Evening Republican, Volume 19, Number 219, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 15 September 1915 — French Knots, Feather-Stitching and Embroidery [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

French Knots, Feather-Stitching and Embroidery

Here is one of the newest things in gowns. It has distinguished itself by proving to be one of the “best sellers” among many competitors in a large assemblage of medium-priced lingerie. This is a testimonial to the return to high favor of all the simpler forms of decorative needle work. Everywhere, in lingerie, in dresses and even in millinery, ornamental needlework is in evidence. All the pretty, old-fashioned fancy stitches—the “feather-stitching," “catstitching,” "herringbone,” “smocking” and “buttonhole stitching” that disappeared to make way for showier trimmings. are coming back. They are more lasting than the pretty (but somewhat fragile) cheap laces and they have the elegance of handwork — which is always worth while. The gown shown here is made of nainsook. Twice the length of the figure measured from the neck to the feet and six inches more —allowed for hemming—is required to make it The material is folded crosswise in the center and the neck opening cut out. The sides are sloped gradually inward and then out to the edge of the material- to form the short sleeves.

At each side of the middle front a group of eight short tucks is run. The neck opening is hemmed with a very narrow hem, to which a strong beading is whipped. This is finished with a narrow val edging. The same edging is sewed to the. edges of the sleeves, which are slashed at the top to the depth of six inches. At the head of the slash there is a group of six tiny tucks and just below them a pretty ribbon bow is tacked. Feather-stitching done with mercerised cotton floss extends across the front of the gown. A row of French knots on each small flower form, done in outline stitch, adds a final needlework touch. Sometimes an initial or a monogram is outlined in small letters at the center of the front When narrow lingerie ribbon is run in the beading and tied in a bow at the front the gown is ready for use. Those who make hand-crocheted laces or tatting can further add to the elegance and good wearing qualities of their lingerie by substituting their handiwork for the machine-made laced commonly used.