Evening Republican, Volume 19, Number 56, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 8 March 1915 — IN THE NEW WEAVES [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

IN THE NEW WEAVES

MATERIALS SIMPLIFY PROBLEM OF TRIMMING. Greatest Parisian Designer of Costumes Has Decreed That Ruffles Shall Be a Feature of the Coming Season. , ‘ " V Any weave of good voile will make a serviceable spring gown, suitable for many occasions and differing climates. In dark blue it is trimmed with a softcolored border that may be used as a finish to the long tunic, for cuffs or for the collar. There is a new silk out, by the way, in deep dark blue on which is a printed border in deep red and a bright tone of blue. This aids the dressmaker in a most gratifying way to solve the problem of trimming. If we are to wear simple lines, khd to depend on our original material for our effects, then we may often be in despair as to how to get in our color. Not only long tunics with borders, but ruffles are to be worn. Worth is making both. The world has looked to the House of Worth for stately lines, not frivolities; it has been the

apostle of the dignified woman rather than the jaunty one. During these gay years women have accused the Worths of making them look old, a crime that few dressmakers can survive, and there have been times when this house has not enjoyed popularity. Even the American buyers have not paid much attention to its models during the last three seasons; the reason always was that women wanted more frivolous, more conspicuous, clothes than Worth gave them. But the house had a decided success last season. One or two of his models were more widely copied, perhaps, than any other evening gowns during the winter. 'So this season he has gone in for ruffles as a real novelty or. bid for attention. The statement may not sound strange to one who does not know the line for which each house is famous, but, really, it is a strange conjunction: Worth and ruffles! None of the flounces on these skirts is straight. They go across the figure on the bias. This gives the dipping line which is so generally becoming to the majority of American

figures with their suggestion of squareness. One of the novelties in evening frocks, not, however, made by Worth, is flounces of white tulle edged with pink worsted embroidery. These coarse threads of crewel are also used on chiffon, on voile, on silk. Taffeta frocks have worsted flowers at the waist, at the end of a sash, as a border to the hem, and one shop offers a frock of dark blue silk with its tunic bordered with short yellow and blue worsted fringe. It is easy to see that the constant knitting by the women all over the world this winter has suggested the idea. The prevalence of mourning in Europe has brought from the manufacturers a large assortment of mingled black and white materials. The new silks have large and widely separated black flowers on a white ground. The broad striping of the directoire has returned and black coat suits are made with long pointed waistcoats of it. There are also separate coats of it above skirts of plain black silk, or cloth.

Evening Wrap of Black Velvet and Green and Black Striped Velvet, With a Narrow Fur Collar—Design Sent From Paris by Lafeviere.