Democratic Sentinel, Volume 20, Number 24, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 19 June 1896 — GOSSIP FOR THE FAIR SEI [ARTICLE]

GOSSIP FOR THE FAIR SEI

ITEMS OF INTEREST ON THE FASHIONS. Pads for Sloovos—Woman Licensed as First Mats—Ladies and Lap-Dogs— Points on Being PhotographedPADS FOR SLEEVES Whatever you do, don’t wear wired pads in your sleeves; it is no longer etylish for the sleeves to go straight out from the shoulders. Put pleating of haircloth in the armholes. WOMAN LICENSED AS FIRST MATE. Mrs. B. F. Young has passed the examination required by the United States government for a first mate’s license. She is the only woman with this distinction. She is thirty-nine ybars old, and has been with her husband on the Ohio and its tributaries for twenty-one years. She is a Kentucky woman. LADIES AND LAP-DOGS. Why do ladies carry or lead lap-dogs in the street? A lady in the street, defending her poodle against the annoyance of other canines, kicking out her foot at the Intruders, striking at them with her parasol, and snatching her muddy-pawed favorite up into her arms for safe-keeping, is not an agreeable sight. We had much rather see her leading a little child by the hand, if she wants a companion or plaything. However, if a thing is “the fashion” we suppose some people will consider It all right; but we are old-fashioned, and cannot get sufficiently used to this new-fangled feminine diversion to look upon it with any degree of complacency.

POINTS ON BEING PHOTOGRAPHED, These points on being photographed will be seasonable for the “girl graduates.” A feather boa or lace fichu has a wonderfully softening effect on the features. It is unwise to wear a new dress. It always falls in awkward folds. Generally speaking, the head and shoulders make a far prettier picture than a full-length portrait. Unless there is any urgent need for it, it is a great mistake to be photographed if you are either out of health or in low spirits. A veil imparts a patchy appearance to the face; also, that gloves make the hands appear much larger than they are in reality. Above all, if you want your sun-pict-ure to have a natural expression, you must forget where you are. BRIDES DID NOT ALWAYS WEAR W’HITE. The months of May and June are known throughout the world as those in which more marriages take place than in' any others. It is interesting, therefore, to note that the choice of white for wedding dresses is comparatively a modern fashion. The Roman brides wore yellow, and In most Eastern countries pink is the bridal color. During the Middle Ages and the Renaissance brides wore crimson,and most of our Plantaganet and Tudor queens were married in this vivid hue, which Is still popular in parts of Brittany, where the bride is usually dressed in crimson brocade. It was Mary Stuart who first changed the color of bridal garments. At her marriage with Francis I. of France, in 1558—which took place not before the altar but before the great door of Notre Dame—she was gowned In white brocade, with a train of paleblue Persian velvet six yards in length. This innovation caused quite a stir in the fashionable world of that time. It was not, however, until quite the end of the Seventeenth century that pure white—the colors hitherto worn by royal French widows—became popular for bridal garments in this country. COLORED COMBINATIONS FOR THE SEASON. The colors most used in combination this season are pink with green and heliotrope, green with purple, deep purple with ragged sailor blue, fawn with red, pale reseda, and yellow. Now, fashionable as such color-blendings are, they prove anything but becoming or attractive to behold, especially on women of sallow complexion, and these seem most apt to select them, or else it is the disastrous effect of the trying mixture on the majority of faces. It must at least be remembered that those who select materials aggressive in themselves, so to speak, to avoid tawdriness and a crude result, must take extra pains in their trimming and ornaments. Our eyes should never be pleased at the expense of our looks, and toilets should be chosen which will, Instead of obscuring the wearer, bring out the best features of figure, hair and complexion. Many “neutral” women can wear most becomingly cream serge or soft white flannel, neither need they eschew pale tints of fawn, silver blue, brown, beige, reseda, and the like, but they must chose with discretion. The depth of tone that is favorable to one woman may prove unbecoming to a sister between whose complexion and her own the difference is but slight. A good-sized piece of material and its trimming placed near the face is a better method of deciding than the advice of a friend. No woman ts so dense as not to see if the color and garniture combined prove complimentary or the reverse. ADVANCE OF WOMEN. In 1890 there were in the United States 4,445 women doctors, against 527 in 1870. Three hundred and thirty-seven women dentists, against twenty-four. Two hundred and forty women lawyers, against five. One thousand two hundred and thir-ty-five women preachers, against sixtyseven. One hundred and eighty women land surveyors, and engineers, against none at all in 1870.

