Evening Republican, Volume 17, Number 252, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 22 October 1913 — Page 3

Two Developments of a Rembrandt Hat

REMBRANDT painted many graceful hate and we shall do honor to hia art during the coming season; for they have furnished Inspiration for thousands of hats which are triumphant among the new styles. Never was such a widespread demand for rich velvet. Crowns are soft, brims are flexible and full of grace. Their lines \ are good from every point and they silhouette the face adorably. One of the Rembrandt models Is shown here as Interpreted by two designers. It will be seen that there is very little variation In lines. The brim is elaborated in the all-velvet hat by the addition of an extra under brim of velvet smaller than the brim above It. This secondary brim is really a flat puff of velvet tacked to the brim proper, and it is not an essential part of the design. In both hats the brim is a large, flat puff of scant fullness supported by the lightest of frames? and the crown is a full ' poll. ( One designer has provided her hat with a crown of satin, thus accomplishing a little elaboration in her model, placing th'e-puffed crown care has been given to disposing its fullness so that * the crown falls toward the right side as it should. Both designers selected odd feathers for decorating their creations, of a character so light and airy that no line of the shape is concealed by them. Both selected narrow ribbon and copied the Quaint flat pair of bows into which the eprlghtly feathers at the side are mounted. The all-velvet hat is trimmed with the Numldi feather in the natural dark brownish gray color. It 1b far more expensive than the very effective

SCARF AND MUFF OF ERMINE FASHIONABLE PLUSHES

AS befits so rich fur the scarf and muff of ermine shown here are plain and exquisitely made. Ermine, in the body of both pieces, is made up without the points of black, which only appear in the trimming. It depends on the furrier for variety, as nearly all fashionable furs do this season. It is the manner in which skins are matched, arranged and sewed together that provides individuality in style for the wearers of handsome furs. This careful making is a big item in the matter of expense, also. The amount of work involved in making a set like that shown here 1b not realised until one sees how many small pieces—shaped and themselves 'priced —mußt be joined with the most painstaking exactness to make even a , small scarf. Ermine Is a luxury for the rich, and not suited to general wear. It is, in fact, more attractive in a small neck piece than in a long and ample Bcart It really appears to best advantage as a trimming for other furs or on neckpieces and muffs made of velvet and chiffon. Ermine made up without the black points is called "pure ermine" and is quite the fashion for the coming season. It is fairly durable, bus, of course, .soils easily. People who can afford iseveral sots are those who will indulge themselves in the pure white of this fur and reserve it to wear upon high occasions. • But the scarf and muff pictured here may serve as guides for making up sets in some of the remarkably handsome plushes g which are as fashionable as fur. The e flat muff and the, long and modely wide scarf are Just as comible in plush **s in fur. - A good Iplush is handsomer than a cheap fur. The best idea of the new season la the use of plushes for making matched seta, muff, neck-piece and turban. There was never so great a variety of plushes to choose from, and

and beautlfu? peacock feather which was choßen for the other hat. There are certain styles in' hats which are so good from the standpoint of art that they have more stability than mere fashions. These hats are examples of good style. Besides possessing good style they are immensely fashionable; which two commendable characteristics are not always found together in millinery or other things. Some very ugly things manage to become fashionable for a brief time. But they never are stylish—that is, they have not good style, and therefore have no permanence. But look and you will see that the good style of the Rembrandt hats has put the master’s name in everyone’s mouth at this present time. We shall delight in the lovely lines of these hats and in the rich, soft velvets and odd, saucy feathers which go into their composition. With all their virtues these lovely conceptions are comparatively inexpensive. * They must be made of good velvet with a live luster. They admit of little trimming—and this may cost much or little. The two examples here show that the peacock feather is quite as pretty as the Numldi. If it were ae scarce, expensiveness might be added to its charms. But it is one of those splendid things that is within easy reach. We are ÜBed to it and want something else. Therefore feather manufacturers have provided great numbers of fancy feathers, odd and graceful—and unrecognizable. They are originally even easier to get than peacock, but they are masquerading in new forms —which is worth something. JULIA BOTTOMLEY.

they were never before in such high favor. Neckpieces, as a rule, are smalL Very few scarves as large as the ermine piece pictured here will be found in fur or plush sets. There is no very substantial reason for so large a scarf; the long ends are not an added protection. Beds for muffs are made of down, or very satisfactory one may be made

of wool batting. The down beds are sold in the shops ready made and simplify the work of the woman who makes her own muff. Plushes are to be bought In narrow or wide weaves. Most of the heavier ones suitable for these sets are woven a yard and a half wide. Three-quar-ters of a yard will make.a muff and scarf. JULIA BOTTOMLKY.

