Evening Republican, Volume 17, Number 249, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 18 October 1913 — Page 3

Home Life of Navajo Indians

TO see the Navajo properly, one should travel by stage from Gallup to Shiprock, N. M. By taking this route, one can see the Indians living their own natural way, and it is hard to believe that they live practically on the ground day and night unless one sees them in their homes. Our party, Beated in a four-horse rig, rode 25 miles the first afternoon, staying that night at an Indian school named “Tohatchi” (meaning “Scratch for water"). Here we found nice comfortable buildings, and the teachers of the Indians treated us to the best they had, and we felt quite at home. The next day we covered 46 miles, stopping at a trading post long enough to eat luncheon. That night we put up at another Indian school, named “Toadalena” (meaning “running water"). This place is 7,000 feet above sea level, and the scenery is very pretty. The people here gave us good meals and a nice place in which to sleep. The third and last day we made 60 miles without any stop, but ate our luncheons as we rode along. As we traveled we were fortunate enough to miss the awful sandstorms so common at this season. The sun shone about 12 hours each day, and wo were traveling early enough in the spring to miss the heat. p Very Little Clothing. The Navajos live in hogans and tepees, built low and small, with no floors and very little ventilation. They usually have a rough door, or hole in the top. One of these small houses seldom has more than one room, which accommodates a family of almost any size. These Indians sleep on sheepskins, and cover themselves with the blankets they make. Very little clothing is worn by them, and very seldom a hat. Most of the men have kerchiefs around their heads, to keep th'e long hair out of their facbs, and the women usually have blankets over their shoulders, and their hair is tied in a knot back of their headß. The Jewelry worn by the Indians consists principally of silver ringß and bracelets, made by them, Bet with turr’’oise, and worn chiefly by the woman. Anyone traveling in the desert would never think it so thickly populated, but if an Indian should be shot, there would be several hundred at the scene of the shooting in less than half a day, as they have reflecting mirrors to use in signaling their distress calls. The Navajo rugs are noted for their beauty and durability; but one would be surprised to see how some of them are made. They have a franriT set up in the outside of their hogans, and here they sit in the sun, taking days and sometimes weeks, in making a single rug. The average price they receive for their rugs is about sl6 each. The genuipe Navajo rug is made from their own sheep’s wool. Dislike Paper Money. On an average of one every twentylive miles along the roads on the Navajo Indian reservation, white men have stoies, or trading poets. Here the Indians bring their rugs, wool and so forth, and trade for the necessities of life. The trader ships to the differ«nt parts of the United States the things he buys from the Indians. If, In the course of business, the Navajos get any paper money, they have it changed into coin before buying anything, as they do not understand the value of currency. When a Navajo becomes sick, Hie medicine man, or woman, of the tribe

is sent for to drive away the “evil spirit.” For this service (?) the man or the woman is given ten sheep or goats. If the Navajos think one of their people is going to die, he or she is carried a hundred yards or more from the hogan, for the reason that when one dies in a hogan the hogan is burned, as none of the tribe will live in it afterward. The Indian school at Shiprock, in San Juan county, New Mexico, is one of the best in the service, although it is only ten years old. There are about 160 students in attendance, in ages ranging from six to twenty yenru. Most of the children are bright, and want to learn, but their capacity for learning does not go far beyond the sixth grade. The Navajo children’s singing and reciting would do credit to that heard In most white schools, and they can answer more Bible questions and repeat more Scripture than the average grown white person. These little Indians are taught to do all kinds of work, such as sewing, tailoring, kitchen and dining room work, carpentering, farming, and, in fact, everything that an American should know. Many of the girls take positions with white families, and prove themselves very capable in doing their work properly. Their success in any Tine of work Is due to the Buperlntendent and the teachers, who take great care in their training. Uncle Sam has spent several thousand dollars in constructing comfortable buildings and in beautifying the grounds in this part of the Navajo country. Thebe Indians have a fine greenhouse, ice plant, laundry, acetylene light plant, hospital, and every other up-to-date convenience. The school grounds contain about' 300 acres and are quite level. The San Juan river runs near by, and supplies ample water for irrigating. This land produces large crops of alfalfa, grains, fruits, melons, and other agricultural products. The school has for its use and study fine cows, horses, sheep, hogs, and, in fact, everything of the best that one could wish for, and naturally, the Indians appreciate all that Uncle Bam is doing for them. Every fall, to encourage the Indians in their work, a big fair is held at Shiprock, and the Navajos take much pride in bringing in for exhibition the best of everything. This is a time of great rejoicing among the natives, and many white people come from far and near to Bee the wonderful things made by the Indians. About two years ago, this region experienced a cloudburst that caused the rivers to overflow their banks, and water covered the entire school grounds. All of the inhabitants and live stock had to move up on higher ground, where they were compelled to remain for several hours before the flood Subsided. A new steel bridge over the San Juan river, which cost SIO,OOO, was washed away; a few cottages that were built of adobe, crumbled down; basements were filled with water; clothes and eatables ruined, and the pretty school grounds Were covered with mud about a foot thick. Something like $60,000 damage was done, and everything was in a very deplorable condition, but in the face of this, the Indians went to work, and after a long period of patient toiling, everything was put in a condition better than it was before the flood. Whisky is not allowed op the reservation even backed by a doctor’s presscrlption, because of its demoralizing effect on the Indians.