Twenty-five women against one. Eleven thousand women aculptora and painters, against 412. Three thousand women writers, against 150. Eight hundred and eighty-five women journalists, against thirty-five. Thirty-four thousand five hundred and eighteen womenmusicians, against 5,735, Three thousand nine hundred and forty-nine actresses, against 082. Twenty-one thousand one hundred and eighty-five shorthand writers, against seven. Sixty-four thousand and forty-eight secretaries and clerks, againgt 8,016. Twenty-seven thousand seven hundred and seventy-seven women bookkeepers, against none in 1870. FOR MISS GADABOUT. Sumer tours are in progress, and naturally, suitable outfits are in consideration. The old custom of saving for the traveling expedition the halfwornout gown and b&t has quite passed away, and we now see the traveler gowned quite as jauntily for the Journey as for the street. And why not? People who can afford to travel for the mere pleasure surely can afford the best service the train or boat affords; and, such being the case, there is no more fear of injuring the costume than if la one's own parlor; and then, too, shut up, as travelers are, for a long time with fellow travelers, it is well to be so gowned as to be a pleasant companion, and not a guy In a frumpy gown. The London tailors are unquestionably the best authorities on traveling outfits, and from them are sent a variety of smart designs. One extremely handsome model is made up in a soft Scotch mixture of green and tan color. The nine-gored Bklrt flares smartly, and Is decorated along the front breadth by an elaborate design of appliqued brown velvet, Btitched on with gold thread. The bodice is short and fitted to the figure with a smart, full coat back. An appliqued design in velvet forms a vest, while along the edge of the jacket extends a narrow gimp of black jet. The sleeves are pronouncedly small, and cut in the regular coat-sleeve fashion, with but little fulluess at the top. With this smart gown is worn a bit of a hat with an oval crown made of alternate white and brown satin braid. Across the front is a drapery of golden brewn chiffon and yellow lace with wide loops to broaden the face effect. A single black plume elevates itself at the side.

FASHION NOTES. Black and white effects in trimmings are very modish. Some of the new buttons would look well inra cabinet. Feather boas were never more the rage than at present. The new all-over cloth of gold and linen designs are charming. You can feel quite well gowned if there is a touch of linen in your get up. A string of imitation pearls are the only style of mock jewelry permissible. A Parisian costume much admired is of heliotrope crepe de chine and Valenciennes, wlfh a narrow ruche. All shades of ecru and brown from the palest cream color to coffee Bhades are among the popular tints of the season. Paradise plumes in white, black and green are the favorite hat garnitues for any woman, be she young or be she mature. White sieves for evening are almost universally of elbow length; those designed for stret wear reach the waist, if not to the knuckles. Yellow lace is used in enormous quantities, and almost every dress for summer wear has some yards of this universally popular material. White muslin of the softest sort is much used in combination with entredeux and French fabric, which is declared an Improvement on the familiar hop-sacking. Neither old age nor middle-age is recognized in matters of dress. Bright green straw Is considered a correct bonnet for any woman, be she young or be she mature. A very pretty neck ruchtng Is made of plaited lace edging slightly stffened and set on a very narrow band in three or four rows. A Dresden ribbon bow front and back is tbe finish. Among the novelties in trimming are velvet ribbons in floral pattern. These have the design in bright and deep colors on dark backgrounds. These ribbons are used as dress trimmings. A novel bodice is of white gauze lace. I'he front is made entirely of lace over silk of a deeper shade than the gown proper, and each se&m shows an application of Valenciennes combined with chenille embroidery. Shoulder capes of lace flouncing or very thin material are much liked. There has been practically no interval between spring and summer, and from thick wraps women have found themselves compelled to adopt these semitransparent trifles. Grass linen is the fancy of the hour. This material is used as a basis for a great variety of decoration. Some of the new patterns are embroidered in metal, others have satin stripes, others have tiny figures in colors, either in silk or metal, or a mixture of the two.