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER, IND. •

GOOD JOKES

INEXPERIENCED. In a boarding house for bachelors, Amanda, typical “mammy,” looked after the guests’ comfort in true southern style so well that one of the men thought he would take her away with him in the Bummer in the capacity of housekeeper. Toward Bpring he waylaid her in the hall one day and said: “Mandy, do yoh like the country?” Mandy reckoned she did. “Would you like to go away with me —this summer and keep house for me?" Mandy was sure she would. “Suppose I get Just a bungalow. Do you think you could take care of it nicely by yourself?” Mandy gasped and rolled her eyes. “’Deed no, massa! Reckon you all better get somebody else; I don’t know nothin’ about taking care of any animals!” —Harper’jS Magazine.

Favorite Fiction.

"It’s So Good to Get Back to Work Again.” • “Yes, Indeed; the Rougher Is, the Better I Like It.” "It Thundered and Lightened Incessantly, but I’m Not Afraid of Lightning.” "I Dropped Business Entirely; Didn’t Do a Thing While I Was Away but Just Rest” "Did I Catch Any Fish? Only a Few —Perhaps a Dozen or Two Black Bass.”

PREPARED.

Bill —’Bout ready fer th' deer season to begin, Pete? Pete —Waal, I should say so. I got five bucks hung up in tha woods now and a party of ten city sports coming day after tomorrow.

Note Window Exhibit.

A picture’s bad. Do people flee it? They break, egad, Their necks to see It.

Uncle Jerry.

“I notice,” said Uncle Jerry Peebles, taking off his glasses apd wiping them, “that a woman wants to be divorced fm her husband because he can’t hold a job long anywhere and they have to be always movin’. She says they’ve moved six times in the last ten years. Great Peter Cartwright! Wouldn’t she ’a’ been an awful failure as an old time Methodist preacher’s wife?"

Becoming Inured.

"So you want to go into public life?” asked Senator Sorghum. “Yes,” replied the young man. "You must remember that you wiN be criticised and ridiculed even by your friends. Can you accustom yourself to that?” "Yes; I’m practicing now. I wear one of those plaid coats with a belt In the back.”

Still Hope.

Mrs. McGinty had waited long and patiently for her husband to come home on Saturday night with his week’s pay. Finally she decided to take the matter in her own hands, and she sallied forth to the police station to Inquire if he was there. "Is my Tim here?” she asked. "No," replied the lieutenant; "but sit down; we’re expecting him every minute.”—Lipplncott’s.

"That idea of rubbing two pieces of wood together must be .very useful when you are camping." "It is,” replied the guide. ’Tve known it to provide occupation by tkg hour for a man who otherwise would have been all over the place making a nuisance of himself.”

Carefully Explained.

"You advertise ‘no mosquitoes,’" said the summer boarder as he slapped his cheek. "Yes," replied Farmer Corntossel; "we put that in the sam,> as some hotels say ‘no dogs,’ meant ig that they will not be wanted.”

Hard to Locate.

"I don’t think Mrs. Nurltch will find accommodations where she wants to go for the summer." "Why not?" ° "She says she longs to sojourn on the banks of the gulf stream, of which she has heard so much."

Out of Her Element.

classic dancer was much embarrassed last night" "Impossible!" "It’s a fact. A pedant asked her If she had ever read Plato."

Useful.

GENTLE HINT.

Mr. Hyboy—Last night I dreamed that I proposed to you. Miss Hintz —Strange. Psychologists claim that some people are more sensible asleep than awake.

Liquid Wit.

I like the seltzer-bottle fun You see upon the stage. There’s nothing quite so funny, son. As squirted persilflage.

Tragedies Told in Headlines.

