Daily Tribune, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 21 March 1915 — Page 17

MAGAZIKE SECTION

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Cottons from France and Linens from Ireland Despite the War In CrewelEmbroideredCottonsRankWithExclusive Fabrics in Price-Organ-die Frocks for Summer Frilly and Diaphanous.

please, these days—from simple

little affairs of twenty-five cent

orate confections of voile and dropped over expensive silk, for formal afternoon functions. The accessories that accompany the tub frock proclaim its degree of exclusiveness more than its mere material. Thus, a tucked batiste gown, simple and chaste in design becomes, when worn with bronze slippers, a flower-wreathed hat and a luxurious parasol, a costume for the country club on a fete day. Th-e same costume accompanied by white canvas pumps, a panama hat and a coaching parasol of white silk will euggest morning on the beach. It is imperative, therefore, in selecting the tub costumes for summer, to provide one's accessories carefully, for bv them will one's wot elaborate wardrobe be made to do duty on various occasions.

It is really surprising how many imported weaves one finds among the "wash fabrics" as most cotton stuffs are still called in the shops though "wash" is a relative term applied by tradition and courtesy, for few of the higher priced cottons are supposed to visit the ordinary washtub. When one pays four dollars a yard for the material of one's frock, two dollars is not a \great deal to give for its occasional freshening: and a frock does look so new. so satisfactory, after a visit to the cleaner's that the expense is well worth while.

Linens From Tipperary-Way. Belgian and Irish linens are obtainable in satisfactory quantities and at agreeably low prices. Of course all these imported linens were purchased late last season, before the war started in August—there may net be such an abundance of them by another summer, so the woman who loves the cool beauty and fine texture of these ii.nens should stock up this year. The Belgian liner.s are

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among the dainty tub costumes illustrated. Simple a.nd severe as an aid-fashioned buttoned-down-the-front wrapper, this pink linen frock is exceptionally smart for morning wear and should launder well also. Bodice and skirt are cut—at the front—in one piece but while the bodice is gathered into the waistline the fullness of the skirt portion is taken lip by tucks. The front breadths have

_T_ .been slashed at the waistline to withUB frocks may be anything you! ,n

five inches

of the center-front on

either sidet and

after gathering and

tucking were done

dimity for the morning, to elab- fu]iy covered by the stitched belt, ranfoctinr. rc lace, j-jjg back, bodice and skirt are sep-

slightly heavier than the Irish sort and they are not in high style favor this are ideal for tailored suits: some

the Irish linens are soft and fine as cambric and the colors are lovely. A pale pink Irish linen frock Is

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the slash was art-

arate, the skirt breadth being tucked across the top while the bodice is gathered into the waistband. The broad, stitched belt goes all around the back to cover the joining of skirl and bodice. The long sleeves have deep cuffs of machine embroidery fo match the neat little embroidery collar that finishes the neck. The white straw hat that accompanies this morning frock is banded with pink grosgrain ribbon on which lines of white braid and white buttons effect a novel trimming. At the front, a tiny nosegay of heliotrope nestles against the brim.

Long Sleeves the Rule. All' tub frocks will have sleeves to the wrist this summer. There is no deviation from this adamantine rule, save in the case of dancing dresses of organdie or voile which are being made up with the old-fashioned puffed short sleeve of the 1830 period. Long sleeves are not as comfortable as elbow sleeves, but on all cotton frocks intended for wear in public they must be—this year. On her house frocks woman may have the sort of sleeves she will and one feels sure most house frocks will be made with cool, comfortable elbow sleeves, fashion or no!

On Military Lines.

