Daily Tribune, Terre Haute, Vigo County, 6 September 1914 — Page 20

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FASHIONS

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spit® of the European war we have the advance millinery styles direct from Paris, and 'here are of the very niftiest of them. Although American designers are active and assert that they can give American women just as good styles as the Paris houses, or better, still there are a few women who will insist upon Paris modes. These women must not feel aggrieved if they are furnished with Paris fashions that never were born In Paris.

There will be many attempts made to cater to woman's innate love for foreign Importations, and many little Parisian labels will be sewed into the crowns of hats made in New Tork. If the women do not know the difference the American designer will have proved his point to his own satisfaction at any rate.

However, here are some bona fide Parisian hats, imported before the unfortunate royal assassination which precipitated what may prove to be the most horrible war of history. For chic and style these hats have not been surpassed in many seasons.

Three things have been decided about the autumn hat—it will be small, smart and pertly balanced upon the head. Large hats may make their appearance later, but there is no indication of them

and the woody substance of the various 1

terms of cacti. About the only modern implements that are employed in weaving are the hand cards, wire toothed combs fpr the wool and shears with which to make cuttings. The frames are made of rude poles, with the beams held In place by rawhide ropes

The Indian puts his frames on uprights, usually staked and lashed to trees in front of his hogan, or house. The women do the weaving squatted upon the ground, with legs folded under them. They are close enough to reach to either side or halfway up. When the work has progressed to a height where it is uncomfortable for them to reach they tilt the loom so that they may continue in their original position. The spindle in use is that of a hundred years ago, a stick thrust through the center of a wooden disk. The work is exceedingly slow, an inch or two being a day's work on the better grades.

Most of the "genuine Navajo" blankets that find their way to market are graded as half fancy. They are made from high grade wools, but the dye used is aniline and not the vegetable Unri which marks the genuine blankets. These aniline dyed blankets preserve most of the old patterns and sunbursts of colors, but the weaves are not as durable. The best blankets are made of fine native wool spun to a tension that makes them almost as durable as steel, with dyes that last always. The coarser grades of blankets have but few flecks of colors, being usually white, gray or brown.

The Navajos have long had a high reputation as experts in the use of dyes. In the old days they had a native blue, but nowadays indigo is often substituted. Their blacks are made from roasted ocher mixed with gum from the small pine and later joined to an infusion of sumac leaves and twigs. A red dye is formed from barks and roots of sumac, mixed with black alder bark and Juniper ashes. The yellow dye is made from the boiled tops of a flowering weed reduced with native alum.

The bright red of their blankets Is often produced by interweavings of bayeta or baize cloth, which England has made for years especially for the Spanish trade. The cloth has a long nap. Few blankets have regularly woven borders, these being looked upon as Inartistic. In addition the -Indians dislike having to weave the ends before they are reached.

An imagery that is remarkable is displayed by the Navajo women In their designs. This imagery is largely confined to the color schemes, as nearly everything done is a copy of something that the weavers have seen. The moon, stars and rainbows are familiar objects they most often reproduce. When President Roosevelt was at Al-

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in the early models unless the Georgette sailor at the upper left hand corner of the Illustration is a slight indication.

Each season Georgette brings out a new sailor model which Immediately becomes the fashion. This year the Georgette sailor is soft of crown and curved of brim and has a white coque pompon posed front and rear.

The day of the blocked felt hat is passed—that is, It is passed so fax aa the fashionably gowned woman is concerned. Undoubtedly the shops will show blocked felt hats, but they will be bought by women for general utility purposes. The fashionable hat will be of velvet combined with soft felt, velvet combined with taffeta, velvet trimmed with flowers and feathers.

The next model In the illustration Is built of the fashionable velvet over a buckram fraifie wired Into shape. Burnt ostrich, feathers furnish the unique trimming, combined with a

Hll Hbout tbe Navajo Blanket

7FHE Navajos belong to the Athabascan family, which originally came from Alaska and has always produced Indian weavers. Originally these weavers were restricted In the choice of their material to barks and the woody fibers of trees and plants, but the Spaniards who invaded the southwest following the conquistadors brought sheep with them and made It possible for the Indians to find a splendid substitute for their native cotton

buquerque years ago a squaw was given a copy of the message of congratulation the Commercial club desired to extend to him, and this she wove In well formed English letters into a panel In a Navajo blanket that was presented to him.