"The Automobile Was a Borrowed One.”,, "Party at Other End of Wire Was the Mother Instead of the Daughter.” “He Didn’t Mind Losing the Borrowed Rod —but the Fish Got Away." „ “Shykee Pays His Dental Bill and Postpones His Vacation.” “Incautious Doctor Tells Rich Patient Her Symptoms Are Those of Housemaid’s Knee.” “He Wrote It ‘Raised to the nth Power;’ It Was Printed ‘Raised to the Fifth Power.'"

Missed a Chance.

"Yes,” sighed the pretty girl, "poor little Fido’s dead, and that’B why I’m sad, you eee.” But did the stupid youth make the tobviouß, proper, and time honored response, “O, no; you’re very fair, I see?” “He did not. All he said was this: “Sadducee? Then you don’t believe in poor little Fido’s resurrection!"

The Ruling Passion.

Host (proudly)—And this, is a masterpiece of Rembrandt! Visitor—Great Scott, man! What is that unsightly hole in the corner? It spoils the whole picture. Host —Well, you.see, my wife is an autograph collector, and she wouldn’t rest until she cut the signature out and pasted it in her album. —Puck.

Hard to Choose.

“The Jury has been out a long time.” ."Yes;-and I doubt their ever reaching a verdict You see, the case is one in which a life insurance solicitor is suing a book agent, and I fancy the Jurymen are trying to figure opt some scheme for sticking them both."— Judge.

Hot Air?

The Lung-Tester Man —Nine hundred and seventy-two! That beats the record, sir! The Gentleman From Kansas (proudly)—l jest wish we had one of them machines to hum! I’ll bet a big apple I’d get the next nomination for congress from our district! —Puck.

The Trouble.

"What was the trouble .with the poor woman." "We thought she was in a catamose condition, but the doctor said she was under the influence of aniline.”

POOR PUSSY!

Hubby (on shipboard)—Great Scots! Helen, here is a C. Q. D: message addressed to us. • Wife—Distress message, addressed to us? Who’s in distress, George? Hubby—The cat. We forgot and left her locked up in the house when we started on this trip. ,

Unlike a Buggy.

No hugging In a motor car! The wheel la prone to veer. The rldera alwaya get a Jar When Cupid trlea to ateer.

No Foolishness About Him.

"Was your husband badly rattled when he proposed to you?” "I tried to imagine that he was rattled, but something In his manner of proposing made me think otherwise. He simply grabbed my hand and said: ‘Well, old girl, is it to be "Yes" or "No.”?*"

Final Victory at the Isthmus

ONLY a few years ago the results accomplished by the Americans in the construction of the Panama canal would have been deemed impossible in such a short time. The single statement that, from May 4, 1904, until the very nearing completion of the work, about 215,000,000 cubic yards of rock and earth will have been excavated is sufficient to illustrate the success of this wonderful undertaking. During the days when the ill-fated Freneh company sought to bring about the long desired union of the oceans it is estimated that 80,000,000 cubic yards were removed. The United States engineers have utilized about 30,000,000 yards of this work. The same amount of excavation, 245,000 cubic yards, would complete a tunnel 8,000 miles long around the earth with a diameter of 14 feet The story of the canal undertaking is a glorious one from the very outset of American occupancy. They found an almost impossible situation facing them, conditions of the very worpt as regards health and the beginning of their work. The graveyard in which lay buried hundreds of the French workers was a grim reminder of the awful carnage from yellow fever. Nor was this needed, for one after another many of the American pioneers were stricken fatally. The Spanish war had brought about the solution of the spread of yellow fever, but even before the sanitation authorities under Col. William C. Gorgas, could gain a foothold in the Canal Zone, the American death list was of appalling proportion's. Today the mortality is less than that of the average American city, and plans are already under way for the making of a popular winter resort at Panama Yellow Fever Disappears. Knowing the mosquito is responsible fpr yellow fever, efforts were directed toward the extermination of this dangerous insect The usual breeding spots, swamps and pools of stagnant water, were destroyed and remoyed and every house and building screened. The danger comes from a mosquito biting a person stricken with yellow fever and then injecting the infection into' the blood of a healthy human being. If the insect cannot reach the sick, there can be no spreading of the disease. In all fairness to the French it should be remembered that during the years of their labors yellow fever was an absolute mystery. In their efforts at well-doing not Infrequently moves were made which aided in the breeding of mosquitoes and increased the danger of infection. There was little or no action then in the direction of modern sanitary precautions, although medical and hospital facilities were of the best None gave heed to screening then; toAay a resident in the Canal Zone is absolutely compelled to meet the regulations. In studying the canal section the reader must benr in mind that the Isthmus is an east and west not a north and south strip of land connecting the two cortinents. At least in the individual maps of the Canal Zone this location may prove confusing, if not considered, for Colon, the terminus on. the Atlantic ocean of the canal, is nearly twenty miles west of Panama, the Pacific terminus. Thus, in connecting an eastern with a western ocean, the canal runs from the northwest to the southeast The civil administration of the canal Includes a school system which is said to compare favorably with the best in the United States; an efficient'police system; a Judiciary which, although without jury trial, is absoltgply just under its court rulings, and a progressive division of posts, customs and revenues. Of course, from these many departments there are numerous sub bureaus. The canal will cost the United States a total of $375,000,000, the funds being borrowed-for the purpose. This includes, the payment of $40,000,000 to the French company and $10,000,000 to the Republic of Panama. An approximate value of $25,600,000 Is

