Democratic Sentinel, Volume 22, Number 22, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 11 June 1898 — JACKETS AND CAPES. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

JACKETS AND CAPES.

ARTISTIC TREATMENT APPARENT IN SUMMER WRAPS. Jacket* that Are Quite Mannish Are Relieved by Some Little Bit of Purely Feminine Adornment—Fashionable - Cape* Are Mostly Trimming. Correctness in Wrap*. Tew York correspondence:

,RTISTIC treatment Is apparent in the shoos’ current showings of 'summer wraps. Art can hardly go much further, for Instance, than In the sort of tailor jacket that presents a suggestion of mannish trigness, and yet yields graciously to girlish outline and feminine fancy. What could be more misleading or more satls-

factory than the first Jacket of to-day’s pictures? It was of unlined satin faced cloth, with severe high collar and Jaunty revere to conciliate the manly taste. But a lot of dainty little pleats were set at the pinch of the waist to draw the coat Into a perfect curve with the tapering figure. After that the sleeves daintily puckered at the shoulders, and

k little show of dark red braiding came as another relief to what might have been “horridly gentlemanly." As sketched, this Jacket was in the Intense and stylish shade now called Yale blue, hut much the same thing may be had in a variety of colors. The Jacket made to show a gentlemanly display of linen and a stunning waistcoat is one of the most swagger designs. Wearing it is to suggest that you can afford a change and so are able to have a second Jacket that will fasten up snugly to the throat if necessary. One of this type Is displayed at the left In the second Illustration. It was of beige cloth, self-trimmed with bias folds, and had revere, collar and waistcoat of white pique. It Is an entirely new Idea, this supplying the street Jacket with revere of pique or corded silk In white.- The effect Is dressy, and when wash pique Is chosen It can be freshened as often as necessary without great trouble. Opposite this model In the same picture Is a standby, the simple Jacket, moderately gentlemanly in design and made to wear slightly open and display the gown and neck arrangement worn beneath. This year It appears In solid colors. Orange brown was the color of this one, and is a favorite shade. As a rule such a jacket Is enlivened with a little braiding and possibly something In the way of a fancy clasp at the one fastening. In this Instance the braiding was a darker brown than the goods, and the clasp was gilt. The return of capes to stylishness Is signalized by a high degree of elabo-

rateness, and tailor capes are only occasional. Some of those offered are designed as accessories to traveling rigs, and it is one of these that holds the center of this picture. It was of dark gray ladies* cloth, was lined with the same shade of taffeta and was trimmed with rows of black satin ribbon. This type of cape is made just full enough to hang easily from, the shoulders with no pleating above the bust line. It fastens with an under flap In front, may pe made of double-faced material, and rows of braid or lines of small tucks may serve as trimming. The typical dressy cape for summer is after the order of those put in today’s second large picture. In It flufflness and airiness or highly wrought effects, or all three, are at a premium, and the new fancy capes are quite as elaborate as they were when all women were last using capes as winter wraps. The very latest thing in these garments Is the drop cape. This comes usually a little short of the waist, and is really a double cape, the under one being silk upon which is laid a pair of fluffy pet or chiffon flounces one above the other. The silken portion of the eape shows in yoke-shape about the

neck. At the top of the silk collar there is an upbuilding of frills to match the flounces. The right-hand one of the pictured three capes was orange silk covered with black lace and finished with two black net ruffles. The upper of these two ruffles had a beading of orange ribbons ornamented with ribbon rosettes. Simple as the general scheme of this garment is, the dressiest effects are produced by It Next to the cape just described is shown one that is almost as new and Just as pretty. Its drop or cape was black taffeta, and over this was a net cape on which were set three'frills of grenadine, each frill closely pleated and finished at the edge with a puffing of chiffon. The edge of the drop cape was finished in the same way. The collar was a frill set up about the neck and spreading prettily to admit graded frills of chiffon-topped silk. The effect of this Is better In black than in bright color. Still another modification of the drop cape is made of all-over lace on silk, usually of a contrasting color. The lace may or may not be tacked down to the under cape, but In either case a fluting of silk, chiffon or lace finishes the under cape. One of this type completes the cape group. It was watermelon pink silk covered with heavy black lace that was not tacked down. Hem, fronts and collar were edged with black chiffon fluting. The richest lace may be used for the upper cape, and Imported capes of this kind show that the cape has been woven In one piece. Still, skillful fingers can match the patterns In piece lace with very good results. A pretty variation

is afforded by laying over the lace when it is not of the very heavy variety an applique design of silk to match the under cape, a spray of rosea, a sweeping vine or something of the sort. As the display of the lace design is a feature of such a cape It Is as a rule made little longer than the other sorts of capes, dipping just to the waist line, in front and lifting a little at the sides. The drop cape should set easily full, but the over cape, when of the variety just described, should set qultt smooth. Copyright, 1898.

SUMMER OUTSIDES WITH LITTLE OF ORNAMENTATION.

CAPES THAT ARE ALMOST ALL TRIMMING.