Daily Tribune, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 11 October 1914 — Page 17

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MAGAZINE SECTION

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Summer Ermine Though Not White Heads the List of Exclusive Pelts Waistcoats of Contrasting Fur Give the New Fur Cape Much Style=Sealskin Undiminished in Fashionable Favor.

LTHOUGH winter temperature is still many weeks away in New York and other eastern cities—fur trimmings are making their appearance on fall coats and frocks, and the new fur wraps 3-re being displayed temptingly in the furriers' windows along Fifth avenue and on Thirty-fourth street. Fur fashions are established for the coming season, and only wintry weather is lacking to make their immediate enjoyment possible by womankind.

On September thirteenth, a perfect summer Sunday with cloudless blue skies overhead and gentle breezes wafting from the South—a'day when White frocks were comfortable out of dcors, and folk in the country were disporting on tennis court and golf links—the scribe counted a dozen or more well-dressed women wearing furs on Fifth avenue, between the Waldorf and the Plaza. That is, smart new tailored suits had bands of fur at collar and cuff and stunning new redingote -coats, belted and falling below the knee, were finished at the neck with flare collars of sealskin, skunk and the new Siberian mink, or kolinsky. Very uncomfortable these fur wearables must have been, and one could not declare, either, that they looked modish, so exceedingly oppressive and summery was the day. But to what lengths will not women, intent upon being in the van of the fashion, go to achieve their ambition? Surely, furs on a mid-summery afternoon are no more inconsistent than straw hats and pumps in February, when pneumonia lurks around every corner in the chilling blasts that sweep up from the river?

Chilling blasts, however, will very ioor. be on their way now. October is almost half gone and the next two weeks will be the busiest of the year in retail fur houses, anybody may wear a handsome fur ollar in midOctober without appeJ ring actually absurd, and very soon-—the lover of furs ardently hopes—'he air will be frosty enouj"j i'o m-^e fur wraps comfortable.

Novel Effects Re^iy For The New Season. It is marvelous what the furriers have done this year with furs. Familiar pelts are used in new and interesting ways, and several unfamiliar pelts have osaie to the front to take a high place, in fashio?.. The use of fur in waistcoats is a feature of the season. T1 waistcoats, set in wraps and coats of sealskin, broadtail, and velvet, are usually of some effectively patterned pelt like leopard, chinchilla, tailed ermine or the new Russian mouse which is suspiciously like ihe coat of the humble American chipmunk which disports along the 2t fence rails in New England. There is

Muskrat Masquerades As Seal. Three-fourths of Lhe new "sealskin" coats and capes are of muskrat. more commonly known as Hudson Bay seal. This pelt, when dyed to a rich, dark brown color, is exceedingly handsome and is more durable than genuine seal, which must often visit the renovater to have rubbed patches repaired. A well-cut wrap of dyed muskrat costs a substantial price, but is well worth the money and of course there is no comparison between its cost and the cost of a similar garment of real sealskin. Some of the high-class furriers are making a specialty of rather short fur coats— not more than thirty-four or thirtysix inches long, with belts set at a low waistline. These short fur coats are youthful and jaunty in effect, but are becoming to slender women only, al-1 though for some unexplainable reason stout women seem to prefer them fervently.

More appropriate to lines that lean to enbonpoint are the graceful capes which fall between hip and knee. Such a cape, of Hudson Bay seal, or dyed muskrat, is pictured. A feature of its smartness is the waistcoat of Russian mouse. This waistcoat buttons up close to the throat and protects the chest perfectly. The «eal cape may be buttoned' across it or. very cold days. Do not overlook the curved pockets at either side of the waistcoat. They are outlined with a I tiny line of the seal and the waistcoat fastens with amber shell buttons.

In the better class of fur wraps the

cape is a prevailing feature, but when winter winds blow, a cape is more comfortable in a limousine than on the street, and it is notable that in popular priced fur wearables there are more coats than capes. Sometimes the back of the coat is cut in ripple effect which suggests the cape idea, while the fronts fasten trimly in coat fashion. All sorts of sleeves are I shown, from close-fitting coat sleeves to wide sling-sleeves, and bishop sleeves gathered into a frill at the I wrist.

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This ^nopper'f Mutt of Chinchilla Cor\laiT\s an Inner

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a veritable craze for kolinsky and fortunately, because of the favor its appearance in a few exclusive garments caused last winter, a quantity of this fur was secured before the beginning of the war in Europe. A cape of kolinsky is pictured, and naturally this is a very expensive garment, not only because of the Siberian fur of which it is built, but also because of its smart and modern style. The cape is in ripple cut, nearly two dozen handsome fur tails dangling from the lower edge. At the front is a waistcoat of kolinsky with deep revers of spotless ermine, and there is also a collar of kolinsky faced with ermine.

