Evening Republican, Volume 17, Number 204, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 27 August 1913 — Page 3

SMART HATS IN BLACK AND WHITE.

NOTHING smarter than the black and checked tailored suits has been developed this season. They the perfection of tasteful cbt in simple, graceful lines, and made up with a perfection of workmanship which is possible only when machines lend their precision in the process of manufacture. JiTow that designers use so much of the effects to be obtained .only by mechanical work, we find the tailored gown indebted to machine stitching for much of its style. To be worn with this trig costume the "tailored hat” makes its appearance every season, sure of the earliest welcome and the most lasting favor. Two of the very latest of thiß most satisfactory headwear are shown here, developed in satin. One shows a brim lifting at the side and faced with black while the body of the hat is satin of a sunny whiteness. There is no trimmtag except a pair of black and white wings mounted with a rosette of feathers. They are out-spread as in flight This hat is so full of style that is will lend distinction to the plainest of gowns. One of the new sailors is shown developed in black, satin which lies smooth to the frame. It is finished With a pair of wings simulated in satin and posed at the back of the hat. The shape is graceful with an elongated / crown and a very sligfit droop to the brim. '] \. , JULIA BOTTtfMLEY.

VANITY CASES OF ODD DESIGN

Manufacturers Have Devised Many New Ideas for This indispensable Appendage. The vanity case has become so much a part of a woman’s outfit that the manufacturers are discovering many odd ways for her to carry. It. To take one’s powder puff and lip rouge from one’s handbag has become commonplace; now a woman can tuck these in her bracelet. One of the new kind has flexible links of gold wire,, with the vanity bo? on top in the. shape of an oval medallion with* a handsome monogram.Or she can wear it around her neck as a sautoir. Fascinating vanity pendants are shown of all styles and prices, from tiny ones of French Jewelry to diamond studded boxes no I bigger than a child’s locket. Among Ithe most popular of the vanity cases jfor the neck are those of colored Rus|sian enamel on a linked' ghain to jihatch. Again, one may carry a Vanity box ion the end of the parasol, or as the |head of a big hatpin, disguised as a charm for her chatelaine, or everf set |in one of the big buttons that ornaiment her corsage draperies. One I girl, who wore a watch on the back lof one riding glove, had set in file iother a small vanity cade ready for instant use when she dismounted. Another girl has a similar case in the end of her crop. The new opera bags include a vanity box, and those that do not may be supplied with them by small pockets sewed to the interior of them.

VEIL ADDS MUCH TO EFFECT

Selection of Material and Its Adjustment Are Matters of the Utmost - Importance. One reason why the French woman —aristocrat or bourgeois—invariably looks so smart, is because of the care with which Bhe selects and puts on her veil. Just now she is wearing with her tailored hat a complexion veil of flesh-colored fine maline which, from a short distance does not show at all, and which makes her skin seem of dazzling fairness. On this veil, in the center of a threadlike flower spray or leaf pattern in self tone, is embroidered a "beauty” spot in black, and the strip of gauze is adjusted so that the spot strikes the face wherever it most becomes it —on one cheek, on the chin or at one corner of the mouth. This complexion veil, like many of those in all-over chenille-dotted or small hexagon mesh or in flower motifs or Irregular mesh, is drawn closely about the face and its ends tucked neatly awaj under the hat’s brim at the back. Craquele meshes in either bold or modest floral jar scroll pattern, Shetland and Chantilly lace veils, are worn with elaborate hats about which they are draped in a flowing, loose manner and their ends allowed to fall gracefully over the back of the figure.

This About Blouses.

They have waistcoats. vThat is, waistcoat effects. It is a broad vestee usually. material contrasts with the Mouse. Sharp points come out over the skirt front. j And it is finished off with fancy i buttons in true vest style. To date this is the newest touch ,shown of the blouses of the moffient

COOL SUMMER SUIT

Model of white moire trimmed with ruching of black maline. Postillion jacket, with sash falling to hem of skirt

Egyptian Basket.

A reddish brown wicker basket padded and lined with light brown satin, makes a lovely gift tb the graduate or bride, if it cpntalns an exquisitely band-painted, cut-glass bottle of Egyptian bouquet perfume, and a small satin pad of Egyptian bouquet sachet powder, attached to the handle of the basket by means of narrow sgtin ribbon. The basket itself will prove a permanent ornament to the dressing table, as ft- convenient re ceptacle for trinkets, owing to it* padded satin bed.