A linen frock on military lines i3 myrtle green in color—iand, by the bye, green is the color of colors in linen this year for street wear. A green linen gown, a black straw hat trimmed with green and black grapes and a green and black striped taffeta parasol—can you imagine a cooler or more charming regalia for a midsummer morning? Tan linen is good also, and the army blue shades are sure to be popular but be wary of the brown and terra cotta tones—

season. To return to the myrtle green military frock, spoken of earlier it has

a short, ripple skirt on which are two white tone and the

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ripple flounces, one applied at the hip, the other just under the edge oi the first and falling below the \inee. This gives the skirt the effect of three ripple flounces. The waistline is high and is defined by a black velvet sash fastening under a buckle of the green linen at one side, two ends of the velvet falling below the hip at the side of the flounced skirt. This stiff sash is military in suggestion and carries out the idea of the bodice which has black cord frogs festooned across the front over a panel made by pleats that run down from the shoulder line to the sash. Smaller frogs trim the long sleeve which comes well over the hand. At tho neck is a starched eton collar, exactly like a little boy's collar but minus any tie.

Another very good military model in linen is of two shades of tan. The full, gathered skirt of light tan linen has a five-inch hem of dark tan which turns at the front and runs up the front to form a double panel, though the skirt does not open all the way down the front as this panelhem suggests. The basque-bodice of dark tan linen falls over the waistline in short tabs and has half a dozen frogs of the lighter tan, stitched all around and appliqued to the bodice fronts.

The white linen frock with a checked taffeta sash has almost the formality of a coat and skirt costume, but it is really a frock and is all in one piece. The linen is a finely woven Irish quality, in the fashionable pearly

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TERKE HAUTE, IND., SUNDAY, MARCH 21, 1915.'

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checks of pure white, gray-white and black. The applied yoke, cut out at the neck in a shallow is a clever idea—above the box pleats at front and back of the frock and though a high

collar

is suggested, tho straps

of black velvet across the bare throat in front will be found delightfully cool on a summer day.

Cotton Voile In Stripes. There are innumerable patterns of black and white cotton voile—that reliance of the practical woman for allsummer wear—but the majority of the designs come in black and white, or in gray and white. A new cotton voile with coarsely threaded black worsted producing the stripe effect is pictured in a very pleasing tub frock for summer days. These worsted embroidered cottons are by no means cheap for they are among the exclusive novelties, but they are especially smart and distinctive. The pictured frock is of white voile worstedstriped with black and plain white voile in combination. A sash of black velvet, and its echoing note, a narrow black velvet necktie, bring the whole costume into harmony. The white hat, parasol and footwear add to the daintiness of this costume and give a smarter suggestion than would be possible with black accessories.

This striped black and white frock has elbow sleeves, to be sure, but its very evident modishness of line and the distinctiveness of its material give It a perfect right to be as independent

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as it pleases in the detail of sleeves. 1830 Features in a Dainty House I Frock.

Rlbow sleeves appear again on the house frock of flowered crepe, but they are very modern—otherwise very old-fashioned bell sleeves borrowed from the 1S30 period now the crazc ir 'dress These bell sleeves and also the full skirt are trimmed with narrow velvet ribbons—another old-fashioned feature. The frock is of lavender and white embroidered crepe, another exclusive fabric in cotton weave—though the design might be carried out ad

KVER in the annals of dress have parasols been such coquettish affairs as they are this year. It seems as though Fashion, determined not to be depressed by war and its attendant somber in-' fluences, had concentrated all her energy on making the parasol the very epitome of gaiety and frivolity and the parasol, having received permission to be as gay as it pleases has made the very most of its opportunity.

There are plain, tailored parasols, of course—for women who insist upon them for use with tailored costumes, and in town: but they seem few and far between in contrast to the array of flowered, frilled, puffed, latticed, tasseled and tulle veiled parasols that disport in every shop window where spring apparel is on view. Even the tailored parasols—or coaching parasols as thev have been called for years—are not by any means as plain as these parasols used to be. If they are of plain silk that silk is puckered between the ribs Into a hcavv cording or graduated tucks break the surface of the cover. Sometimes striped and plain silks are used in combination or there may be two kinds of striped silk—as in a parasol just added to an after-Easter trousseau. This, parasol is supposed to be strictly tailored and will be carried with a tailored suit of silk serge and faille in the new cement shade —between sand and putty. The parasol is a magpie affair in black and white striping—very smart such a combination with a tailored suit in the neutral tone mentioned. There are three sorts of stripes on this para

