Evening Republican, Volume 17, Number 239, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 October 1913 — Page 2

Soft, Small Hat Is Now the Thing.

JUST now it is the soft little hat, made of satin or velvet, that every one wants. Its crown is innocent of wires and its brim gets along with only one .or two. This hat fits snugly to the head, comes pretty well down and makes the hatpin unnecessary. It is charming and in addition to its modest size and comfortable fit, it is made up in black and in quiet colors. Black velvet trimmed with black moire or satin ribbon, and soft taupe or mauve zcrepe with velvet to match are among the most successful developments. Black is pre-eminent. Of a half dozen smartly dressed women one is liable to find four of them -wearing the soft little hat in black. . A few sparce and soft feathers are diked for trimming or a small, closeset bunch of quaint auttflnn flpwers, or ornaments made of a fabric like ithat in the hat. These hats are designed to be elegant and inconspicuous. Borders of- fur will finish many of them as the weather grows cold. Among the loveliest models for the coming season are velvet caps with (puffed crowns and a band of fur for

POPULAR BLACK AND WHITE

Almost Sure to Be the Leading Colors for the Conning Sea- ' son’s Costumes. *•' Black and white, the two most popular colors In the fashion chart, •which suffered a temporary eclipse warty In the summer, are prominently demonstratetd In the fashions where the pulse of the coming season’s (styles Is generally felt by the great designers of dress. "The union of black and white Is icertainly a ‘marriage de reason,’ for at is both practical and distinguished, and the fashion has lasted so long that every one Is astonished at so 'much constancy in the .realm of fashlion, which is always full of fantasy (and eager for novelty and change,** jsays an authentic fashion writer.

Black and whites are the tones ‘most in vogue for elegant toilettes. (Smart women of the world are bound ‘to have white costumes, black costumes and costumes in which black tend white intermingle. Here and ’there a brighter note is seen; sashes, coat, hats, sunshades are often of gay colors, but the predominating tones tat all fashionable gatherings are unidoubtedly black and white. Nothing is so distinguished as black ,and white cleverly and artistically i combined. On the one hand are seen (exquisite black dresses made of crampon, taffetas, satin, voile—charming (wear for the afternoon visit and for (garden parties. On the other hand, 'jwe see white frocks made of muslin jnet, lace, crepe de chine, to be kept ffor sunny days. Black always gives its wearers a fslimmer appearance, and there are (some women who do not look well in white. Still, on the whole, white is ‘decidedly the prettiest and most suitable tone for the seaside and for coun‘try wear.

For the Guest Room.

Keep in the upper bureau drawer in Ithe guest room a list of the articles •necessary to your guest's comfort Then when putting the room in order (for a prospective guest a comparison 'with the list will show wether everything is at hand and obviate the oft repeated “I wonder if that is everything.” Conspicuous on the list besides brush, comb, towels, fresh soap, •etc., should be work basket matches, might light, time table of household hours for meals, etc., stationery, good pens, fresh ink and blotters and cards of black and white and safety pinq iand a box of hairpins In assorted sizes.

Crepe Negligees.

White crepe negligees, embroidered with fine wool threads in soft colors, are very becoming. A long rest robe of the crepe shows a loosely arranged hunch of embroidered flowers at the It wo front corners of the skirt and a I trailing little streak of embroidery tap each side of the front At the neck the embroidery widens out Into E:e design. A dainty lingerie colills over and half conceals this

the brim part Lace and a littSe bunch of flowers trim some of them. Others are decorated with heavy, narrow ribbons —having a picot edge—made into stiff little bows like a cravat bow and mounted flat to the hat A hat that does early duty in the fall may take on the splendor of fur and lace, with a touch of vivid color in ornament or flower, when the snow flies. In spite of the prevalent soft crown and narrow brim there is a wide variety in shapes. Hats modeled after those painted by Rembrandt and called after the painter, are a feature of the season’s styles. It is only when one studies the work of the artist that an appreciation of these Rembrandt hats is possible. The soft, little hat is carefully made and carefully finished. Linings are of silk always matching the hat in color and of a substantial quality. Altogether the season presents so far the best standards of quality in styles and materials that have had. Judging from these early hats we are to rejoice in the popularity of real millinery. JULIA BOTTOMLEY.