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER, INP.

VARIETY OF MATERIAL

SKILLFUL COMBINATION A RECENT WHIM OF FASHION. Has Much to Recommend It, Especlal'»ly In the Opportunity It Afforda for Originality—lllustration T Shows EffecL To combine several materials and trimmings and then bring them Into a pleasing ensemble by a dash of still another color and fabric is one of the tricks by which fashion is distinguishing herself lately. The idea is bo capable of such varied treatment, and allows such a splendid opportunity for originality, that it is indeed interesting. Also, it permits some practice in economy, because bits from the scrapbag can be worked in with telling results as, perhaps, never before. Fc- dressy white frocks of handkerchief linen, marquisette and voile, embroideries in eyelet and solid work play an important part among trimmings, either in bandings or worked directly on the-material. Many ways of using the bandings hitherto unthought of are in evidence. One pretty method is illustrated in the accompanying sketch, where cut work and solid stitch are combined in oblong medallions that are set perpendicularly at small Intervals around the lower part of the pouched tunic and the blouse, with a single one on the outside of either sleeve above the cuff band. This arrangement is really new and undeniably‘effective. The blouse of the dress is surpliced in front and back, iSvith the decolletage edged with batiste ruffling. The short sleeves, which are puffed under at the cuff, are set, into lowered arm-

White Handkerchief Linen Frock.

holes under a corded seam. The tunic skirt runs longer In back than in front, pouched over the lower skirt In a line just above the knees. It ls mounted at the waist with a scant line of gathers, and there Is a girdle of magenta velvet ribbon. The lower skirt Is draped at one side, and has a deep hem topped with a line of cut work.—Lillian Young, in the Washington Star.

SOME NOVELTIES IN VEILS

Those of Tulle With Only a Single Bpot Are Pretty—How to Keep In Position. Tulle face veils lu countless designs are among the new itemß of interest, many of tlvem having but a single spot in the whole veil. The main object in wearing this veil is £o bring the spot over the precise part of the face where it will look most bewitching. It should be placed either under the left eye, at the corner of the mouth or close to the lobe of the ear. On hats with brims bristling with feathers, aigrettes or tulle frills, blue, violet, red or .green tulle should be worn, by means of one velvet spot, to be worn as described. These vellß are difficult to put on above the hat borders. Place carefully beneath the tulle frill or the aigrette fringe; then fasten with two or three large-headed pins matching either the veil of, the hat. Bring the folds round to the back of your neck and fix them tight together by means of a brooch, or else leave the veil loose with two ends falling at the back. A veil worn this way is especially suited to women with regular features and should be of lace design. Light tulles in pink, blue or white with wide meshes and pearly flowers of a lighter shade, relieved by a thread of black silk, are charming worn with toques without brims. Veils in sea green or sun color are prettiest with light-colored dresses. They are raised above the hat brim in front and then allowed to fail be hind in folds over the shoulders.

DAINTY AFTERNOON GOWN

Model of dark blue satin with blouse of plaid. Taffeta bolt. Waistcoat of white mousseline.

PRETTY CONCEITS FOR BABY

Any Number of Dainty Things Do signed to Show Off the Monarch of the Household. Pretty lace caps for babies are easily made by using white lace allover, and drawing in the fullness at the back with ribbon run through a tiny hem. The edges of the bonnet are trimmed with lace ruffles, and the long strings are made of fine lace insertion about three inches wide. A lainty carriage robe for summer use is made of fine dotted swiss, made oyer a pink foundation and lined with a thin sheet of cotton wadding. The robe may be ruffled with swiss, edged with lace, or finished around the edge with a small pink and white silk cord. It is a good plan when making a carriage robe to put a pocket on the under side In which to place small articles. A pillow for baby’s carriage is made with wide insertion and ribbon the same width. It is tied bolster style at both ends, the frilled portion being finished with narrow lace and ribbons. The pad tor the baby buggy can be made of white linen, very plain, with a border of insertion sewed about three inches from the edge. This is run through with ribbon, making a flat border to the pad .when completed. Finish one end with buttons and buttonholes.