Traveler's Hint

Some women, who find the suit case of conventional size often larger than is needed for a short stay, buy the size sold for children’s use. These are much easier to carry, and are often amply sufficient Women going on ,a long trip will find the little case a great convenience to hold a few belongings for a considerable absense from the supply trunk.

Pretty Baby Caps

Use white lace allover, and draw the fullness in at the back with ribbon run through a tiny hem. tidge the bonnet with a lace ruffle, and make long strings of fine lace insertion about three lnohee wide.

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER, IND.

IN LAND OF TROUBLE

FiW Americans have ever visited the isolated parts of Albania, but those who have, recall the words: “Duhan, rakia, pushke, dashtina.” Meaning “tobacco, brandy, guns and love.” Guns are most in evidence, for every man must shoot —or be shot. This little land of blood feuds is tucked away ij* the group of mountains that form Montenegro. Much of it is a rocky, barren wilderness and not cultivatabb?. The heat in midsummer is''overpowering; but cold, shallow rivers run through valleys rich with Chert (es, figs and almonds. There are few bridges, and those who wish to cross usually wade. Market gardens line the river bankß. In them small ponds are made and the water dipped out witq immense wooden ladles afld showered on the crops. Albania is iruiablted by distinctly different tribes, each led by a hereditary standard bearer —an honor handed down fipm father to son, or the nearest nude heir. The chief or leader of each udbe is absolute master of the others and their flocks and worldly possessions are held in common. Of Strange Mixture. They are a st{ ange mixture of emotion and unnatural insensibility. They prefer to have a hand chopped off for theft, instead of serving a short prison sentence. They are broken-hearted over murdered son —but continue to shoot. They are proud of their high death rtte and spend n/ore for guns and ammunition than for food. They buy caps and powder and cast their own bu'*lets. Martini cartridges are most pcpdlar because they are easily filled and wound worse than the rapidfiring Mauser. For a severe wound at clOße range nothing can compare with their old-fashioned flint-lock, rammed with a dram of powder, a big bullet, spikes, glass phnters, etc. Many of the weapons art* silver mounted and ornamented with initiation sapphires or rubies. ' The old idea of purification by blood —blood vengeadce—is the ruling belief in Albania. Blopd only can wipe away blood; out it is taken strictly according to rule and not -classed with murder. A blow, of even ah'" insult, requires blood. Bjood only can cleanse the sin of marr/ing'a girl who was betrothed to another. Abduction or adultery demands blood. This does pot necessarily mean the blood of the offender himself—any male blood of his tribe answers the purpose. It Is against the rules to shoot a man when he is with a woman, a child, or a company of friends. Therefore, many men nevtr step out of doors alone. When on the march, men must walk a gun barrel apart; for if a gun should strike someone accidentally, the blow must be avenged. Women who always spin while marching, keep the length of a distaff apart. ' A man who entertains a stranger for one night, or even gives a flask of water, makes such a one his guest and is in honor bound to avenge him, should anything harm him before he is entertained by another. . Death follows in the waks of the most trivial things. One evening a party of men noticed an unusual number of stars in the* sky and argued as to which was the biggest, it is said. The dispute was finally settled-rafter 17 lay dead and 11 more were badly wounded. Have No Prisons. There are no prisons. Albania punishes by fines or fires. Death would simply start new feuds. When a man slays, he finds a place of safety and then announces that his honor is dean. That he is then liable to he shot by any member of the other tribe, troubles him not, but in a few districts a council bas authority to burn his house, demolish his cfops. kill his cattle and forbid him to work the

