Evening Republican, Volume 18, Number 168, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 18 July 1914 — Trip to the Blue Grotto [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Trip to the Blue Grotto

ALL previous reading about the attractions of Naples had told us that a visit to Caprt in order to see the world-famous blue grotto was an absolute requirement; that not to make the voyage across to the queer-shaped rocky island, which forms the most distinctive feature of the outlook from the harbor’s edge was to forfeit all claim to the title of conscientious sight-seers. The names of Naples and Capri are virtually identical and it is also enjoihed upon the tourist to take advantage of the first favorable day, with a calm sea and no wind from north or northwest, to make'the journey, without which a sojourn in Naples is a waste ot time. So today, conditions being favorable, we went to Capri, and saw the blue grotto and, inasmuch as this is a frank and truthful chronicle of happenings and impresstons; candor compels me to declare that the expedition was not the tremendous success that frpm previous advertisements it was expected to be. To be sure, the blue grotto is blue; that cannot be denied, and probably in other than the circumstances which prevailed today—incidental in part to the fact that the tourist season is still on here—a sojourn in this peculiarly illuminated cavity in the rocky coast of Capri would be well worth the trouble* necessary to reach it, writes G. A. Lyon, Jr., in the Washington Star. Capri Is Picturesque. Capri itself is sufficiently picturesque to repay a close inspection, without reference to the holes in the rocks. The eastern extremity is a sheer cliff rising 900 feet from the sea, almost perpendicular. This is the place where,

according to tradition, the Emperor Tiberius, who spent the last ten years of his life, with but little Interruption, on this island, had the victims of his wrath flung to death on the rocks-of the shore. Jt is undeniable that if the tyrant indulged in this ghastly pastime, which is gravely doubted by some students of Roman history, he chose a most effective place for the performance. Remains of the largest of the 12 villas erected by Tiberius on Capri appear a short distance back of the edge of the cliff, on which a comparatively modern chapel stands, a bold

and commanding site for a place of worship. The ridge of the island falls away to the westward to an elevation of 460 feet, aboA a third of the east and west length of the island, and there, in the middle of a saddle between the heights, lies the city of Capri, invisible from the sea. Just westward the rocks rise again precipitously, dlmoet as abruptly as the easternmost point of the island, forming a rough tableland, sloping off to ths west coast, where the descent is sharp.

Jha highest Point of all tn Capri is Mount Solaro, just west <A thecontrei cliff, 1,>20 feet The effect of the island, rising thus steeply from the sea, is striking from any point of view.— The mountainsides are bare and gray, save in the milder slopes, where vegetation is possible. Olive groves and vineyards occupy the gentler hillsides and the plateaus. Hotels and villas are scattered . here and there in commanding positions. Roads cut zigzag up the heights can be traced by the retaining walls. The water of the Bay of Naples is a . wondrous blue, and as the shores of Capri are neared the color becomesmore pronounced, owing to the shoaling. The steamer anchors in liquid turquoise. Out come the rowboats, before the chain begins to rattle, and in a few minutes the now familiar process of putting off and taking on passengers is in progress. But here only a few embark, while several dozen go ashore. After a short wait the steamer weighs anchor again and starts off along the coast toward the western end of the island. Experienced tourists, or those with good advice, go below to the gangways to be among the first to visit the grotto. Not a sign of an entrance to the cavern appears as we leave the steamer, but after a short pull the little bark is brought to a point where the rock wall let into the cliff 30 feet from the surface of the sea, alongside of a hotel advertisement, impudently placed in this ♦ position of advantage. The small boats are by now clustered at the entrance. One by one

they disappear. The ladies of my party are in one of those ahead and my companion is a German who knows no English. We manage to extend ourselves tn the bottom of the boat, at the .. oarsman’s command, and draw our ; heads below the gunwale. The boatman grasps a chain and pulls us through the low opening. Hurried Trip Through Grotto. For a moment after entering the grotto, it seems to be all that the enthusiasm of preceding visitors has painted it. The light from the entrance gives the water a marvelous blue tone, impossible to describe, and the oars are as of silver. But the boatman quickly makes the round of the "room" and is soon back near the opening, where already a dozen other boats are collected, while more are entering. The blueness fades as the grotto fills. Away back, opposite the entrance, a candle is burning, and two youths in negligee stand spectrally on a ledge waiting to be bargained with for a dive into the water for a lire. This is reputed to be a remarkable phenomenon, the boy’s body showing silvery in the refracted light beneath the surface. But so quickly are we rowed around that there is no chance to negotiate for the dive, and almost before we realize that we have been inside of the famous "grotto azure” of Capri we are lying down again, in the bottom of the boat, the oarsman is pulling at the chain and we have popped out into the sunlight Our visit has lasted Just six minutes. Back to the steamer we went, pausing by a "change’’ boat to break a fivelire note in order to pay the tax of 25 . cents American tor each passenger. Meanwhile boats were continuing to come and go. Obviously, It does not pay to visit the blue grotto in the height of th* Neapolitan season.

CENTRAL NAPLES

The Blue Grotto, Capri.