Evening Republican, Volume 19, Number 18, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 21 January 1915 — Along Peace River [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Along Peace River

THE PEACE river was first brought to the notice of the world by Alexander Mackenzie. Not satisfied with following to the Arctic ocean the river which bears his name, he went up the Peace river, crossed the Rocky mountains and made his way to the Pacific ocean, which he reached in September, 1793. The previous winter he had spent at Fort MacLeod, built for his convenience, and afterwards continued as a trading post. Fort MacLeod is located on the north side of Peace river, six miles above Peace River Crossing, and nearly opposite the mouth of Smoky river. Last summer the American museum sent an expedition up into that country, and the trip up and down the Peace river Is entertainingly described by Pliny E. Goddard in the American Museum Journal. After telling something of the changes in trade routes and of the preliminary journey front Edmonton to Peace River Crossing, he continues: The Grenfell, the little river boat that was to take us downstream, had steam up and dinner cooked when we arrived- About two that afternoon we crossed the Peace and took on several cords of wood. With a whistle to jeer at the company’s boat which had ex-

pected to pull out before us and did not, w-e moved downstream. The little Grenfell could make about fourteen miles, and the river itself was making eight because the water was very high. It was liquid mud carrylng driftwood and logs—even whole trees. The sun slowly moved from south to west, from west to northwest, and then was hidden behind the river banks. That it had set we could not be certain, for there was plenty' of light until about eleven o’clock, when we tied up to the banks so the engineer could sleep. Islands Are Numerous. The river is full of islands. In the 300 miles there are about two hundred of them, covered with pine and spruce timber. As we proceeded the banks grew lower and the river wider. That night we tied up at North Vermilion and went down to the river bank instead of up, the river was so high. Here, 600 miles from the railroad, there are two little communities ot whites and half breeds, one on either side of the river. They get mail once a month and are glad to get it, al-

though it Is usually two months old when it arrives. The whites are wellread, well-educated, and have the true northern hospitality. The half-breeds form a class by themselves. They read a little French, but prayer books and catechisms are all that are available to them in French. Only a few of them have been as far from home as Edmonton, the others consider Vermilion the center of the earth. • With Vermilion as a base six weeks were spent in ethnological work. Dur Ing this -time a trifP was made to a trading post on Hay river on the occasion of “treaty paying.” Nearly all the Indians of Canada receive cash payments from the Dominion government once a year. A band of Slavey TnrHnritt practically untouched by ctv'flixation except as to dress, trade at

this post, which Is 700 miles from the railroad by the usual route of travel The Beaver Indians, who hunt be tween Hay river and the Peace, are greatly reduced in numbers and considerably influenced by more than a century of contact with white and halfbreed traders and servants Of the fur company. Slow Trip Upstream. Returning upstream Vermilion to St. John in August was another matter as regards speed. The current was not quite so strong, but the steamer belonged to the Hudson Bay company. The ways of the company are still the old ways of the north. There must be a French-Cree word for manana since the thing itself certainly exists. The boat was comfortable, however, the weather perfect and the companionship excellent. It took three weeks to reach Fort St. John, where from the river banks, 900 feet high, the Rocky mountains are to be seen. The first of civilization In the persons of several young settlers went to St. John with us. Here also are remnants of once powerful Beaver tribes, who in early days burned the trading post and killed the traders. As treaty had been paid considerably in advance of the advertised date, the Indians were

nearly all back from the river secur ing food for the winter. A week’s stay was.made at Dunvegan, some miles from which place a band of Beaver live on the reserve. Near them were several prosperous agricultural settlements. Many Bear* After Berries. Coming back to Peace River Crossing was pleasant and should have been easy. If one sits down on a raft or in a canoe and sits still he will quietly pass the 240 miles from St John to Peace River Crossing. Our luck was a canoe loaned to us. Because it was the homeward journey the natural speed of the current, three miles, was increased to five or six by the use of the paddles. It is tiresome work, but a few days of it puts a large share of conceit into one when he tries his muscles against a loafer. Yes, there were bears, there always are on the Peace. This was the time of ripe berries and there were manybears. We know that they, Indianlike, must have “made medicine” against us, for nothing else could have prevented our killing one.

We were very happy when Sunday night at eleven o’clock, two hours after darkness had come in the early days of September, we paddled our canoe alongside the company’s boat Peace River. Kind friends helped us unload. A cheery fire in the saloon, a cupful of tea, and welcoming smiles soon drove out the cold and 1 stiffness accumulated since five in the morning. .This was at the end of the telegraph line Will the North pass as our West has passed? Even when the Peace river Is settled as it soon will be, there will remain a vast fur-bearing region, but that the peculiar types of white people and Indians with their present customs and manners can long survive ft -aquestion.andtheymakethe real North.