Democratic Sentinel, Volume 20, Number 34, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 28 August 1896 — FASHIONS FOR FALL. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FASHIONS FOR FALL.

POINTERS ON AUTUMN MODES PRESENT THEMSELVES Aft. Balloon Sleevea Have Collapsed and the Skin Tight Affairs Will Soon He Introduced-Enormous Pipe Folds in Skirts Also Show Decadence. Styles of the Season. New York correspondence:

OINTERS on the autumn styles are slowly presenting themselves, but presentation and accept ance are sluggish, as.if,this month’s heat had affected the progress of. the new modes. The great point of sleeves is settled, or it might be more consistent to say that the; protuberance has set. tied. Small sleeves

with just a little elaboration at the shoulder-are to constitute the first startling change, and when our eyes become accustomed to them, skiu tight affairs from wrist to shoulder will be introduced. Then the poor woman with long, bony arms will wish herself back in last.year. This is the program laid out;jibat is plain to see, but it will take much longer to effect it than to explain It, just bow no one can now tell. For the present and the near future the woman that would prefer to hide her nnattraet'.ve outlines may adopt the sleeves that beet disguise defects. By so doing she may not be in the advance ranks of fashion's devotees, but she ll be safely stylish. She may. too, if she wishes to, buoy herself up with the hope that there will be some break in this program, but though its fulfillment may be slow, indications now are that it will be sure. Women overdid and over-inflated their sleeves when they had them big. and even prettiest when the shape of the arm was hidden, except about the lower part. These women coul l always show their arms iu evening and negligee dress, and she whose arms were awkward could conceal them entirely if she wished. But fashion is never kind to every one at once. It is always wise for her who has defects to hide to take a middle course,

raihor than to try to be in advance, so ‘■he may safely put on her fall bodice sleeves like those shown in the first picture, leaving for her more, fortunate sisters the models that the second and third illustrations present. The novel cut of the jacket bodice will be proof enough of the garment’s newness, and turtlier innovations might make the whole too startling for quiet taste. Suede colored cloth was the fabric of this dress, the being plain and the ijacket slashed up to the bust. The overhanging tabs were held to-the sides by small chains that fastened to two I’juttons. Beneath.the loose fronts was a fitted white satin vest, the revers were also of white satin, and together with the edges of the jacket were bordered with hair galloon. A pleriierl white satin frill surmounted the cloth collar. It needs a well formed arm to make the second pictured dress presentable, amL/tliese sleeves are so great a departure from summer styles that it seems as if they would mark the limit of ehange for a good while. This bodice ViAs sketched in changeable blue and green silk embroidered with fine black chenille. The right side of the jacket buttoned over, the uper part turned over into a rever and the edge was bordered with a gathered silk ruffle, a narrower ruffle trimming the rever. The latter and the stock collar were of black velvet, but belt and draped sasli, as well as the sleeves, were from the silk. A skirt of royal blue mohair was worn with this bodiee. In the third model shown the sleeves wrinkled from wrist to half way from elbow to shoulder, ending in puffs that seemed tiny by comparison with what we have recently had. Thin figured

blue silk was the material, the skirt having a silk panel of accordion-pleat-ed plain blue silk. In the bodice the sleeves, vest, collar and wide girdle were of the plain material, but the body was from the figured goods. A

narrow frilling finished the stock collar, and wider frills ornamented the wrists. While the pnffs of sleeves are collapsing the stiffness will gradually go out of skirts, and women may reasonably hope that we will eventually arrive at something like the soft bell skirt, the roost graceful skirt into which women ever put themselves. Certain it is that house gowns will have a little train, and will be long all aronutj. with the hips fitting close. Snd though the skirt will spread toward the fiAn it will not flute or crackle. The enormous pipe-folds of the fast t#o seasons will hardly be carried through this season, though a.t .are acceptable enough. 'Tyva- suitable ’types for the period between summer and early winter are displayed in the last two pictures. This period is one in which the new styles will develop fuUy, or at least point along which the change is to come, and until one stage or the other is reached those womep whose outlay for dress is moderate will

do well to watch and wait, so far, anyway, as the cutting of new goods goes. This first skirt is of brown mohplj: and is embroidered at the hem with darkbrown soutache in a pretty scroll design. The bodice first books in the center and then a white silk vest, which is shirred three times with a narrow head, laps over. The body of the waist is entirely covered with soutache and the large collar, the wired basque and the ornaments on the stock collar are white laco. Lace ruffles <sge tpe sleeves, which are eqjproiderod. at the wrists to bnrmouize with the remainder. dNib In the final picture n skirt Is shown that was of peach colored silk, orna mented with an elaborate 6mbroldery done in cream and different shades of green silk. The jacket bodice had a short basque edged with n narrow linen insertion, and the large collar, whose points formed levers reaching to the waist, was of ecru open work linen. A large puffing of chiffon finished the neck, and ruffles of the same were put at the wrists. Both these dresses are well suited to the mid-season, and even though November finds us confronted uy many positive changes of styles, either of them can be renewed at little expense or trouble. It is at about this time that the summer girl begins to take stock of her summer watdrobe. with a view to its future possibilities. Perhaps two of her gowns will do to put away just as they are for next year’s use. In tb.it case the sleeve protectors are taken out, aud all crumples are smoothed before the dress is laid away. If it be a wash dress and is soiled, then washing is done before putlog away, but no starching. Tpfe gtfwn is pressed, that

the “rough dry”''wrinkles may not set aud spoil the goods, but no starch is allowed. Some of the summer dresses are not fit to hold over and will be of no use during the winter. Rip up such; they are not fit to give away if they are not fit to keep, for it is bad taste to bestow faded and drazzled finery on poor folk 1 . Ribbons, silk lining, a breadth or ~sp of the gown itself, the accessories, a few yards of such chiffon as is uacrusbed, an artificial flower or so, buttons, hooks and eyes, linings—tlfcrif is sure'to be something from the drtis that is worth keeping. AH the rest burn Up." It' is a .mistnk&fo keep soiled or tuipbled pieces, but'the pieces that are worth keeping wMl£ help’ lmtoonse-* ly in the completion aiid planning of yorit nest summer wardrobe?’ If you have is lined stiffly it will be best the stiffening oqj; bjefbre is tikpl&to ®o put of the lining by next season; again, there is haraly a chance that stiff skirts will be prettynext summer; and in any ease the sharp folds of the stiff interflhin'g She likely to cut or bruise the outer mateiiht during protracted folding. Folks whq have two houses often leave summer clothes, shawls, and parasols, etc., in a storeroom in the summer bouse. There is likely to be more room there than in city quarters, and you will, of course, make at least one visit to the summer place before the next year. Copyright, 180 C. I . "‘Men who have seen a good deal of life don’t always end by choosing their wives well."—George Eliot.

FINE ARMS NEEDED FOR SUCH SLEEVES.

PUFFS THAT HAVE COLLAPSED.

A MID-SEASON SKIRT.

A SHOWILY EMBROIDERER SKIRT.