Evening Republican, Volume 15, Number 33, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 8 February 1911 — Winter Months on the Farm [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Winter Months on the Farm

How to Improve Them

Work for Farm Mechanics

By PROF. C. A. OCOCK

» Vbeomb, CM*, of Jlgricatiure

CORrrixbt. 1910, by Wttttn N«w»pap«r Union

Every farm should be equipped With a farm shop in which the owner can repair broken’parts of farm machines or make new ones and thereby save both time and money by making use of the winter days when other work is slack. The shop may be eitber a small bnlldlng by Itself or simply corner of the barn or implement shed fitted up as a shop. One rule however should be rigidly enforced; that the shop la a storehouse for‘the j tools, and that every tool should be returned to its place in the shop after being Used. The Farm Workshop. Among the essentials In the farm ahop are a strong, durable work bench, an iron vise, an efficient forge, anvil, and a supply of carpenter’s tools corresponding to the needs of the individual farmer. A good forge editable for general farm work can be purchased for |5 to sl2, or where an extra large one is desired it will cost

Plan of a good farm shop to be built On the end of a machine shed. about 230. In some cases one can build his own forge and the only expense will be for the bellows, which will cost about |4, second-hand. The .best plan is to get a forge of No. 5 size, which will cost about 210, and is both practical and efficient. The supply of carpenter’s tools In the shop will vary with the Individual, put a few of the necessary tools inelude a cross-cut saw, rip saw, compas'B or keyhole saw, hammers, drawshave,, hatchets, axes, saw set; saw file, 3 chisels (%, i and 2 Inches), brace and set of bits, 3 planes, smoothing, finishing and block), a steel square, tri-square, bevel-square, and a spirit level. With such an equipment the average farmer can do the greater part of his repairing on the home farm.

Home Carpentry for Farmers. Among the various tasks which should occupy the farm mechanic during the slack winter period are building or repairing chicken houses, hay racks, wagon boxes, hog racks, portable panel hurdles, farm gates and various other implements, which the amateur carpenter can successfully construct or remodel. The matter of farm gates seems simple, yet on numbers of farms the makeshift gates in use are a disgrace. A serviceable and attractive gate can be easily built with double oleats at each end and the middle, and a double brace running diagonally from the top of each end cleat to the bottom of the middle cleat for re-enforcement. Repairing Tools. The farm mechanic can use his forge to excellent advantage in repairing machinery parts, broken tools, horseshoeing, and in numerous other odd jobs which are continually turning up around the farm. With a little practice he can soon acquire ability to weld together broken parts. He can also use his forge in repairing or, tempering shovels, pickaxes, grubaxes, broken log chains, and other articles

of this nature. Practice is the only essential necessary to make the farmer proficient in both welding and tempering. Concrete Work. The farm shop, or a portion of one of the barns where it is warm enough to keep concrete from freezing, is an excellent place in which to make concrete feeding troughs, fence posts or other devices during the winter. The feeding troughs are made either Vshaped or half-round like a hollowed out tree trunk. The concrete posts may oe either hollow or solid, and are roenforoed with steel or iron rods. For the feeding troughs the forms are made of green lumber, in the form of two boxes, one about four inches larger than the other. Turn the smaller one upside down on a smooth floor and put the second, which has no bottom, around the first Fill the space with concrete and cover the bottom of the smaller box four or six inches deep to form the bottom of the trough. After the concrete is thoroughly hardened these forms can bs knocked off. In case of the V-shaped trough there are two' triangular end boards, and the two side boards United at tbs bottom of the trough.

The mixture used In feeding troughs is a 1-3-5 combination; that is, 1 part cement, Z parts sand and 5 parts clean broken stone or gravel. The stone or gravel should not be larger than onehalf inch in diameter. The sand should be free from sticks, straw or dirt, and the cement a good grade of Portland. Place the cement In the center of the pile of sand at one corner of the mixing box and mix dry until the mixture has the same color throughout. In the opposite corner place the stone and wet thoroughly; after this mix stone, sand, and cement, adding water until the whole mass has a medium consistency. Use a mason's brick trowel to work out all air bubbles, leaving a smooth surface. When desired a finishing coat of 1 part cement and 2 parts sand can be used: The re-enforcement can be either 3-16 inch steel or iron rods or double twisted barb wire. Place the re-en-forcement the same distance from the surface as its own diameter. The reenforcements should run lengthwise of the trough, with a strand at each end and one in me middle running crosswise. . . _>■ Making Concrete Pen& Posts. In making solid concrete posts a mixture of one part cement, 2ft parts sand, and 5 parts clean broken stone or gravel is used. The preparation of the concrete is the same as for the troughs. The post forms should be made of a fair grade of rather green lumber, should have the Inner surface smooth, and all joints tight, to prevent the cement from leaking away with the water. The forms permit of the post being made 7 feet long and 4x4 inches square at the ends. The bottom board has holes to correspond to the dowel pin In the side boards, the iron clamps used preventing the side boards from spreading. The same re-enforcement as for feed troughs can be used. When filling the form with concrete, place % to % inch in the bottom of the form, then lay In two rods one on each side; continue the filling until within % Inch of the top, when the remaining two rods should be properly laid in, Bach rod should have a hook at

Forms and cores for molding solid and hollow concrete posts. At A lw shown the parts of a form for a solid post. At B those parts are assembled ready for making the solid post. At C Is shown the same forms with the core In It for a hob low post. At D a tapering metal core, and at E a solid wooden core In four parts, which are separated at F to show details of construction. each end about 1 inch long to prevent the steel from slipping in the ’ concrete when a strain is put upon the post. To provide for fastening the wire fence to the post use the longest galvanized iron staples that can be purchased, and while the cement is still soft set them the same as you would drive them into a wooden post. Hollow Concrete Post. For hollow concrete posts the operation is the same except that there is a hole left in one of the end gated of the form to receive the galvanized iron core. This core should taper from 2V4 inches in diameter at the bottom to 1 inch at the top. In using the core It should be covered with a coat of oil or grease and then it can be removed In from 3 to 8 hours after the post la molded. The wood core Is made in four pieces. The two sides are flat Inside and curved outside. The two central pieces are 1 inch thick and taper from 1% inches to 1 Inch in width. This core is 254 Inches in diameter for Its entire length. When using the wooden core it is more desirable to make the post square from top to bottom. To successfully use this core, wrap it with old newspaper or thin wrapping paper. .This prevents the cement from coming in direct contact with the wood and permits of the removal of the core in 10 to 20 minutes after the poet la finished. Curing the Posts, The side boards of the forms should bs removed In 24 to 48 hours after pouring, but the posts should not be moved for at least ope week and then very carefully. In the meantime they should be sprinkled with water several times daily and protected from ■un and wind and from frost if it be freezing weather. Posts should cure at least 60 days before being set in the ground. During this period "they should, if possible, bs placed upon a bed of moist sand and thoroughly wetted each day. Prices of materials may vary In different localities, but the average price including labor will range from 28 to 80 cents per post* ■ ' *3