Evening Republican, Volume 20, Number 110, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 8 May 1916 — FASHIONS’ EDICTS [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FASHIONS’ EDICTS

INSTRUCTIONS AND ADVICE BY JULIA BOTTOMLEY

SUMMER FROCK OF DOTTED ORGANDIE Organdie is just sheer and wiry enough to make the tucked and ruffled frocks of today seem the daintiest and most girlish that were ever fashioned. It is made in all the wanted light colors, as well as in white, and may be had with dots or threadlike stripes ior crossbars over its surface. It is more sheer than voile or crepe and airier than net —altogether a material for the girl graduate to glory in. Ah ideal model for an organdie frock Is shown in the picture. The material is exactly suited to the design and the design is exactly suited to the youthful maids who neeg a frilly dress for graduation or for any other unusual occasion. It is made with a full skirt gathered in at the waist-line. Where a narrow belt joins it to the full bloused bodice. The skirt opens in a short, placket at the left side. Six frills, each two and a half inches in width, are set on the skirt, with the distance be-

AN UNUSUAL NEW BLOUSE Here is pictured a blouse which contrives to be unusual merely by means of its odd ’construction. Its designer has taken his cue from those who have made coats this season so successfully by departing from all precedent in cutting them. In this blouse of lace, with raised flowers in velvet, the -sleeves and back are in one piece. It is lined with white chiffon, and draped, collared, and cuffed with black satin. Very much the same effect would result if the blouse were cut with a regulation raglan sleeve, and the model suggests ’the effectiveness of printed chiffons made up in this way. The deep cuffs and drapery of satin will prove useful in harmonizing the blouse with a particular skirt, or they may be of black, whatever the colors in the chiffon. The blouse as pictured is worn with • skirt as black taffeta. It’is one of many in which two materials are combined to make an overblouse to be

tween them a little greater than the width of the frills. These frills may be set on the skirt with machine-made hemstitching, and they may be edged with it. Or the narrowest of lace edgings and insertions may be used instead. The bodice has full sleeves reaching to the elbow, where a frill is set on. It opens in a V at the front and is finished with a fichu, bordered with two frills. There is a girdle of wide soft ribbon with hanging loops and short ends at the back. If one were to search the history of the modes seeking an inspiration, in designing a frock for a youthful wearer, nothing better than this could be found. Nothing quite so good if organdie is the material to be used. Having arrived at the frills and the fichus of 1830, what more could be wished for? A taffeta petticoat with a net flounce, or a petticoat of lawn, should be worn over a skirt of heavier muslin, with frocks of this kind.

worn over a crepe or chiffon under blouse when the fabrics are tnansparent A combination of plain crepe georgette and plaid taffeta, or one of satin and crepe, is more to be desired than a blouse of one material, since combinations of two or more fabrics are characteristic of the present season. A pretty import Was made with a yoke having a round neck of taffeta. This yoke was trimmed into points over the sleeves, and in the middle of the front and back, midway between the points in the front, it was extended into two tabs. The remainder of the blouse was of georgette crepe laid in fine tucks where it was set onto the yoke. The tabs of taffeta were slipped through slashes cuf in the crepe just pver the bust Their ends were polnt«d.Md Jlnialied with, embroidery.. Very deep cuffs of taffeta finished the sleeves. A narrow galloon outlined the round neck and the flaring cuffs. A collar, high at the back, and cuffs of organdie completed this example of French elaboration. It buttoned down the front