' ’ One of the most successful ways in which it has been copied is in colored silk jersey, touched up with a simple embroidered design in other brilliant colors, and held in by a wide belt of knitted silk like a man’s cravat, fastened with a large, oblong silver buckle. Some of these blouses are in white with a Pierrot design of black embroidery, but others, intended for country wear, are of yellow, turquoise blue, and apple green. They fasten down the left side in a straight line from shoulder to hem and have a loose, mufflerlike collar and also fastens at the side, under the left ear. ,■ The majority of the sleeves are long in the summer blouses, as well as loose, and end in an ornamental cuff. They are Just as apt to have a high neck as a low neck. (Copyright, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

edged frills and stitching, these new tub petticoats are really enchanting.

GORGEOUS EVENING GOWN

Evening gowns for the young miss will be a gorgeous blending of harmonious colors. This charming frock for evening wear Is modeled especially for the budding debutante. The gown has a bodice of heavy taffeta In rich tones of red, purple and yellow, which create a mingling of color pleasing to the eye. The skirt Is of pale yellow chiffon and is supported by hoops. Bands of silver, over the shoulders and from the waist give the gown a dainty finish.

and often at the back, or the entire lower edge is cut into battlements —a touch of the Elizabethan era that was brought out with the Sir Walter Raleigh ruff, the queen’s farthingale, and the Amy Robsart sleeve.

Untidy Coiffure.

When little scraggly ends of hair hang down over your collar all you need is a good brush, some back combs and a little perseverance to make them stay up with the rest. When arranging your coiffure brush these ends up briskly and then place two back combs where they are needed. A few invisible hairpins will also conspire against widow locks.

HELP FOR WORKING WOMEN Some Have to Keep on Until They Almost Drop. How Mrs. Conley Got Help. Hera is a letter from a woman who had to work, bat was too weak and suffered too much to continue. How she regained health; — Frankfort, Ky.—“ I suffered so much with female weakness that I could not Irjyrrrr do my own work* IHJII had to hire it done. BnL I beard so much MH about Lydia E.Pinkham’s Vegetable ra|| Compound that I E|; : - 1 tried it. I took three bottles and I found it to be all yoa (Htt. claim. Now I feel as si&ll&i 1 wel l 4B ever I did and - ,I am able to do all my own work again. 1 recommend it to any woman suffering from female weakness. You may publish my letter if you wish. ’ ’—Mrs. Jamßß Conley, 6l6 St Clair SL,Frankfort,Ky. No woman suffering from any form of female troubles should lose hope until she has given Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound a fair trial. This famous remedy, the medicinal Ingredients of which are derived from native roots and herbs, has for forty years proved to be a most valuable tonic and in vigors tor of the female organism. All women are invited to writ© to the Lydia EL Pinkham Medicine Co., Lynn, Mass., for special advice,—it will be confidential^ The Army of Constipation Is Growing Smaller Every Day. CARTER'S LITTLE LIVER PILLS are °T e v g ‘ ve -" ef ABlgCaRTER's they perma jIKHjPKgHi nij.i r nentlycure Con-^gjaaiw B wr’n itipation. Mil 0 pLY? lions use MPILLS. them for | Bilioaineif, ’ Indigestion, Sick Headache, Sallow Skin. SMALL PILL, SMALL DOSE, SMALL PRICE. Genuine must bear Signature

Watch Wasn’t Necessary.

The colonel of a certain regiment in Kitchener’s army is a great stickler for obedience, instant and complete. “Smith,” he said to his orderly recently, “I want you to ride down to the railway station and get me the correct time.” Smith shuffled his feet and fiddled with his flngerß. “Well, man,” roared the officer Irately, “why don’t you do as you are told?” “Please, sir,” replied the orderly meekly, “I haven’t a watch.” “A watch—a watch!” snapped the colonel. “What d’ye want a watch for? Just write It down on a bit of paper.

His Reason.

Moved to pity at the sight of a small boy lugging a monstrous bundle of newspapers, a man stopped and asked: “Don’t all those papers make you tired?” “Nope,” the little newsie replied cheerfully. “I can’t read.”—Pathfinder. c

The Great Objection.

“Don’t you dislike the man who insists on hearing himself talk?” “No,” replied Miss Cayenne; “not unless he compels other people to listen.” , -\

A man may be lucky because he is married —or because he isn’t.

Concentrated Satisfaction A great many former users of tea and coffee have learned that there is a pure food beverage made from wheat, which has a delightful flavor. It never exacts of its users the tribute of sleeplessness, heart-flutter, headache and other ills often caused by the drug, caffeine, in coffee and tea. Instant Postum suggests the snappy flavor of mild java coffee, but is absolutely free from caffeine or any harmful ingredient Instant Postum is in condensed, soluble form, and wonderfully convenient for die homo —for the picnic for travel —everywhere. If tea or coffee interferes with comfort or success, as it does for many users, tty a shift to Postum. “ There’s a Reason”