Evening Republican, Volume 18, Number 227, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 25 September 1914 — STYLE IN UNDERDRESS [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

STYLE IN UNDERDRESS

PETTICOAT 18 AGAIN TO BE . given consideration.

Popularity , bf the Dance Responsible for Return of Garment Once Con- . sidered Indispensable—Chiffon Favored as Material, By MART DEAN. Though petticoats have in recent seasons shrunk almost, and sometimes quite, to the vanishing point, they are again in favor and are one of the most important items in the wardrobe of the modish woman. The popularity of- the new dances 'has brought about the change. The slit skirt which is necessary to give freedom of movement when dancing calls for a petticoat which must be

equally as attractive as the gown •with which it is worn, and sometimes, indeed, it is even more so. The peracoat that is to be worn with dance frocks is likely to have a foundation of some soft silken material. This foundation fits like a glove but widens toward the bottom to admit of freedom of move-

ment when dancing, unless the silken jaaterikl way altogether to an accordion flounce of net over chiffon, of .chiffon or of lace. When the foundation is continued to the skirt bottom a diaphanous flounce is often set on over this soft narrow foundation, but the flounce without the plain under section affords more freedom. When there is no flounce at all, not even of the scantiest and most subdued sort, the skirt is slit at the sides or back, and inset with accordionpleated chiffon or shadow lace, and shows flatly applied trimming, panels outlined by inset lace or piping and adorned by inset motifs and tiny flounces. A smart little model of this last class was cut up the sides for com-

Jl ... V?-y.:4fc' ‘ ■: JJBfc?:... fort’s sake and trimmed about ths edges with a narrow net frill following the curved corners and wound the skirt bottom. About twelve inches above a line of the plaited net raa straight around the skirt. At the sides there were inset accordion plaiting of the net These were inset with motifs of lace outlined by tiny flounces, and the narrowest of-net frill. There are many variations upon, flounce trimming, and some very charming evening* petticoats have narrow flounces, set at intervals with insertion and shirrings. For instance, one petticoat had a foundation of white crepe de chine; attached to this foundation ware three' flounces of shadow lace, flared ai intervals, headed by two-inch panel insertions of shadow lace.

There were two band shirrings of chiffon and the frills of lace were also headed by a line of small roses. Another charming petticoat had a flounce made up of serpentine insertion. Lace motifs and inset shirrings

of chiffon, ribbon and flowers were also included in the trimming. The ribbon' 1 ran’ through eyelets in the chiffon and ended in a flat bow, at one side. One skirt of pink chiffon had a deep flounce of f* 'ow lace trimwith lines of flowers runaround the flounce in zigzag shape. A

narrow lace frill trimmed the bottom of the skirt. . Early in the season many of the shops which made a specialty of fine' lingerie, showed petticoats of chiffon which had a little more fullness than usual at the top and were shirred on to a rubber waist' band. The skirts opened down the front with small steel clasps close to the bottom. The fullness of the skirt was held in by a rubber band which encircled the skirt about six inches from the bottom. These shops also showed the danc ing gaiters' made of deep flounces «i plaited chiffon or fine shadow lacei shirred on to an elastic band. The elastic band was plated just below the knee.

White Chiffon.

Chiffon and Lace.