Evening Republican, Volume 18, Number 69, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 21 March 1914 — Pannier Gown of Chiffon Taffeta [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Pannier Gown of Chiffon Taffeta

SOFT and lustrous chiffon taffeta in a light pink tone is employed for making up the smart and novel model pictured here. It promises well among the new styles that are bidding for favor. It is one of' the corsetless models, witness its broad swathing at the waist line. . 1 Such bouffant designs are impossible for the short and plump figure. There are others equally new, with flounces and pannier effects, that in reality do not shorten the figure, and the plump woman must abjure styles which make her look shapeless, confining herself to those designed for her. But the new' gowns, to be worn over the new corsets —which hardly extend above the waist line—or over no corset, have demonstrated one thing. The stout figure looks less stout in the easy styles than it did in a tight highbust corset. There are practically no plain skirts with entirely unbroken lines among the new spring models. Nearly all of them have drapery which adds width to the hip line. Just how successful the puckerings and drapings will become in point of popularity, remain to be proved.

Voiles, plain and printed, wool challies, novelty weaves in crepe, chiffon taffeta, light weight satins, crepe de chine and similar fabrics are made up in designs similar to that shown in the picture. It is not suited to heavy fabrics. A similar design has a plain underskirt with an overdress reaching from the waist to a point below the hips, that is, about half way to the knees. The overdress is slightly full about the waist and is gathered in at the bottom and sewed to the underskirt. It is long enough to fall over a girdle of ribbon which is placed about Jhe skirt at the bottom of the overdress. The girdle is of messaline ribbon and is tied in the simplest of bows with hanging loops and ends, at the left side. A design of this kind does not shorten a stout figure if the fabric selected is supple so that it clings to the body. Altogether, gowns for spring look as if they mignt prove comfortable. We have never had airier fabrics~more lace or more entirely feminine compositions than are demonstrated in the new modes.

JULIA BOTTOMLEY.