Evening Republican, Volume 19, Number 251, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 22 October 1915 — BACK TO OLD FASHION [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

BACK TO OLD FASHION

•CAMS ARE AGAIN CONSIDERED IN HEIGHT OF STYLE. Rawnt Change In Opinion Is Most Marked, and Has Much to Recommend It—Some New Ideas in Sleeve Models. The new fashions do not Insist upon the darts which giro the bust prominence and outline a strong curve toward the small waipt, because there Is too much orientalism in clothes yet to allow of a small waist, but the shoulders are fitted and the chest Is smoothly covered. The shoulders are often made more narrow In appearance by a drooping line or a cap to which the sleeve Is gathered; but nothing must take away from the attenuated back that Is made to look smaller by reason of several seams running from shoulder to waist or hips, If the garment Is a coat. There is no longer any prejudice against seams. What would have been considered too old-fashioned for anything except the family album Is now very good style. Another accepted fashion of recent years that must be avoided is' the three-quarter sleeve. No matter for what hour the garment is intended during the day, the sleeve must be long. There’s no uncertainty there. It may be full or tight, leg-o’-mutton or prelate, cuffed with muffs of fur, or finished with a silk cord;, its style depends upon the type of blouse, and Its length depends upon the present law. 1 There is no tendency to allow the least evidence of fullness at the wrist; whatever the width at the elbow —and it is usually considerable —

Biscuit-Colored Velvet, With Seal Collar and Cuffs, Belt and Pockets Embroidered in Gold. the wrist part fastens In as snugly as a glove. Happily this is so, for it is one of the best lines a woman can adopt if she wants her hand to look well. The sleeve that is gathered to a small cap at the shoulder, bulges out

over the elbow and is held in below is the one that the majority of French designers have sent over. It has taken the place of the bellshaped sleeve which was featured last winter in coats and frocks. That style is out, unless it is occasionally used on a luxurious long topcoat of velvet or fur. The eighteenth century sleeve, which is made of white batiste or organdie and ends with a frill over the hand, held in place by a tight bracelet of black velvet ribbon, is returned to fashion; it is used on that new kind of winter house frocks which Mme. Joire of the house of Paqiiin accentuates, made of taffeta and organdie, of velvet and organdie. These sleeves are placed in a jumper blouse of blue or black taffeta, and there is a wide band of the same summerlike material on the skirt or edging the ends of the sash.