Democratic Sentinel, Volume 22, Number 18, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 May 1898 — WAISTS FOR SPRING. Some Bon Mots of Wit. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WAISTS FOR SPRING.

Some Bon Mots of Wit.

BLOUSE EFFECT STILL HERE, BUT IN NEW FORMS The Most Recent Fashionable Bodices —New and Inexpensive Materials for Summer Wear—Capes Are More Attractive than Coats. Fashionable Vernal Attire. New York correspondence:

HAEACT ERIS- / tics of the blouse S linger In fashiona- \ I ble bodices, although such blousing has been stylffl ish for so long a f I time. But at this * \ late day it Is highly \\ desirable that the V\ blouse arrangement take either a l J new or a recently \ I adopted form, for A I the original cuts of U I it are quite out, i\\ I and their imraediIH I ate predecessors are already hopeion. Happily the entirely

safe sorts are not a few, and among the newest of them an especially attractive one is in bib effect. Its blousing is very slight, no more than results from gathering in at the round belt. The blouse portion of the bodice is cut low under the arms, and rises back and front, narrowing by gracefully graded points towards the top, which comes just where the top of the bib to a nice apron would come. The edges are finished with tastefully arranged braid, and the rest of the bodice is of silk in color contrasting with blouse, skirt and sleeves. Any blouse tends to give length and slenderness to the figure, and this design most happily suggests both. A sow perpendicular lines

of braiding on the skirt complete the result. The example of this dainty design that is presented here was of golden "brown cashmere, the top of the bodice "being a much darker brown silk. Brown silk braid was used, and the brown of the silk belt matched that of the silk :ln the bodice. Such a gown may be made of any of the popular canvases, in which case it must be lined throughout with silk to match the upper portion of the bodice. The belt must, match the yoke, and may be finished with isash ends at the back. It is satisfying to notice that none of these very latest models shows an exaggeratedly small sleeve. The chiffon bodice not only appeai-s in a perfect frenzy of puffs, frills and shirring, but is pretty under the simplest treatment. Ombre or shaded chiffon, which is offered this season as one of the prettiest novelties, lends Itself charmingly to simple use. Ombre chiffon comes with color deepening from one selvage to the other, and in making the color is arranged to suit your taste, the deeper shading usually ■coming at the front, though sometimes the darkening is from the belt up. A double frill at the sleeve is made of the

dark and the light*and the stock scarf shades prettily towards the ends. Such a bodice, whether worn with skirt to match or not, is dainty and cool for summer, aud suitable right now for house wear. There is a variety to choose from, but the one at the left In this large picture was extremely tasteful. It was scarlet and green chiffon over scarlet taffeta, with scarlet taffeta belt and epaulettes. The current favor for yeltows, particularly orange shades, Is in these waists, and the ■stylish but unbecoming blues are also employedJ but should be discarded for something less trying unless you are sure that your complexion will stand it. Another wrinkle turned by the shift of styles in summer dressing is in the economical woman’s favor. For years summer materials have been dainty and Inexpensive, but there was never such a lot of adorable madras, barred muslins and lace effects as this season. Madras Is shown cross-barred with ribbon stripes that is so pretty that to see it is to make up your mind that you cannot get through the summer without—one? five at least, so many and §9 charming are the effects of color*

stripes any other, but linen color barred with cerise, green, pale blue or yellow is a delight. Madras is heavy enough so that there need be no lining. Dainty embroidered edges come In colors to match the material, and gowns are made in all sorts of quaint effects, with little old fashioned draped collars and bands of ribbon to match the stripe. For such gowns the blouse bodice prevails. It Is made like the one pictured here, with only the under-arm seam, a draw ribbon being set in at the back. This ribbon is loose the rest of Its length, and ties about the waist, draw-

ing it Into shape, all of which facilitates washing. Linen color madras brightly barred Is so pretty that a waist of that material was chosen by the artist, the striping being pale blue. The collar was finished with a rutile of linen embroidery, and next to this linen insertion, light blue ribbon banding it

and forming loops at the shoulders. Even barred muslin in spick-and-span white is made up in this way and trimmed with hnmburg edge. Such a gown white and crisp from the tub offers a dainty contrast to the soft grace of a chiffon or silk muslin dress, and she is a wise as well as a lucky girl who includes both in her summer wardrobe. Since blouse bodices hold their own in the summer and spring fashions, spring wraps have been conformed to the requirements of the dress to be beneath, and with very attractive results. The artist presents in her next sketch a very pretty coat* model that fastened at one side, the whole front being cut in panel fashion and allowed to hang straight and loose outside the belt, which held do\vn back and sides to a snug fit. Brown broadcloth was the material, brown braided silk galloon trimmed it, and brown satin lined it. Capes are on the whole more attractive than coats, and there are good reasons for thinking them a better investment. Capes were worn but very little last winter, and this spring’s Jackets include few novelties, from which it is but natural to guess that capes will be all the go next winter. The spring crop is as fluffy as ever, though usually some arrangement of yoke or shoulder bands takes away any bunchy effect about the shoulders. To be properly becoming there should be absolute smoothness between the fluff and bunch of the frilling at the neck, and the fluttering fullness of the shoulder frills. Taffeta is the usual foundation, though some of the daintiest are made on net. The one shown here was black silk muslin over black taffeta, for which pale gray, pale green or orange could be substituted. Black satin and chiffon ruches trimmed it. Copyright, 1898.

When Brummell made his midnight flitting to Boulogne at the suit of the Jews, Lord Alvanley remarked complacently: “Brummell has done quite right to be off; it was Solomon’s judgment.” Alvanley gave many proofs of generosity to acquaintances in distress. One of those he had assisted was the well-known Jack Talbot, a reckless prodigal, who had repeatedly borrowed of him. Wlten Talbot was beggared and lying on his deathbed Alvanley met his doctor and inquired about the Invalid. The answer was: “My lord, I fear he is in a bad way. I had to use the lancet.” “You should have tapped him, doctor,’ *said Alvanley, coolly. “I fear he lias more claret than blood In his veins.” That reminds one of Talleyrand’s remark on his old friend Montxond, who once declared that he was suffering the torments of the damned: “What, already?” More excusable was Alvanley’s expostulation when he had been persuaded to dine with the eccentric millionaire, Neeld, in his new mansion in Grosvenor Square. The host, with the vulgarity of a nouveau riche, was expatiating on the sumptuous decorations of the apartment, aud, in the words of Milton, “letting diuner cool.” “I don’t care what' your gilding cost,” said Alvanley bluntly, “but I am most anxious to make a trial of your carving, for I am famished.”

The discoverers of quinine and strychnine, Pelletier and Gacenton, are to have a monument erected to them in Paris. Pharmacists in every part of the world are invited to subscribe. The monument will take the form of two statues, to be erected In front of tlioHlgh School of Pharmacy, Paris. Not education, but character, Is man’s greatest need and man's greatest safeguard.—Speuser,

lessly common.

FLUFFY WITHOUT SACRIFICE OF HEIGHT.

NOVELTIES IN WAISTS FOR THE SUMMER GIRL.

PLANNED TO COVER A BLOUSE BODICE.