Pretty Plush Bonnet for Little Maiden

HERE is one of those pretty plush bonnets that are destined to protect and adorn the heads of little girls when they are all dressed up. Plushes and all pile and napped fabrics are favored for many purposes, but more especially for millinery. This bonnet is made of silk plush in a light color laid ovef a frame. The brim is covered witn the plush on the upper side and faced with shirred chiffon on the under side. The crown is a puff of plush, not very full and supported by a crinoline interlining. The bonnet is lined with a desirable light-weight silk. The trimming is of the simplest character. A crushed band of wide, messaline ribbon about the crown and ties of the same. Where they are fas-

tened at the side, tiny nosegays of familiar flowers are sometimes used. Often smalt soft rosettes, made by shirring the ribbon or by little groups of very short loops, finish the trimming here. But her little ladyship may be indulged with little diminutive ostrich tips, or novel little fur ornaments, or specially designed rosettes, by way of pleasing her, if she is allowed a preference. Children’s millinery is so carefully designed at present that mistakes need not be made in the matter of making a choice.

Dropping Blouse.

There is one alleviation about the large waist line which was evidently an afterthought on the part of the dressmakers. This is the width of the blouse across the back and its fullness at the waist line. All the fashionable blouses are voluminous * below the arms, and they sag two inches ov.er the belt. As you can easily see, this fullness makes the waist line more defined and gives grace to the figure. Even when the belt is high, there is the same effect of the fullness, and the woman who has not yet learned this trick with her blouse should take It up, for it helps matters in a remarkable way.

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER, IND.

POLICING OF PARIS

Waldo Tells of Shakeup in the French Capital. Germans Are Very Law-Abiding— No One In Berlin Disobeys the Injunction on Placards Reading “Verboten.” New York.—“ London,” said Rhinelander Waldo, commissioner of New York’s police, “respects its police; Berlin obeys; Paris hates." Mr. Waldo didn’t discuss New York’s turn of mind toward the force. What’s the use of awaking sad echoes? He has just returned from a studious trip to Europe. "I found three great policemen in Henry, Hennion and Jagow," said he, “in Scotland Yard, Paris and Berlin. London’s police and police methods Correspond most nearly to ..those in vogue in the United States. The Paris detective system is being torn to pieces and rebuilt Berlin’s police department is a highly efficient humanized card index. Its main function is to keep tab.” Mr. Waldo explained the law-abid-ing ways and love of system of the German people.' “Wherever you go,” said he, “you find placards, ‘Verboten.’ That means ’forbidden.’ No one ever thinks of disobeying. They do not even question. If a mad wag were to slip into Germany over night and change all those ‘Verboten’ placards he would automatically alter the habits of an entire people.”

No German or Londoner ever thinks of assaulting a copper. In this town one of the favored sports at the weekly athletic meets of the Gas House gang or the Gophers is to whang a brick off a copper’s cap. “I asked a Scotland Yard official," said Mr. Waldo, “if the Londoners often assaulted his bobbies. “ ‘My dear fellow, no,’ said he. ‘lt simply isn’t done.’” Paris policemen are heavily armed and walk about* in pairs. Mr. Waldo did not care to go more deeply into this matter. He said that over in Europe they take the press seriously. One gathers, however, that the advantage of the arrangement is that there is usually a survivor after the Apache attack. A sort of 50-50 split, so to speak. He would not make a direct comparison of the personnel of the New York police force with that of the three /Other great cities. “The police force of a great city is always fairly representative of the citizens of that city," said he. “New York’s force has the defects and the merits that characterize New York’s people. As to honesty—whenever 11,000 absolutely honest men can be gathered by a civil service examina-

Rhinelander Waldo.

tlon there will be no need for a police force." It was suggested that the Hounsditch affair, in which London called out a regiment of infantry to capture a trio of anarchists, and the moving picture battles between the Paris police and the automobile bandits, would be inconceivable on this side of the water. "That comes under the head of ‘customs of the service,’ ’’ said New York’s police head. “We do things differently over here. That’s all." New York is the only one of the •four great cities which is under the municipal form of government Here, therefore, and in all other cities similarly governed, the police become an item in the political situation. “While I was in Paris,” said he, “a brigadier and six men were fired for grafting. That would have been a police scandal here. There it was dismissed with a line. Hennlon, who succeeded the famous Lepine as chief of Paris, was not at all satisfied with the bureaucratic detective bureau. He is rebuilding it on the plan in use in Scotland Yard and New York. Hennlon is but forty years old, looks like an American, has the energy of a dynamo and is a great detective. He is constantly on the lookout for improvements. “Under the old plan everything went to the central office in Paris,” said Waldo. "Hennlon is doing away with that and holding his division chiefs responsible for what goes on in their departments. That is the plan we took from Scotland Yard two years ago. Berlin is the only one of the world’s four great cities which still operates its police department under the old plan.