The zigzags characteristic of these Indian blankets are not intended to represent lightning. They are simply the squaw's idea of beauty. The lozenge effects are the high spots in Nav-

j0 art, and into the making of these

some brop.d and sometimes alarming combinations and splashes of color are thrown.

The more imaginative of them weave into their color effects rude representations of boTfs and arrows and household implements, stalks of corn and the like. On some of their blankets they reproduce trains, locomotives and similar objects. Formerly It was com-

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band of moire ribbon with a little flat bow in front. The amateur milliner could easily build one of these simple hats at very little expense, although in the shops it commands a good round price.

MAKE SNAPSHOTS OF YOURSELF. "T)ID you ever seriously think that you would give a good deal for the gift to see yourself as others see you? It is almost Impossible to criticise yourself with an open mind, simply because you have a very one sided opinion of yourself, so when you are studying the problem of dressing yourself, arranging your hair, holding yourself upright, improving your figure and all the other personal things that the woman who makes a good appearance usually studies you are working at a disadvantage. It is impossible for you to get a good, all round view of yourself.

You may stand by the hour in front of your mirror—if you have time and yet you will see only certain sides of your many sided self.

Snapshots, if you are fortunate enough to have many of them, of yourself iorm the best means of studying your defects and correcting them.

You who thought you held your figure so erect, with but due regard for

Odd Shaped Centerpiece

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~VTEW centerpieces of embroidered linen come In odd shapes as a variation on the old circular style. Thi? hand embroidered centerpiece is in the trlcorne shape, the pattern being accentuated by the placing ot the flowers.

mon practice for the weavers first to draw their designs In sand, but they depend nowadays upon inspiration. The Navajo artist uses no curves. In the ancient days every' cross, zigzag or square was the embodiment of some prayer to the evil gods, the Navajo idea being that the good gods need not be supplicated. Being good, they will attend to their duties.

In Navajo symbolic dialect each color has a significance, white signifying the east, blue the south, yellow the west and black the north.

the slouching carriage that modern clothes require—aren't you surprised when you see yourself silhouetted in a snapshot against a broad expanse of sky?

UNUSUAL NOTE PAPER.

XpOR the woman who seeks the unusual in note paper there is the double sheet with an inch wide flap turning back from the second sheet over the first, from top to bottom.

On this flap is an initial an inch and a half high and much elongated.

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The Jaunty little hat Illustrated next at the bottom right hand side Is trimmed with coque feathers laid flat upon the crown, while the upstanding burnt ostrich feather gives to the tiny model much dignity.

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T^HE whole subject of the rightful care of the foot Is a large one, but it is only within the scope of this article to speak of the rightful care of the toe nail, a theme not unworthy of study.

The nail of the great toe should be broad, flat and smooth, even as the nail of the thumb. It should not be too flat upon the flesh, nor should it be too curved, for this latter condition tends to become exaggerated, so that the ends of the curve press deeper and deeper Into the flesh.

A slight "half moon" should be visible. and It should be worn long enough to show a slight rim of white above the pink, and the cuticle at Its base should not be dry and harsh, but soft, free of hangnails and rounding in an unbroken curve from one end to the other.

Surely none of these are at all dlfflcult to accomplish. A little care once a week with a pair of curved nail scissors, a pair of cuticle scissors, a file, an emery board, an orange wood stick, with a little bit of cotton to be used under the nail edge, and the work is easily done.

See that the shoes are amply long If you wish to avoid bunions, which can make one as wretched as the toothache and bring more wrinkles to the face in a day than your masseuse can work out In a week.

A tiny bit of pumice will sometimes be found useful in grinding down hardened, calloused cuticle. Care should be taken not to roughen or injure the cuticle under the nail, but all dust should be removed by using a little damp cotton wound about the orange wood stick.