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Ruffles of Fur.

Pleated frills and whole flounces of fur are among the surprises in fur wearables this autumn. New coats of seal, broadtail and moleskin, have rippling flounces of the pelt set oit: below a wide belt, and some of the cape effects are so full and rippling that an enormous amount of fur is required to make them. The barrelmuff with rippled ends, or gauntlets, is particularly stunning, and fur frills on the sleeves are quite the usual thing. Summer Ermine and Monkey Create

A Furore.

Even more fashionable than snow white ermine is the hitherto unfamiliar summer ermine which is a delicate brown in color. This is the shade of the wee* ermine during the summer months when it runs about over bare rocks instead of through drifting snows. During the changing period the ermine is light brown streaked with white, and these streaked pelts are also high in fashion's favor.

Another fur which is a fad this season is monkey. Now no one, by any stretch of the enthusiasm, can possibly call the straight, shiny, monkey pelt beautiful but when it is smart, it is very smart indeed—and when it it not, it is horrid exactly like the little girl in the familiar nursery rhyme. About twenty-five years ago monkev was the rage, and here it is again in high favor! The milliners are putting a fringe of monkey around sailor hats and the effect is too fearsome to be described at any rate this. is not a millinery article. Monkey muffs are not so bad and a little monkey fur used judiciously on a frock of black chiffon, or even of pink chiffon, is rather effective.

Mosaic Effects For The Evening. Some very beautiful collarettes and capes for evening wear have mosaic effects contrived by inserting one fur in another, in graceful designs. Notable among these is a cape of spotless ermine cut in three points and edged all around with fox. Within the fox border is a border design of moleskin in conventional flower and, leaf pattern, the points of the design running up into the white ermine. Black pony and ermine are combined in similar manner and leopard is set into sealskin in mosaic effect.

An attractive little fur wrap of Russian mouse trimmed with mouffloon is pictured and the muff of matched Russian mouse will appeal to

TE.RRE HAUTE, IND., SUNDAY, OCTOBER 11. 1914.

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the woman searching for something entirely new and "different" in furs. This cape is intended for afternoon wear and its loose sleeves and full cut, with a close band at the hips, give it a dressy and dainty suggestion. The elongated muff with the striped Russian mouse running in transverse directions continues the line of the wrap downward at the front in becoming manner.

The New In Muffs And Neckpieces. Fitch, which was enormously popular last winter, is still high in favor, but most of the new Fitch furs shown this fall are Russian importations. German Fitch is much finer and richer in quality, but of course German pelts are almost unobtainable these days and the Russian Fitch is about the only sort procurable in, any quantity. The vogue of dark brown in suits and frocks will make all the brown-toned furs fashionable but Fitch is effective also with black and with other shades.

The melon muff is the season's high-style fad, but the pillow and rug muff also have their place in favor, and women wh" possess handsome muffs in these shapes will not be likely to have them made over. The striped pelts like chinchilla, Russian mouse and mink, lend themselves especially well to the melon style, and these smart muffs are made also of ermine, moleskin and sealskin. A tailored suit of dark green velvet has a collar of ermine edged with skunk which crosses over the bust and extends downward around the waist to the back, where a cluster of brushes falls in rather an absurd suggestion of a tail. To match the collar there is a huge me^on muff of ermine with a border trimming of skunk at the ends.

Two typical new muff and neckwear sets are illustrated. One set is of Australian o'possum in combination with seal. The neckpiece is in the new cravat, or "tailored" style and the seal buttons on neckpiece and muff enhance this tailored suggestion. The other set, of chinchilla—now a rare and high-priced fur—has a very graceful neckpiece in "semi-tailored" style and a draped muff lined with gray velvet. Inside the velvet lining is a roomy pocket in which small packages and belongings may be carried very conveniently.

For motor wear leopard and raccoon continue to be the favorites, and French civet is used to trim coats ot dark worsted.

OUITE

HAUTE TRIBUNE

The heel and toe step of Uie Maxixe is not beyond youthful acquirement.

still with repose and without fidgeting, and to gain control of their legs, arms, feet and hands so that no drawing room and no assemblage, later on in life, may have any terrors of embarrassment for them.