To Clean Sateen.

To clean sateen, first soak the article in salt and water, then wring it out and wash in a thin soap lather, but do not rub. When this is finished rinse thoroughly, wring out and shake well. Put In the shade tO dry and when nearly dry take down and pull well both wayß, but do not Iron.

Among the novelty veils are those painted in vivid colorß, and tulles with fine meshes drawn tight as wire netting, and loose nets adorned with five black velvet specks here and there. Black or white is most suitable to wear with a black velvet or tulle hat

WITH DAINTY LINGERIE FROCK

Hat of Rose-Trimmed Leghorn Is'the Moat Appropriate Headgear That Can Be Worn. The rose-trimmed leghorn shown In the drawing should be a crowning

where a stiffly wired flower nods over the crown at the back. Another becoming touch is added by the facing of the brim with black satiu. The pink of the roses and the black facing are very becoming.

Her Husband.

"I asked my husband for some pin money tbls morning.” "What did he say?” "He asked me how much ping were a paper."

beauty to a young girl’s dainty lingerie frock. The brim has been allowed its own sweet will framing the youthful face beneath most charmingly.' The low crown is encircled by a wreath of widely scattered roses and the craze for “upstanding” or naments has been followed hers

Shoes and Character

Facts and Philosophy in Feet Set Forth by Elbert Hubbard in “The Fra” An Advertisement. There are four primal necessities in life —only four. These are food, clothing, shelter—love. Shoes and hats are a part of our clothing. Also, they are secondary sexual manifestations, said Herbert Spencer. Spencer was a bachelor, and he knew. And as women’s shoes get more beautiful, skirts grow narrow and short. Spiritless, dejected, whipped-out men advertise to the world their mental condition by their shoes. Hope, courage, animation, ambition, are mirrored In your shoes. Your feet feature the facts. Shoes are a tell-tale. Once there were people in America who never wore shoes. Now, we all do —a part of the time, at least. Americans are the best-shod people on earth. Our consumption of shoes is two hundred seventy million pairs a year —three pairs to a person. Twenty-five years ago it was two pairs a year per person. We are getting more particular. Also, as the years have passed, our shoes have been bettered in style and quality. Most of us, even us common folks, have different shoes for different occasions. It’s better for our feet, and better for our heads, as it lifts our self-respect. When you change your shoes you change your mind. Prosperous Shoe Manufacturers. Shoe-manufacturers are a prosperous people. There Is no “Shoe Trust,” and there can’t be, for there are thirteen hundred shoe-factories in the United States, and more are being formed. I know of six shod-factories In Saint Louis, all started by employees, who have come out of one particular factory and embarked In business on their own account. And they are all making money. Monopoly Is out of the question in the shoe business, for the simple rear son that any one who wants to start a shoe-factory is not obliged to buy an outfit of costly machinery. He can lease shoe-making machinery, and get It on exactly the same terms that the biggest factories can. If every shoe-factory had tp buy or manufacture Its own machinery, and thus keep abreast of the times, It would require such a vast capital, and also such a corps of inventors, that of necessity the business would be concentrated in the hands of a few. Instead of thirteen hundred factories, there would be thirteen, and if there were only thirteen they would get together and we would have a Shoe Trust. As It Is, we haven’t Today, the boot and shoe Industry Is the one large business left In the world not run by a so-called Trust and the United Shoe Machinery Company Is responsible for that fact. A few days ago, I was in Boston, and I Just took a couple of days off to Cnd out who the United Shoe Machinery Company Ib, what they are, and what they-are doing. The general offices of the concern are in Boston, hut their factories are at Beverly, Massachusetts, twenty miles out, near where President Taft made his summer home. The salt water comes right up to the doors. The Machinery Trust Bugaboo. We have heard about the Increased cost to the consumer by reason df the so-called “Machinery-Trust.” I suppose the average person, If asked what amount the owner of leased shoe machinery would receive on a pair of shoes, would say, “Oh, about forty or fifty cents." The real fact is that It takes fifty-eight different machines to make a single shoe, and In cases where the entire fifty-eight machines are leased by the manufacturer of shoes the owner of the Machines receives a royalty running up sometimes to five and one-half cents a pair. Where fewer machines are used it runs as low as half a cent a pair, and the average for most shoes is one and one-third cents a pair. If this entire coßt were wiped out it would not make one cent's