The toe nails should be cut a little square rather than round, the nail of the large toe cut rather shorter In the middle than at the sides. A little bleaching solution, a little healing cream, a little polishing powder, and, presto, the nails which appeared dull and unlovely look perfectly pink and shining and will repay their owner for the time spent on them.

Such nails will not wear holes in silk stockings, as rough, uncared for nails often do.

INITIAL YOUR HANDKERCHIEFS. T)0 you mark your own handkerchiefs? If you have the time it is a wise and dainty thing to do, but why not vary the monotony of white initialing? Indeed, if you wish to be really smart you will do so, for the handkerchiefs used by the ultra fashionables, at least in the mornings and afternoons, are embroidered or Initialed In color. Usually the Initial matches a color in the frock or the hat or some other accessory if the principal part of the costume is white. It is well to have several handkerchiefs embroidered in green, it being a neutral color, so that they can be carried with those frocks for which you have no matching color. Frequently white handkerchiefs have border hems In color and an initial or monogram of the hem color. It is a pretty custom to embroider about the monogram or Initial a little wreath or medallion frame.

MIGHTIEK. THA.JV THE SWO'R'D

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The hat at the top center is a stunning model which bids fair to be one of the season's favorites. White satin is combined with bla.ck velvet, the satin and velvet arranged In saw tooth* fashion upon the crown. A batwing of

TN a cream or a white bedroom most women have the idea that nothing but white, pink or blue covers will do for the dresser, chiffonier and bed. This is a mistake. To have the bedroom covers in white when the room Itself Is enameled in white is to make the room characterless, whereas to put a color Into It at once gives it a personality.

A decorator noted for his artistic taste insists that many of the white enameled rooms which he plans shall have covers of ecru or deep cream. Deep cream Is preferable. The contrast of this rich tone against the white of the room is most effective. Even if the furniture and woodwork be in cream the cream or ecru of the lace blends In with it beautifully and yet does not have the characterless effect of dead white or cream with white covers.

For this purpose nothing" Is better than the imitation fillet squares of lace. These come by the yard, already Joined. They will not be wide enough, however, to make the cover, so that two strips will have to be Joined. The Joining is made ornamental by a piece of cluny or torchon lace of the same shade as the fillet lace. It will take two or three of these fillet strips joined, according to the sizes of the squares. When the strips have been so joined with the lace and an oblong has been formed edge the covers about the edging to match the insertion. To make the bedroom set complete there should be a bedspread and pillowshams or, if one of those hollow roll bolsters is used, a bolster throw for it. Under these lace covers In every instance should be white or cream color foun

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white satin arranged at the left side toward the back gives a chic effect. To the right is a white coque feather turban. Such turbans, built entirely of feathers, both in black and white, are a seasonable novelty which has "caught on" Immensely. The brim in these hats is negligible, but the trimming soars sometimes to the height of a foot or more. It is worn tilted over upon the right ear in a most engaging fashion.

The trimming upon the next hat In the Illustration is not unlike the exquisite maidenhair fern which hides in the wood. But goura feathers conlpose the new aigrets and are here used poised upon the crown of a stovepipe hat built of velvet and satin. The lines of this hat are disposed to be harsh, but are softened by the feathery algret.

This hat shows the new softly shirred crown of black velvet. The brim has a facing of cream velvet, which is wonderfully becoming to the face. The garniture Is a unique arrangement of feathers posed coquettishly upon the front of the brim. The veil which goes with the hat is called a "bobby" velL

For very early fall wear I would recommend the use of taffeta for these

for the Slbite Bedroom

dations. If cream color Is desired a cream batiste or cambric can be used. The lace covers can be simply laid upon these foundations or basted to them.

If sxpense Is no object real fillet and real cluny lace may be used, but If It is necessary to economize you will tod that imitation fillet Joined with imitation cluny lace or torchon in cluny dasign is very effective.

FOR A GUESSING CONT58T. fTHERE are many flower courtships, but here Is one that may be new to you. It was new to the guests at a porch party, where decorations consisted of garden flowers, tJhere nasturtium sandwiches and flower decked salad were served and where the prizes for the various winners In the guessing contests were lovely bunches of flowers from the hostess' garden.