land. However, if •he returns home and defends it for ,three days so it cannot be fired he is allowed to retain it. He can also save it by inviting the lord of another tribe to take possession with a posse of sharp-shoot-ers to defend it Sometimes for business purposes an oath of peace is taken by two parties for*a stated period, and at festival time a week’s peace is sworn; so that all blood foes may attend church and the festivities without danger of death. During this week everybody is very gity and friendly. At the end of that time they instantly become bitter enemies ag&in! / In most towns the entire population can turn out under arms inside of ten minutes and the smell of gun powder is like blood to a tiger. Gurizi (Black Stone) is a Moslem village that derives its name from an enormous rock. It is full of greyishwhite dogs with wolf blood in/their veins, who are taught to attack strangers on sight. Puppies too young to walk will snap fiercely at passersby and no stranger can enter the town with safety. In some villages houses are formed of irregular stones, with a stable on the first floor and living room on the second, with a covered balcony across the front. Windows are small and very scarce, and most Of the light comes through broken root tiles, which also provide an outlet for smoke from open fires. There is little or no furniture. The rough stone walls are covered with guns and field implements and festooned with drying fish and meat Other food is hung in, tight baskets from the rafters, beyond the reach of rats. Rude cooking dishes made of clay and ehopped pigs’ bristles are kept in an alcove near the fire. Large tree trunks are dug out and used to hold food and small pieces of the trunk are hollowed out for bowls. A wattled larder for milk standß*on posts in the yard. Clothes are kept in rudely-painted, clumsy chests. The floor of thick plaqks, hewn by an ax, is always cluttered with household belongings. The family sleep in hurdles hung from a tie-beam of the roof and supported by a pole underneath. Sheets are of white felt and pillows of bright red cotton. Very often *a sheep is penned in one corner of the room and a pig in the other! Goats are tethered near the fire! Albanians are friendly and hospitable with everyone, as a rbie, except blood enemies. When guests come within howling distance of |he house they are to visit, they begin to yell greetings and empty revolvers —which is heartily returned by their host and kept up until they are inside by the Are that always blazeji and the tamborttza that always tinkles music. News travels fast —being actually shouted from town to town. The Albanians have peculiar, powerful voices; and can hurl messages across the valleys with great force. In an hour a message can be sent, and an answer received from a place 12 hours distant by horseback. Anyone hearing the shout, repeats It and sends It further. There are no doctors in the country. The sick usually wait for death on a heap of rags in some dark corner full of lice. y v An old custom still in vogue is swearing brotherhood. If a man becomes very fond of a friend he asks him to be h!s brother. Each ties g string around the little finger so tight that H swells. It is then pricked and the blood allowed to drop on a loaf of sugar. ,The sugar is then exchanged and eaten —making both men of the same blood! If either has any feuds the other is In honor bound to avenge them —so swearing brotherhood usually means more shooting. The few who are not shot live to a great age.

GOOD JOKES

TWO NEIGHBORS. Two neighbors kept hens and quarreled because they scratched each other’s potato rows up. One Bold his hens unknown to the other, who made a large run and fastened his hens up, saying: "Now,‘the first hen I see in my garden I shall shoot.” Next day he saw a hen scratching as usual, so he got the gun and shot it, then threw it over his neighbor’s rails, saying, “Take your hen!” The hen was picked up, taken in, and cooked. u The toileting days the same thing happened!' Still the neighbor took them up and said nothing, till the seventh came over and hit him on the head. Then he picked it up and threw it back qt his neighbor, saying: “Eat your old hens. We are tired of eating thfem, and prefer a little pheasant. I sold my hens over a month since!”— Tit-Bits,

Helping the Hordes.

| A map riding on the front platform & ‘downtown horse car in a city -where horse cars still run noticed standing beside him a tired looking Irishman who held a heavy bundle on his shoulder, - j “Why don’t you set that bundle ddwn on the platform?” asked the gentlaman. - ‘‘Sure,” said the Celt, “these poor horses have all they can do to dr-rag the car and the pay-pie. 01*11 carry the bundle."

Not In Vain.

Henry hever knew stairs could be so frolicsome and alpine until that midnight. He had reached the turning point of his perilous journey when his wife appeared, armed with the wellknown candle and poker. “You're drunk. Henry?” she cried, vindictively. “You’re drunk!” “Well, if I ain’t,” responded Henry demurely, "I’ve spent $3.65 for nothing at all.” And he wept.—Judge.

A THREAT.

Mr. Bug—Say, old man, quit that or I’ll tell all the mosquitos in the neighborhood to come around and bite the stuffing out of you.

Getting Worse.

The man who goes to pieces Won’t father many hits. Because glme just Increases The fragmentary bits.