PRINCESS APPEALS TO BABIES OF RICH

Princess August-Wilhelm of Prussia has adopted a novel way of showing her gratitude for the birth of her first child after four years of marriage. She is starting" an organization the object of which is to provide for young mothers and infants of the poorer classes. Every well-to-do young mother who has just been blessed with an infant is expected to help. Instead, however, of appealing to the rich mothers, the princess’ organization proposes to appeal to their babies. At all houses where the stork has arrived a letter will be delivered beginning “Dear Litle One.” The letter will congratulate the baby on its good fortune in being born among the rich, and will continue: ‘‘There are thousands of others of thy age and size who have not thy advantage.” The end will be an appeal for money.

FORTUNES MADE BY JOCKEYS

What Favorites of the Turf Have Earned Riding the Ponies— Large Incomes Made. London.—During the hearing of the racing libel suit before Justice Darling in the lord chief justice’s court it was stated that Frank Wootton, the jockey, had ridden in no fewer than 3,000 races and that he received the sum of >2,500 for winning the Cesarewitch. It was also stated that he had >155,000 Invested in Australia. 'Well- known jockeys make large incomes, says London Tit-Bits, and when Tom Loates died some time ago he left an estate which was valued for probate at >371,710 gross—the largest fortune ever amassed by a riding crack. Retaining fees and presents represent the Jockey’s greatest source of wealth, and it is interesting to know that Tom Cannon received no less than >75,000, paid in advance, for first claim on his services for a term of years by the late Mr. Baird. Tod Sloan, the American jockey, was said to have saved over >500,000, out of his riding fees and retainers, which huge sum he is reported to have lost by unlucky speculations. In one year alone his fees amounted to nearly >75,000. One of Sloan’s greatest victories on the English turf was when he won the Goodwood cup for Mrs. Langtry on Merman. The race was worth >20,000, and Sloan is said to have received a fee of >5,000. When he rode Ballyhoo Bey to victory in the Futurity, the richest race on the American turf, .William C. Whitney, the owner of the animal, paid him >IO,OOO.

The total number of the late Fred Archer’s winning mounts reached 2,746. He won the Derby five times, the Two Thousand Guineas five times, the Opkes four times and the St Leger six times. For winning the Derby of 1885 Lord Hatlngs gave Archer 113,875. Presents ranging from Jewelry costing hundreds of dollars to a modest box of cigars were lavished upon Fred Archer by his admirers. On one occasion he pocketed presents amounting to over $50,000. At the senith of his career Archer had a large cash box filled with articles of jewelry valued at nearly $35,000, which were given to him by lady admirers. Daley, the jockey who piloted Hermit home as the winner of the Derby in 1867, received nearly $20,000 in presents from admirers and bookmakers, including a handsome check from the owner of the horse, Henry Chaplin. i Some race horse owners are exceptionally generous when their animals are victorious. The Count de Lagrange presented Grimshaw with $50,000 for steering Gladiateur to victory. For piloting Blue Gown first past the post in the Derby of 1868 Str Joseph Hawley, the owner, handed over to Wells, the Jockey, the entire stake 3, amounting to $27,500. In 1851 Sir Joseph presented Job Marson with $lO,-

000 for* winning the Blue Ribbon with Teddington. When John Watts won the Derby of 1887 on Merry Hampton he received >IO,OOO, and Lord Roseberry gave him a similar sum for winning the Derby of 1894 on Ladas.

GIVE UP SONS TO STATE HOME

Destitute Couple Weeps In Court as Husband Is Criticized by Lawyer. Duluth, Minn.—lnto the court records of Douglas county has been written a story of life’s ragged edge, fuller of pathos and homely sentiment than the usual offices of the court room afford. Elizabeth and James Johnson, father and mother, appeared before Judge Charles Smith in the juvenile court and asked the state to take care of their children. Woven into the proceedings was a tale of misfortune and adversity which when finished resulted in the commitment of two little boys to the state school at Sparta. Side by side on the witness stand sat husband and wife. Each had an infant. One was two years old and the other six months. Standing with his face against the wall and crying, was the eldest of the family, John. He is eight years old.

When Judge Smith sanctioned the commitment, John and Charles weje cut loose for all time from parental contact Mrs. Johnson has been married twice. To her present husband, James Johnson, she has been wedded five years, and their union has been illfavored. She has now four children, is a prospective mother, and one child has been burled. One is in a state institute in Minnesota, and the commitment of two recently leaves only a six-months old baby in the luckless household. The Johnsons are form Grand Rapids, Minn., where Mrs. Johnson owns a small farm, uncleaned and heavily encumbered. Six years ago the first husband, died and “Jim," the hired man, began suit for the woman’s hand and won it They were married. Facing one of the most difficult problems of existence, the couple appeared the other day and asked to be relieved of responsibility of the bare of-their children.

