Evening Republican, Volume 18, Number 108, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 May 1914 — Afternoon Gown of Taffeta and Ribbon [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Afternoon Gown of Taffeta and Ribbon

DISTINCTLY in the new French mode, this gown exemplifies how far it has departed from the clinging fabrics and long lines that have prevailed through many seasons. Comparisons are odious, but, like the Athenians, the moderns are always looking for something new, and hence the new modes. Some of them are destined to die an early death and the best that can be Baid of many of them is that they furnish a cue to designers who take them up and improve upon them. In the gown pictured the employment of wide, plaid ribbon in bodice and skirt is a feature that is destined to live. The easy and comfortable adjustment of the bodice, and its usefulness for outdoor wear, are commendable. It answers the purpose of a little coat, finished with a standing frill of double taffeta about the neck and sleeves, and the suggestion of a basque in the narrow frill about the waist.

The plaid ribbon forms a yoke slightly full about the waistline, to which the lower part of the skirt is sewed. The seam shows a piping in the ribbon. Except for the yoke the skirt is made of taffeta laid in narrow side plaits, and finished with a double frill of taffeta about the bottom. Two similar frills are placed just below the knees. The skirt has novelty to recommend it, but is npt graceful. The yoke is

almost plain about the hips, and all the lines made by frills and joinings extend straight around the figure, lessening its height. No natural curves of the body are followed, and in fact the body is encased in the skirt instead of being draped with it. The design is suited to a slender figure of medium height. It would be grotesque on a short, plump figure and awkward on a tall, slim figure. The yoke with side plaited skirt attached has been worked up quite successfully by making it an overskirt finished with a frill at the bottom, falling over a plain skirt. The overskirt is weighted a little’and slopes downward toward the back. The underskirt is full enough to admit of freedom in walking. One of those hats with flat, flaring brim mounted over the side of a crown is faced with chiffon which extends beyond the edge of the brim ip a frilL

The bandeau is covered with ribbon finished with a small bow at the right side. The plateau is of straw braid and trimmed with a wreath of small flowers in vivid colorings. It is a smart and attractive model. Plaid and figured taffeta ribbon play a very important part in the construction of gowns and wraps. They are formed into flounces, edging wraps shaped like short capes and other suggestions of the dolman of days gone by.