worth of difference to the wearer in the price for a pair of shoes! Let It be known that the United Shoe Machinery Company do not make shoes. They simply manufacture machinery that is used by shoe-manufac-turers. They make upwards of three hundred varieties of machines. Different styles, weights and kinds of shoes require different machinery. There are. babies’ shoes, children’s shoes, women’s shoes, men’s shoes, shoes for business, shoes for society, shoes for Indoors and shoes for outdoors. Some people wear one kind of shoe in the morning and another in the afternoon, and • different shoe in the evening. ....... * The Lease Bystem. Most of the principal machines made by the United Shoe Machinery Company are leased to the manufacturers, although a great majority of the machines they make can be bought if the user so desires. Practically all of the shoe-factories In America lease their machinery. This custom has come down for the past forty years. The reason is that so many different kinds of machines are needed In making a shoe; and new Inventions and improvements are happening every day. Factories would not run the risk of putting in a new Invention, especially in view of the fact that the machine might have to be replaced any day with something better, cheaper and more effective. Things we don't know anything about, we are not aware of. Ninety-five per cent, of manufacturers today very much prefer to lease a machine rather than to purchase it outright. Because a machine leased by the user doesn't have to be “scrapped.” This dread nightmare of an obsolete machine carried on the inventory has made many a good man turn gray before his time. * Successful Co-Operation. The business of the United Shoe Machinery Company is one of the best examples of successful co-operation In America. Inasmuch as most of the machinery is leased, and pays a return only when used, it is self-evident that the machinery mußt be of a kind that will give a satisfactory service. The United 3hoe Machinery Company employ a force of more than five hundred travelling machinists, who are constantly Inspecting the Installed mar chinery and seeing that it is kept up in perfect oonditlon. Idle machinery, like idle men, yields no income. The United Shoe Machinery Company keep constantly In their employ a force of about a hundred highly skilled inventors, who are constantly working on new Ideas, or perfecting old ones. No machine is ever made good enough. It must be made better. There are no secrets around the United Shoe Machinery Company’s works. You see the inventors, the chemists, the workers in the laboratory, and the thousands of hearty, happy people in these wonderful concrete buildings, seventy-five per cent of the walls being glass—the sunlight flooding everything —and In some of the buildings ninety per cant Is glasa. These great works give employment to upward of five thousand people, and no mill In Massachusetts or In the United States pays an equal wage, the average weekly pay envelope being $15.70. I have visited many factories, stores, mills, shops all over the United States and in England. France, Scotland, Italy and Germany, but never havo I seen a big factory managed with the same superb attention to hygienic and sanitary conditions. In way of factory equipment and so-called factory betterments, no institution In America surpasses this, but all of the betterment work Is quite incidental and is a matter of course, without fuss, frivol or flummery. Bervlce the Keynote. Viewed from any and every possible standpoint the United Shoe Machinery Company has made the world Its debtor. Consumers, employees, inventors, producers of raw stock, stockholders, management—all have prospered, because a great service has been rendered. Business nowadays la based on reciprocity, mutuality, co-operation. The United Shoe Machinery Company is a splendid example of all three. It has made its wonderful success by making it possible for the consumer to buy today for three dollars a better, shoe than could he bought a quarter century ago for five dollars. And, after an. Is not the test of the worth of a corporation the service it gives to the people?

The Difference.

Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish, at one of those sumptuous Newport entertainments that havo made her famous, talked with her shrewd humor of a mercenary marriage. “And that man,” said Mrs. Fish’s interlocutor, in a shocked tone —"and that man to marry that beautiful girl! But isn't there a tremendous difference in the ages?” “Yes,” said Mrs. Fish, “about |32.000,000.”

• The fur trade uses 3,000,000 cat skins annually.

Her Dear Friends.

*T think Archie Allscads has nnute up his mind to marry,** said the vivacious blonde. “To marry Virgin Skeemer?” queried the sparkling brunette. “Üb-buh.” "What symptoms do you notion "Well, he wears a sort of res lifted, what’s the-use expression on his face, and doesn’t run when be sees her coming now."

The time you can depend upon a woman is when you are sick or to trouble.