"I r u both made up your minds that you didn’t want these children any more," shouted Attorney D. E. Roberts, “and you decided to dump them on the state." The woman confessed affection for the man, and defended him "You must understand that you will never see your children again,” said Judge Smith. “Oh, your honor, can’t I ever get them back again?” moaned Mrs. Johnson. “No; they will go to Sparta to bo educated, and afterward they will be adopted by some reputable family. They are lost to you forever," said the court, as he made the commitment.

WAR REMINISCENCES

HARD BATTLE AT OOLUSTEE

Brief History of Struggles at Marian, na and Oolustee In Which Many - Were Killed and Wounded. i ■ In response to a request the editor of the National Tribune gives the following brief history of the battles at Marianna and Oolustee: Not being able to make any progress in the operations against Charleston, General Gillmore decided to mak® an expedition into Florida, and on January 13, 1864, General Seymour embarked on 20 steamers and eight schooners for the mouth of the St. John’s river. Jacksonville was easily occupied, with only a few shot® fired, and February 6 our troops / moved out along the railroad to surprise General Finnegan, in camp eight miles distant. Col. Guy V. Henry, in command of the cavalry, made a successful dash into Finnegan’s camp, capturing four guns, a large amount of equipage and commissary stores. he captured another gun, three cars and >500,000 worth of provisions and ammunition. He pushed on to Sanderson, 40 miles from Jacksonville, where he captured and destroyed much property, and struck Finnegan in position near the city. • Henry/fell back before the strong infantry force, and telegraphed Seymour, who had come to Sanderson with Infantry and artillery, for orders. Seymour had been ordered to concentrate his force at Baldwin, but Instead of this, and againsy the orders of his commanding officer he pushed forward with about 6,00 ft men straight into the country where the Confederates could concentrate an overwhelming force against him from Georgia and Alabama. Finding that he was marching out, Finnegan set a trap into which Seymour ran headlong. Our men, faint with hunger and a hard march of 16 miles over sandy ground, reached a point where the railroad runs through a long cypress swamp. In this swamp Finnegan had stationed his men, with hl® flanks thoroughly protected by the swamp on one side and Ocean Pond on the other. Before they knew it our men were in the trap, with a Are opening from both sides upon them. The artillery was rushed up to help them out, but the rebel skirmishers shot down the horses almost at once. Hamilton’s battery went into action 150 yards from the rebel front, and in 20 minutes lost 40 out of 50 horses and 45 out of 82 men. The whole thing was absolutely mismanaged, since if we had formed a line a half mile to the rear, we could, with the assistance of our artillery, have beaten back the entire Confederate forces. Colonel Hawley, with the Seventh Connecticut, was in the advance, and suffered severely, when the Seventh New York rushed to its support with three batteries of artillery. Next the Eighth United States colored troop, under Col. Charles W. Fribley was brought up on the double-quick. It was a new regiment, and had never been under Are before. In an hour and a half it lost 350 killed or wounded, with Colonel Fribley falling with a mortal hurt. Barton’s brigade—the Forty-seventh, Forty-eighth and One Hundred and Fifteenth New York—went into the battle and received fearful punishment. The commands were put in at intervals and whipped by detail. The last to go in was Colonel Montgomery with the Fifty-fourth Massachusetts and First North Carolina, both colored. Their charge, however, saved the army from fearful loss and prevented the advance of the Confederates. General Seymour showed reckless valor to atone for his mismanagement, and finally re-estab-lished what remained of his batteries farthest to the rear, where he protected the withdrawal of his men by heavy volleys of canister. The Seventh Connecticut covered the retreat, which was made deliberately, and the Confederates attempted no ’pursuit. We brought off about I,ooft our wounded and left in the Confederate hands about 250 more. The Confederates admitted a loss of 80 killed and 650 wounded, but beyond all doubt it was much greater. In his retreat Seymour burned up provisions worth >1,000,000.

On the Lieutenant.

A lieutenant was going along a country road, when a native with a gun on * his shoulder, followed by a dog, hove in sight. The dog snapped at the lieutenant’s horse, and in a fit of temper he pulled his revolver and shot the dog dead. Regretting what he had done, the lieutenant handed the native a dollar to soothe his feelings. "Where were you going with the dog and gun, anyway?” "Down to the woods to shoot the dog,” the man answered.

Got 'Out Just In Time.

At Fredericksburg some of pur boys were sharpshooting from an old outbuilding one evening, when the rebs got a line on the position and.dropped a shell inside. It exploded, and the tremendous concussion sent a German soldier out through the window. He landed about 20 feet away, and when he came to his senses sat g«king at the building, which was fired by the shell. A comrade came up and asked him if he was hurt. “No; I ain't hurt,” said he; “but X got oudt in time, didn’t I?”