Evening Republican, Volume 19, Number 196, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 19 August 1915 — STYLES FOR THE FALL [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

STYLES FOR THE FALL

PARIB OPENINGS PUT OFF UNTIL FIRBT OF AUGUST. Flattened Hips Hinted at In Advance Models—Silver Lining to Overshadowing Cloud of Full Bkirts. The majority of the leading houses In Paris put off the dress openings of the season until the first of this month, although we were promised all the news of clothes by the second week of July. What the reason was for the change in dates —whether the paucity of American buyers in Paris early in the month of July, or the difficulty of getting ready a new set of models after the manufacturers had depleted the first set —is of little importance to the question at large; the result is very satisfying to those buyers and sellers who want new clothes for the winter and not for the summer. The one thing that the specialists strive for is to get their frocks before the public who wants the last thing from Paris and open the way for the manufacturers to copy these styles at once; the sooner the better, for the moment a French style is run to ground, the specialists have the chance to sell a new and complete set of fashions to the world of women who will no longer wear a style that

is selling for fifteen dollars through the cheaper ready-to-wear departments. There are manufacturers’ models in plenty in America already. Those who sell to the trade that pours into New York in July to get the fall materials, hats and gowns must be served. Why that flood does not wait until September is not a question for an amateur to settle by an answer. There are certain dressmakers, catering to a large trade that does not dwell in or near New York, who also hurry home with a few models, buy others from the manufacturers, and get their autumn business oft their hands almost before one knows that October is coming. This variety of clothes has been

on the market since July and the people who copy each acceptable fashion in large quatities are already at work. Soon the shops will offer them as the first and most authoritative ideas in winter fashions. Whether or not they prove to be all that their agents'claim for them is a doubt that will hot deter hundreds of women from buying them, because they are at hand and fall clothes are always needed as soon as the first chill makes it* appearance, except by those lucky ones who always find a suit or a frock left over from the preceding season, which happens to fill the first necessity* There is a strong tendency in each of the fashions that are advanced as forerunners of what is to come in October toward flattened hips. For the last few months we have grown quite large in that spot; we have avoided any appearance of slimness and given ourselves over to gathers and plaits at the waist line. This fashion was deplored by all but the excessively slender, yet as all the models called for a certain amount of fullness from waist to ankles there seemed no other way to arrive at it except through a wide circular skirt, a cut to which the majority of women objected. The latter method of cutting the skirt, however, is the one that is advanced today and the unevenness of the hem, which is sure to result, is offset by accentuating it and using cord or plaiting as an edge. To quiet the rebellion against this kind of skirt among the larger number of women the Spanish flounce has been revived on all kinds of skirts, or rather on skirts made of various materials. Organdie, broadcloth, gaberdine, velvet, batiste nad satin are thC fabrics that show this deep ruffle; it gives the necessary fullness at the knees without increasing the girth around the hips.

It may not matter very much how one achieves that line of slimness at the hips and width at the ankles; the main thing is to be well assured of the silhouette and then work it out through any channel one desires. It is in just this divergence of method makers have a chance of success. There is a silver lining to the cloud of full skirts if these individual treatments are welcomed; especially will the incoming of the deep flounce with the smooth hip line please the women who have looked unpleasantly abnormal in the skirts that were gathered about the waist. As to the frankly circular skirt which is growing in favor among those who decide on the fashions, there is a silver cloud to It also. A band of some kind of opposing, fabric is dropped below the uneyen edge of the hem which frames It in, or rather gives it a straight selvedge. The introduction of this redeeming feature has turned discouragement into optimism. It may be possible, after all, say many, to wear a circular skirt with confidence in its behavior, something that has been impossible since circular skirts were invented.

In the prevailing taffeta frocks that will be worn without coats on warm days and with them on chill days, the skirts are scalloped, not unduly, the edges corded, and the uneven line held together by a five-inch band of double net which is slightly gathered and steadied on its lower edge by a thick cord of the taffeta. If you are not familiar with this method of finishing an uneven skirt hem it is quite worth your while to try it. The effect is good because the skirt has the appearance of being actually finished; the ragged edge does not always give this. (Copyright, 1915, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.) ~

Wine Colored Cloth Suit Trimmed With Black Batin.