placed in the work done by the Freneh and the worth of all their property at nearly $43,000,000. In order to make the canal commercially self-supporting the annual revenue must reach sl9y 21)0,000. The operating and maintenance expenses are estimated at $3,500,000 yearly, with another $500,000 required for sanitation and for the government of the zone. At three peT cent, per annum the interest on $375,000,000 amounts to $11,250,000, and beginning with this year $250,000 must be paid annually to the Republic of Panama under the terms of the treaty. This makes a total of $15,500,000 to which should be added $3,750,000, which is one per cent per annum on $375,000,000, for the purpose of Creating a fund to clear off the cost debt. A Statistician’s Prediction. It is estimated by Emory R. Johnson, formerly a professor at the University of Pennsylvania, and now renowned as a statistician and commissioner on Panama traffic .and tolls, that the annual total tonnage of ships using the canal during the first two years wiH be 10,500,000. In 1911 the total net tonnage passing through the Suez canal was 18,000,000. Allowing 4,000 net tons to average vessel passing through the Panama canal this would mean 2,625 a year, or about seven a day. From 1915 to 1925 Professor Johnsdn predicts a 60 per cent. Increase, making the total for 1925 about 17,000,000 tons and an additional 10,000,000 tons increase in the 20 years following. Based on careful study of trade conditions, distances and the figures of the Buez and other leading canals, these figures are said to conservative. It was upon the report and recommendation of Professor Johnson that President Taft issued a proclamation in November, 1912, a* to the amount of canal tolls. Vessels carrying cargo and passengers, other than those engaged in coast-to-coast trade, must pay $1.20 on each net vessel ton, this being 100 cubic feet of cargo or earning- capacity. Thus a ship of 4,000 net tons would be required to pay a toll of $4,800 for each passage. Vessels in ballast will pay 40 per cent, less, warships will be taxed 50 cents per displacement ton. while army and navy transports, colliers and hospital supply ships will be reckoned on the same basis as cargo and passenger ships. These figures ten concisely the enormity of the canal project. At both entrances to the canal strong fortifications are being completed. Experts confidently state that the building of the canal doubles the naval strength of the United States. The mobility of the fleets will be so greatly increased, making for a more effective and at the same time more economical defence of widely separated seaboards. It will provide a naval base from which American warships can go forth and strike deadly blows, then return, certain of protection while coal and other supplies are being secured. Likewise, repairs can be made when necessary.

Fewer Forest Fires.

Working arrangements for the prevention of forest fires are so remotely from the attention of* men generally that comparatively little is known of them outside tbs circle qf those who are immediately interested, ft is therefore no wonder that when we have passed a summer season with few forest fires and little damage, many people consider It a matter of accident rather than precaution. This Is not a sound conclusion. The record of forest fires during the summer Just passed has been exceptionally low; and that is not qnly true of this section of the country, hot of every other section an well. —Portland (Ore.) Telegram. ii —— nr- i jj* '* "'

In the Mode.

Mrs. Flaherty— is la black and white this Salsowr The paper says Mrs. Aether hilt wears a white pearl In wan ear an* a black wan In the lther. Mrs. Piannagan—Thin Ol’m jlst In style, wid wan black aye an* wan white wan.— Puck.