Evening Republican, Volume 18, Number 219, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 16 September 1914 — "LAYING OFF" IN HAWAII [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

"LAYING OFF" IN HAWAII

by KATHERINE POPE

I J-. 1 j—Tl HE planters use the term as freely as Ll the dinner-pail men in the states, and one takes to It easily, presently can . * think of no true substitute. g A Hawaii is a wonderful land in which r to "lay off.” I can easily name a num- ’ ber of more desirable places in which to labor, but the islands are the “great, * good place" in which to refrain from

labor. And this is evidenced by the growing number of "retired” folk who are taking up residence here; though witnessed much more emphatically by the Hawaiians themselves; than move on earth ,no more repose-full, superior, truly aristocratic beings. “Plenty" snobs there are in Honolulu, but the unassailably superior souls are the native-born, the native race, who, aloof from the harried hustling haoles

(whites), walk in unmoved calm and philosophy. And this air of large leisure worn by a goodly part of the population, the "low latitude” of the islands, with other temptations of nature, invite all to loitering or play. For play, too, is one of the persuasions of the land, and though at sea-level the temperature remains ever at summer reading, the uplands and far heights are brisk and breezy, and every one of the eight Islands is mountainous. Hawaii has the highest mountains of any Islands in the worlds and her lesser ranges, also, otter to the mountain climber no little of hazard and excitement, as well as infinite beauty. Certain persons return year after year to the little island world; in the ambition to explore still unknown valleys, scale unforgotten baffling palls (precipices), essay again a path to a pathless summit. On the largest island. Hawaii, there are three mountains, one of which is over eight thousand feet in height and each of the others more, than thirteen thousand. On the much smaller island of Maui, old Haleakala bulks large and towers high; few grander sights are to be studied than the view from the top of this mountain; the battling of the clouds below; the narrow isthmus of Maui joining on to those West Maul mountains that upraise a noble wall opposite the greater range; the giant crater; the distant Islands floating In the water. On a clear day from the summit may be seen all the islands of the group except Kauai; over on the big island, Hawaii, snowcapped Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa stapd forth, though distant a hundred miles; tjie entire island of Maul lies revealed. The people who say one can “do" Hawaii in —very short order, are very likely the. people that declare the .Hawaiian language is easy to learn. To “do” them takes considerable time and considerable effort But they are very worth while, they are as responsive as the race whose name they bear—-or who bears their name. Seashore or mountainside, bridle path or trail the tramper cuts for himself, auto highway or 1 cowpath on the wide ranch lands, all lure and give rich return to those that respond to their call. The horse not so very long ago was king in the island, ruled supreme, richman, poorman, beggarman, thief, all were dependent on equine carrying. Everybody knew h<w to ride, everybody had a horse, planter and Pake (Chinaman) meeting in- thls on a certain equality. But now. for one reason and another, horses are getting scarce and cost a good deal more to keep than they used to. And while the expense of riding has Increased, the pleasure has decreased —owing to automobile and motorcycle. But for mountain trips the horse still holds its own, and, I know no better way to play in Hawaii than to travel mauka (mountain-ward) with a willing steed, climbing up and up and up to where "the trail is and the path is dim"—but no “panther clings to the arching limb.” The mountain forests are of much beauty and Interest, both the reforested heights and the slopes still in possession of the native trees. Giant ferns, great-leaved, aspiring vines, wild bananas and tall shrubbery, help make a tropical jungle, though the cool air, the energy of horse and ride?, do not bespeak the tropica Birds are few. but one would rather see none titan be accompanied by the bold, raucous, multitudinous mynahs of the lower levels. These pesta, as one ascends the mountain, give place to ah occasional skylark, whose song and soaring fit in well with a holiday mood. Occasionally in the wilds the little native olive-green bird separates itself from the protecting foliage; and once in a while that other son of the soil, a rosecolored songster, is heard and seen. But bird life -is not a feature of the islands; the forests are almost silent, almost destitute of animal life. z Wild flowers are as scarce as native birds. One occasionally comes upon the Hawaiian begonia, drooping, large-petaled, pink and gold, very lovely. Sometimes the bloom of the jasmine shines out white and starlike and sheds its fragrance far abroad. The flowers of the wild ginger, one kind pure white, the other a creamy yellow, fill the air with Intoxicating sweetness. But the dominant mountain odors come from the greenery; perhaps from the trailing malle, a myr-

tie-like creeper of which the Hawailans are inordinately fond; perhaps it is the wholesome scent of the eucalyptus trees, whose stralghtne s s, slimness and pervading spiciness remind one of the pine woods of the North; perhaps