Thankful.

Giles met an acquaintance on 'the street x the other day, although! he artfully tried to avoid him. “Hello, Giles, deah boy!” exclaimed the other. "So glad to see you. ll’m going to London next week; can I do anything for you?" "No, • going’s enough, thanks,” replied Giles, moving on.—LippincOtt's Magazine. '

Strike Broken.

Master of the House —See here. (Mary Ann, where’s my dinner? Slavey—Theer ain’t agoin’ to be no dinner, if you please, sir. "What’s that! No dinner?” "No, sir. The missus came ’ome from jail this afternoon, an’ ate up heverythink in th’ ’ouse!”

The Lure of It.

"She chose a life in the ranks of the chorus, I understand, rather than become milady’s maid.” “Well, why shouldn’t she? Theire’a a great deal of difference, when you come to think of it, between being Fanchon St. Claire and Maggie Petera.”

Merely Unfortunate.

"There is some dark secret connected with his son’s career in college.” "Nothing involving moral turpitude. He struck out the day of the big match, with the bases full.”

Paradoxical Progress.

"What’s the best way to get forward?” “Get backing.”

Matter of Taste.

He —I never see your great friend, the baroness, with you now. Have you quarreled? 8he —Oh, no; but our don’t go well together just at present, so we are careful never to be seen with each other.

Rather Risky.

Edith —How mahy times did you refuse Jack before you married him? Alice —Only once. He seemed so discouraged I was afraid to try it a second time. %

English Geography.

A professor from lowa went to England last summer, and was introduced to a professor from one of the English universities. He met the American and said: “I met one of your colleagues last summer. We had another professor from Ohio to visit us.” "But I am from lowa.” “lowa, indeed? —very interesting! lam sure the other gentleman called it Ohio.”—Publisher’s Weekly.

HE HAD RIDDEN IN ONE.

Nilson —The Pullman Car Co. paid dividend of 15 per Cent lost year. Bilson —It would be twice as much they made tpe porters whack up. -

Above the Fashions.

Though trains not any more are seen On women's skirts, please note. Night wears the “trailing garments” still Of which Longfellow wrote. ,

Probably Shrank, Too.

A young chap entered the water at Atlantic City' in a 40-cent suit of blue flannel. As he splashed about he was joined by a girl friend. The girl flashed her bright eyes tumbling expanse of sea and then, with a sigh of delight, she said: “Isn’t the water blue today?” “It’s shameful,” said the man, with a hot blush, “it’s perfectly shameful how this cheap bathing flannel runs.”

Resignation.

“The court of appeals has decided in our favor,” announced the younger lawyer. “H'm!” mused the head of the firm, in a melancholy tone. “Case tried only once. Well”—and he recovered bis equanimity by a great effort—“l sup pose we must be satisfied to let it go at that”—Puck,

Exchange of Curtesies.

“This man who wants board oh credit claims to be a foreign nobleman." . •’’Show you gny proof?” askdd the proprietor. V “Showed me a photograph 'of a castie.” ** . “Well I have no objection to yott showing him a photograph of a bans sandwich.’’ ' . -

Needless Expense.

"Father,” asked the girl who was going to marry a poor man. "do you think I ought to take a ‘course of household economics. They offer • lovely dne at Briny Moore for $300."’ "No,” implied pater grimly. "Too wtll get one for nothing after you ar» married."—Judge. *

Playing.

"When a family seemed pinched in circumstances the first thing we asked was whether a woman's husband played the horse races.” “Yes,” replied Miss Cayenne. "Now the first thing we ask is whether » man's wife plays bridge."

A JOB.

Mr. Landlord Bug—Well, how about the rent? Mr. Tenant —Well, you’ll have to come in and get it if you want 1L

Slow Fellow.

She waa a moat disdainful miss; He got n freezing look. She told him he could hare one kiaai And one area all he took.

S lave s to Duty.

"We have been appointed on the committee to investigate the alleged baseball trust." said Representative Wombat “A serious matter,” responded Reo resentative Wallaby. “We shall. »>t course, have to attend all the games.”

Surprising.

"I have noticed one queer way in which nature works with opposites. - * ••What, th.tr ’-so often the Using wind mean failing weather.''