Evening Republican, Volume 17, Number 222, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 September 1913 — NEW “WHITE MOURNING” [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

NEW “WHITE MOURNING”

W""!OR those who wish to observe a iH period of mourning and are con- « fronted by objections to all-black apparel, or find it not practical |for daily wear there is now the aliternative of all-white or white and [black in combination. In the smartest shops and at the leading costumers one may order mourning in either black or white. Crepe, which is the recognized insignia of mourning, has been used with wonderful effectiveness, especially in millinery. Black crape hats and veils, for first mourning, have been duplicated exactly in white crape. This is an exquisite fabric and since the designers began using it they have achieved some new and wonderfully beautiful effects not possible in other materials. It is not merely a whim of fashion that has brought about the adoption of the new “white mourning.” It is a change of sentiment with regard to the meaning of mourning apparel. One need not think very long to’conclude that white mourning is meeting a demand for something more than merely “the trappings and the suits of woe.” It is less oppressive than black; in fact it is not at ail somber. Those who are in mourning will not be obliged in the future to confine themselves to black or to white or even to combinations of these; for mourning fabrics are woven in gray and In certain lavender shades. But crape is most effective in black or •white. Tailored suits of white serge made up with exquisite neatness and faultlessly cut are favorites for mourning. Worn with either black or white hats and veils they cannot be excelled for elegance. A fad of the hour is to

wear black low shoes with white hose or high white shoes with their tailored gowns. Fdr white mourning veils all made of chiffon or. Brussels net or other veiling materials bordered with crape. These bordered veils are often draped on the hats in such a way as to provide their only trimming. They are nearly always thrown back off the face or draped to hang from the back of the shape which is almost Invariably made entirely of crape. One of the new, elongated shapes, with medium wide rolling brim, is shown here covered and trimmed with white crape. The veil of chiffon, bordered with crape, is arranged to be worn either over or off the face. There are almost no trimmings on the most elegant mourning hats except those that are made of crape. Roses and lilies are favorites and are wonderfully beautiful. A new shape, suggesting a poke bonnet is pictured here, made of black crape except for the facing, which is pure white in a rich soft quality of the material. This white facing redeems the hat from somberness and makes it a brilliant piece oF millinery. Besides, white next the face is most becoming to every woman. The coarse-meshed silk nets, bordered with bands of crape three inches wide, are having a strong vogue and are in thp majority among fashionable veils. Nevertheless' they are less becoming than chiffon. But veils are so seldom worn over the face that this item may be ignored. Nets are very strong and durable.

JULIA BOTTOMLEY.