A severe parasol for tailored cos-

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TRIBUNE

mirably in one of the printed crepes at thirty or forty cents tlie yard. The fullness of the skirt is controlled by box pleats which are set in at the belt but stitched down only over the hips, the material being pressed to the hem to preserve the pleated form. :A delieiously o.uaint fichu of net and lace finishes the bodice and the sash of wide pompadour ribbon and lavender taffeta, is fastened undei- a flat knot at one side.

White Tub Frocks For Mid-summer Organdies, sheer batistes and oldfashioned dotted swisses are the I choice for mid-summer frocks. Dimi

sol. each strip of striped s.'lk being exactly the same width as the others so that the parasol cover is divided into three transverse sections inch wide black and white stripes at the lower edge, tiny peppermint stripes at the top, and between enormously wide stripes that give the effect of black and white blocks around the cover. A handle in ebony finish adds just the right touch.

A very good-style parasol of the tailored sort, is pictured. These sunshades are intended for use with costumes of tailored type, for the ruffled one. called very appropriately the "tulip parasol," is of silk only, revealing none of the lace frills, bowknots or other marks of coquetry which are loaded on the sunshade destined for use with a thin summer frock. The plainer parasol in th^s picture is of sand-colored taffeta with pipings of white satin. The trimming is simple but it lends great style to the parasol, in other respects an ordinary coaching model. The "tulip parasol" is of American beauty rose silk with tiny pipings of striped pussy willow taffeta in black and white. The five layers of scallops—or perhaps one should call them petals—are graduated in

A frivolous affair called "The Tulip."

width to give the effect of lightness at the top of the paxasol. This model comes in all coiors and is particularly beautiful in orange yellow—a veritable "tulip" then!—and in leaf green which looks shady and cool as well as chic.

MAGAZINE SECTION

ties are also good, because of the vogue for old-fashioned effects, but plain white dimities are never asgraceful—for some reason—aa the flower-sprigged dimities in color. Tucks, ruffles, corded puffings and insets of net are the favored trimmings for white dresses of simple character. More elaborate lingerie costumes are of embroidered net and lace, over silken linings. Strikingly new and possessed of high1 distinction is the hemstitched white frock pictured. The material is sheer French batiste, sxquisitely soft and fine.- The broad tucks, in graduated width, are all set. in with" hemstitching done by hand. Sleeve and neck frills are also hemstitched by hand. The sash is of white ribbons 7"

deep yellow, and purple tone3 on the white ground, and a purple velvet ribbon runs around the eclge of thQ parasol. with little bows midway between the ribs. When the parasol is ciosed these little bows are particularly coquettish. The girl who carries this pansy-flowered sunshade wears an 1830 poke bonnet to match. Leghorn straw is covered over the top of crown and brim with the pansyflowered silk and the streamers are of

Ten little bows perch like bluebirds on this pansy-flowered parasoL

pale violet ribbon. At either Bide ofr,,?*, the crown are clusters of whit® berries and green leaves.

Parasols-for formal Occasions—regatta days, country-club openings or garden parties, touch the high mark of parasol luxury. Some of them are of real lace over tinted silk with festoons and knots of the silk outside the lace ruffles. Flowered silk pM sols in the small, curved shapes co sidered most dressy and formal, ha tulle wreathed around the edg caught against the parasol with sma buckles or bowknots. A sunshade o» this sort is of pink pussy willow taffeta flowered with white. In3ide Is a

Shady also is the "sheltering palm" parasol of generous size with a cover of pansy-flowered pussy willow tafI feta shirred between the ribs of tho fram*1. The pansies are in pale and 1 Continued or

lining of thin, plain pink silk. White I tulle over pink tulle is wreathed around the edge and small pink roses are tucked against the filmy folds here and there. Could a lovelier parasol for use with a white summer frock be imagined?