there is but a lush ferny smell. There is one native tree growing in the mouh-’ tains that bears a blossom very unique and delicately fragrant, the chua. In its time of full blossoming-the tree’s often stocky form presents the appearance of a huge crimson bouquet, there are such myriads of silky pompon flowers. Perfect pompons they are, and very well made, each silken thread about as hard to pull out as a thread of manufactured silk from a milliner’s creation. The flowers are woven into beautiful garlands, or lels, as the natives call them, and on the streets of Honolulu the stranger always turns to look again at a wreath of lehua blossoms, the deep coloring, the character of the flower, being so unusual. And a still more beautiful mountain bloom, to my mind, is that of the ohla, cousin to tflp crimson blossom. This is of the same shape but smaller tn size and its shade is the richest old-rose. A party descending from a trip mauka with each member sporting a lei of lehua or ohia,. feel very lucky indeed, proudly display this trophy of ascent to and dalliance in a real mountain region. In Hawaii one need not go to the states to get the tonic of the cold; one can take to a mountain hut and in mountain life arrive at invigoration. I write at this moment from a mountain retreat located at an elevation of 5,000 feet; sit clothed in khaki and sweater, and with a great downy scarlet blanket cushioning my chair and enwrapping my feet. Evenings the- household indulges in a fire of crackling, and pungent, eucalyptus logs, and nights I have on my bed from four to six blankets! This abode and the acres about, are stolen from a great cattle ranch on the slopes of the mountain of Haleakala, and I cannot but wonder how Our host ever was able to get any sort of slice from the great landed estate. Glad indeed I am that he was able, and that I am allowed to sojourn here In my present "lay-ing-off.” For the spot is of rare beauty—even in this land where beauty is such a commonplace. The little retreat lies midway up the mountain, a seven-mile ride by horse and the summit is reached. But one has no call to take the slow, arduous climb very often, for there is such a ravishing view from this viewpoint. Most of the island lies spread out below, rolling ranch lands leading down to green cane fields with the sea beyond, and over all a dome so vast and blue one thrills at the immensity and beauty. On clear days three islands float off there in the sea, and behind us the summit statads out sharp and challenging, a long line with little or no curve or cut On our deep, level lawn high clumps of geraniums and fuchsias glow richly colorful in the mountain air, at the window blue hydrangeas peer in, down in the little garden a Mareschal Niel rose blooms riotously, beyond, our gates real dandelions dot the pasture laiyss and there are occasional purple thistles. As I stroll about the enclosure, or ride without on the ranch, I marvel that all these homey flowers and weeds, this bracing air, can really be a part of sub-tropical isles. My present comparatively luxurious mountain life—hair mattresses, French china, Jqp servants, etc., etc.—4s very pleasant indeed, but I was equally at ease the time I spent seven weeks in a cowboys’ - hut in the Waianae mountains on Oahu, where I slept on fern beds, drank my coffee (but good quality) from an enamelware mug. sevSal of us shared the services of one "boy." In e humbler'.holiday there was -the keen, pure upland air; the beds of dry fans, piled a foot or so high, were very comfortable; one clever China

boy could do wonders over an outdoor fire; wild turkeys were numerous and easily obtainable, and a nearby gulch yielded taro (Hawaii’s chief vegetable), sweet potatoes, papayas, etc. There, as here, jL tramped and climbed and rode in the daytime; there, as here, evenings I blanketed myself like an Indian

and lying on the hillside looked at ease upon glorious sunset and wondrous moonrise, then sought a snug shelter and spent a snug evening. The simple life may be followed in Hawaii very successfully by the sea, though here one may be tempted, as Beatrice Grimshaw says, to “go native” a little too much. Bare feet and a holoku (native dress) seem suitable costume, and once taken to, it is hard to return to the burdensome trappings of conventionality and cold climates. Of course, on the beach at, or near, Honolulu, the haole (white person) would not dream of such a thing, but “on the other side the island” many indulge in this dream. To the newcomer a thatched shelter appeals as the most. appropriate dwelling, as the right setting for life on coral strands, but in these days of prosperity and display one has to search far in Hawaii before coming upon such simplicity. Not long ago I stumbled upon the ideal, a little shack close to the sea, yet pleasantly screened from its glare by rows of feathery Ironwood trees, and here I cast anchor for a season of laziness. It was very pleasant for awhile, very restful and restoring. At night I went to sleep to the sound of the sea, mornings was awakened by the song of the skylark. A dip in the ocean Wks followed by breakfast under the ironwoods, then a stroll along a winding road and a view, over the hedges of spider lilies, over the distant canefields, of misty mountafh valley, lofty peak and dome. Afterward a hammock in the alley of ironwoods; or canoeing with a native fisherman; or lying in the sands idly watching a holqku lady put her head down into a box with a glass bottom and peer about the waters in pursuit of dinner. In the cool of the afternoon, clad in a bathing suit I indulged tn "barefoot joy” along the beach, took a second plunge, then donned a fresh holoku and went in to dinner. And the day was done.