Evening Republican, Volume 18, Number 266, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 10 November 1914 — GIVES TOO WIDE LINE [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GIVES TOO WIDE LINE

NEW BKIRT NOT PLEABINQ TO THE LARGE WOMAN. Accentuates Size, and Is Hard to Handle Property—Chemise-Like Bodice la to Continue in Fashion, It Appears.

No other style has teen invented that could make the large woman- appear so large as the new skirts with their plainly drawn back, their widely flaring circular sides and front, or sometimes a plaited front dividing the circular sides. You can qutekty see what a wide line is given across the figure, back and front. The front is able to stand it better than the back.'

Another error* that is easily fallen into, is a swinging upward movement of the middle front of such & .skirt. This ugliness happens even under the hands of the best regulated dressmakera'.' The weight and fullness of the material causes this sagging at the sides and back and, although one does not object to an irregular hem, it must come through foreknowledge and not through bad workmanship.

None of the dressmakers advocate fullness over the hips. Here and there one sees isolated cases of hip drapery, but the newest fashions do not call for it. In all the test gowns for street and evening, the hips are flattened out

' ■ V-.\T as though they had been pressed with a hot iron. This is to accentuate the fullness at knees and hem. There are various ways of obtaining the desired flatness. It is not all a question of hip yokes. There are box plaits running from waist, to hem; there are tofig pointed segments of cloth that Fun nearly to knees which divide the fullness and keep it away from the hips; there are plastered bits of barbaric embroidery from which

spring circular sides that flare at the hem. Each of tho French dressmakers has a different way of maintaining smoothness just below the waist, and to these original methods the Americans have added. of the fashions that France introduced last June is the foundation stone of all the clothes of today. This is the long, straight upper part of the gown which sometimes develops into a tunic, or which ends at the wide sash placed over the hips. « There is nothing strikingly new about this chemise-like bodice, for It has been worn continuously for three months, but the dressmakers exploited it in the new clothes and we shall doubtless wear it until Christmas. If anything newer is invented, it will probably come from an American atelier, for there is no reason to suppose that France will produce new ideas in the nearby months; there are quite enough over here now to satisfy even the most exacting woman. It is probable that this long, childlike garment—for it really is juvenile —which has slim simplicity as its foundation, and is called Moyen-age for want of a better term, will prove an obstacle to a good appearance as much as the over full skirts will do, but if care is taken with it, and attention paid to the. way it is cut and trimmed, the general result will not be as bad as prophesied. One sees the garment in every fabric, and it will be unfortunate K one sees it on every figure. It, like all the fashions for the last four years, is primarilybintended for the modern figure that has been developed through fashion, or the other way around —no one knows which. 'Copyright, McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

The green serge skirt of the frock Illustrated makes its claim to newness by reason of the group of width-giving tucks at the side, and the black-braid-ed velvet tunio by its absence of a waist line.