The answers to the questions are all flowers. Here are the questions: What is the maiden's name and the color of her hair? Marigold.

Who is her favorite brother? Sweet William. What does her brother like to do.In winter? Snowball.

At what hour does her brother wake her father? Four o'clock. What does the father administer punishment with Goldenrcd.

What does the brother do then? Balsam. What are her father's name and office in the Presbyterian church? Elderberry.

What is her sister's name and the color of her eyes? Black Eyed Susan. What is her lover's name, and what does he write with? Jonquil.

Crocheted jNoveltiee for the Boudoir

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rpiNY baskets of white crocheted cotton for favors are illustrated here. One is trimmed with silk and lace and holds a powder puff another contains small manicure implements the third is a sewing basket-

draped hats. Velvet may be the mora fashionable material, but milady thesa days is asking for comfort as well aa style, and I submit that a velvet hat 'during the early autumn days, when nature gives vis the exquisite warm Indian summer, Is deoldedly uncomfortable.

Some picturesque modes offer large crowns of velvet, to which are affixed wide, undulating brims of the material which narrow over the face, but broaden considerably at the sidea and extend in pointed fashion over the hair at the back.

Trimmings for these shapes are simple In the extreme. Single flower effects, made of velvet and with their natural size greatly exaggerated, are effectively placed with a bit of foliage in color rather than in the natural greens which one naturally expects to see accompany them.

Ostrich feathers are exceedingly smart trimming effects. Paradise and osprey aigrets occupy the most favorable fashion position, but as ospreys are taboo on this side of the water we shall probably revert to the horsehair imitation and be quite as modish, secure in the desired effect to be obtained, but not guilty at the same time of robbing young birds of their sol* protection.

COLLAR ttMTSHI

It to thought that the lata develop* ment of the tailored turnover cellar made of stiffened cotton*, llimni aa4 pique, will have a most Important fluence upon the creations of teolh wear styles for the next season.

Before extreme warm weather eondfr* tlons made low neck frocks aa Impam* tire necessity there was noticed 4 tendency toward closing the Shagm of the cut of these collars closer the bend of the throat. Alse lata ad* .vices from Paris chronicled the a(H pearanoe In the late spring of old laSM loned stock collars of linen with eaoH tm13ered or plain edged turnovers.

With these stocks there were won! most effectively arranged folds aha bat winged bows of black and oolor*4 silks, which In some Instances encircled the collar, permitting hut tba white turnover to be seen.

Just whether these late editions of spring styles in collars will pop forth In the early autumn as the newest of the new modes in neckwear Is aa la* teresting problem which only time oaij oolve.

They are more than likely to ap* pear, however. Every collar styla movement points toward a narrowing of the heretofore broadly designed ef* fects.

Just whether we shall be torn ha* tween a choice of the narrow, neck encircling, flat lying embroidered collar ^ot over two inches in width, the prototypes of Which were worn by our feminine forbears in the late fifties and sixties or the flaring medlcl collar is a question. A few collars of thla sort are introduced and are now htln£ worn with the newest basque styled frock, which buttons in the front from neck line to hip line and is sashed a la Premet in strangely reminiscent, ta-i miliar fashion. f^r

But, aside from these points of interest, it would appear that neckwear fashions are exerting a rather broad Influence upon the trend of blouse fashions. Already long sleeved blouses, close fitted to a high corseted figure, are adorned with primly starched white hemstitched cuffs, while the neck exhibits a duplicate of pristine freshness in the way of a collar, upstanding and attached to the snug fitting neckband, with not more than an inch of snowy throat displayed.

In compliance with such a vogue It is logical to expect to see jabots, frills and bows appear, but these new styles will be quite different from any heretofore seen.

Scallops, points of Vandyke shapeliness and embattlemented upstanding frills, meant to edge the neekband merely, are among the lists of collar possibilities.

Wired collar effects will continue, but plaited mousseline de soie is among the newer fabrics being used for such styles.

A KITCHEN DEVICE. -/J

A LITTLE brass holder for a ball of cord costs a dollar, and at one side of the holder is a small pair of scissors securely fastened. This would be a great convenience on the desk or on the kitchen shelf.