The child who is a regular attendant at dancing school is seldom awkward or ill-mannered in older years. A respect for the little courtesies, the give and take of politeness which weave together the threads of the social fabric in harmony and smoothness of design, is the first step toward the making of the future finished gentleman or gentlewoman. Poise, gracefulness of carriage, and a gentle courtesy of address are the things John Henry and Mabel Elizabeth go to dancing-school to learn. Incidentally, they may become adepts at one-stepping and hesitating, and may even become proficient in solo dancing to the immeasurable pride of their fond mamma.

It is always a pretty sight to see a child dance—if unconscious joy and not the desire to "show off" is the motif power of the dance. The tog-ged-out little puppet who pirouettes complacently and self-consciously for the applause of grown-ups is rather a pathetic little spectacle—to the lover of the genuine in childhood and when the small dancer attempts to mimic some of the movements and figure contortions of professional dancers whom she has been taken to see, the effect is far more painful than pathetic.

Since the most important feature of dancing school is the cultivation of manners, the very best dancing master procurable should be employed. At a first-rate dancing class the child will not only learn the new steps in the conventional and reserved

as important as the ac

quirement of a knowledge of the three "R's" or the rudiments of music, in the opinion

of uhe fashionable mother, is a thorough training of the child in social amenities at dancing school. It is not vitally necessary that small John Henry and his sister, Mabel Elizabeth, shall become proficient performers of the Fox Trot, Lame Duck, Tango Glide and Hesitation but it is vitally important that they learn to enter and leave a crowded room gracefully, to bow correctly to a hostess, to sit

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way they are danced at refined assemblages, but he will also become accustomed to the manners and usages in vogue at such assemblages —the things a well-bred person, youthful or adult, may and may not do when out in formal company. He will also come into contact with other little folks of the best social standing, and there is no wiser course for the newcomer in a good neighborhood to follow than to send the children at once to the best dancing class in town, even if their A, B, C's are being acquired at the public school.

Special clothes for the afternoon dancing class will of course be required, but these need not cost a great deal of money. Some of the wealthiest little folks dress very simply for the dancing lesson, even when elaborate raiment is worn at holiday parties and other affairs of a festive character. On the other hand, many mothers make a point of togging out their small daughters in party attire for the dancing lesson and the small girl who attends dancing school in her ordinary school frock of dark serge will feel rather out of the picture—and children are keenly sensitive about such matters.

A pretty frock of white embroidery,

Ready for the turn, hands high, heel on the floor and toe pointing upward.

or of lawn and lace with a wide sash, will be correct and appropriate for dancing class if the little girl is under ten years'old. Girls of ten to thirteen may wear frocks of challis, light tinted silk, pongee or silk poplin, smartly made but not over-trimmed. Girls over thirteen should be dressed with even greater simplicity—they may not wear the frills and ribbons with which the baby girl is decked out at any educational session, whether music, French or the hesitation waltz is the study concerned.

Heelless ballet slippers are the best choice for the little girl who will learn to depend on her own supple toes and flexible foot muscles for support in the dance rather than on heels which help to lift her foot from the

MAGAZINE SECTION

Very Ctxic and Ve r» Kew

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floor. Dancers who learn the first rudiments of the Terpsichorean art in high-heeled shoes are never as fairylight and graceful as those who acquire the accomplishment young, in regulation dancing slippers,

The little boy's dancing school cos tume includes his spic and span Sunday suit of dark blue or gun metal serge and a pair of patent leather dancing pumps which he wears with black silk stockings. Some mothers follow the English costume of dressing their small sons in black Eton coat, long trousers, white waistcoat and turnover collar, but this seems rather an affectation in America, where the small boy thus togged out feels miserable ,and justly rebellious when he happens to be the only being present thus arrayed.

Children acquire the one-step easily and It has been a pretty sight, this past summer, to see tots of three or four years swinging down the hotel ballroom in the fascinating one-step —and doing it perfectly, too. The hesitation waltz is more difficult for little feet, but the "lame duck" hesitation has many childish devotees. The tango has been taught successfully to many small people—the tango, that is, in its new, inoffensive version, as graceful and beautiful in its way as the stately minuet. The two little people in the illustrations are doing the Maxixe—fashion'* latest dance craze—and three movements in the dance are pictured. Th« heel and toe-step appeals particularly to children, since it is much tike an ordinary romping step. Another illustration shows the danceis changing from this heel and toe movement tu another phase of the Maxixe. A thiru picture shows the graceful swinging movement in which the outstretched arms rest lingertip-against-fingertip. as the dancers sway to and fro from the waist.

A graceful climax.

Using a warm iron when cutting out clothes will do away with pins and weights on tissue paper patterns. Lay the pattern on the material $nd, press it lightly with the warm- iron. The pattern will then cling to the cloth.

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