Evening Republican, Volume 19, Number 50, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 1 March 1915 — BAR All GAY COLORS [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

BAR All GAY COLORS

FRENCH LEADERS OF FASHION Declare for somberness. World Is Likely to Fall Into Lina— Tones of All the New Spring < Shades Show Subdued EffectSome Early Hints.

That Paris will present many of Its models in black is well understood, although for the American openings there will be the colors that no city in Europe considers today; also, it is established that the garish combinations to which Paris has been overprone during the last three years have vanished for a time, at least, because these colors are the children of a reckless and slightly decadent era, as every student of dress history knows, and the world is sad, serious and virile today. There is no doubt that the entire world will follow the lead of France and garb itself in demure colors, if not in black. The tones of all the new spring shades show this subdued effect and one feels respectfully toward the fashion, knowing the heartache in which it was born. Blues, pinks, yellows are quiet in shading, grays have leaped to the front, and the tones of red used are so obviously inspired by the uniforms of those at the front that they, too, have a sinister and sober significance. Black will even prevail in tea gowns which are usually brilliant. A smart tea gown that has been sent over as a sketch is in black satin, an innovation, as everyone must admit. It is cut on dignified medieval lines with a piece of itself shaped in from the back to be adjusted in the front as a girdle, caught by a great diamond of cut jet which drops strands like tears toward the floor. There is a cape of black chantilly lace flowing freely over the back and shoulders, forming sleeves in keeping with the puffed sleeves that were tentatively shown in the early winter. Evidently there is to be a radical change in evening sleeves, so it is wise to be prepared for it. It does not come about through a revolt against the sleeveless bodice, but is due to a progression of ideas along the same epochal line. Another sketch sent over shows a polonaise of orange-colored velvet opening over the skirt made from two silver lace ruffles. At, or rather above the waist line there is an immense butterfly worked in rhinestones and jet. The decolletage is V-shaped and is a part of the orange velvet polonaise, and it, too, has a deep flounce to serve as a sleeve. One of the best houses sends a sketch for a new coat suit which has

two distinguishing features; the skirt is not wide and the coat Is laced down the side from shoulder to well below the waist line with a heavy gold cord. The suit is of green cloth such as the Belgian officers wear. The eyelets are conspicuously large and bound with green velvet. The long, small sleeves have flaring -cuffs and above these they are laced with the gold cord that drops in small tassels at the back. There is a full peplum attached

to the long-waisted coat, the joining outlined by three rows of stitching. Each garment, as yon see, has a smart new feature, and one- that any of us are able to incorporate into clothes that we contemplate having in the near future. (Copyright, McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

Small Blue Velvet Hat.