Democratic Sentinel, Volume 20, Number 20, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 22 May 1896 — GOWNS AND GOWNING [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GOWNS AND GOWNING

WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION TO WHAT THEY WEAR. Brief Glance* at Fancies Feminine, Frlvelona, Mayhap, and Tat Offered in the Hope that the Reading Prova Keatfnl to Wearied Womankind. Geaalp from Gay Gotham. New York correspondence:

OW that jacket 1 ■ bodices of the sort w f this initial shows , A I are very abundant women are beginning to confess that such garments utizJ' have not filled the measure of success \Y—and imperative correctness prepared lyf.Jf'. for them. This one \VVp was made of rich tyv figured silk, omaA y\ men ted with showy , y v. buttons and white satin revers, and was worn over a

white satin vest covered with white chiffon. Mentioning so many particulars is as much as saying that the bodice was a typical fashionable one. Such are much worn, and they are the “latest,” but each year it becomes more and more apparent that “the latest” Is no longer accepted as it used to be. The round waist with loose front is too generally becoming, It too well sets off a slender waist and nice hips, it brings harmony to the curve of the figure in front to the average woman, too successfully to be discarded. Coats are not becoming as a change from the loose front, tight back, round waist garment. It takes rather a slender and a tall woman to look really well In a coat, and a plump woman Is a sight! More than that, she knows it. The result is that in spite of the strictures of the fashion dictators and the allurements of the fashion makers women go right on having gcfwns made of the new stuffs, but out to pass at the bodice, under

the belt, and to follow, more or less, ,bag lines in front A brand-new reception dress that shows a somewhat daring independence of cast-iron rules on the part of the designer Is the artist's next contribution, and a glance at it is enough to convince of its richness. It was sketched in parma violet satin, the bodice being pointed back and front and having a wide vest of white silk veiled with spangled chiffon. The extraordinary sleeves were of chiffon-cov-ered silk for the lower part and of the dress goods for the cuffs. Lace jabots appeared beside the vest, and lace frills ornamented the collar. These sleeves had an odd look, of course, but they did not seem at all out of keeping with the rest of the costume, which may or may not mean that a change to tight sleeves will soon come easily. A long train was supplied to this skirt, and in front there were panels of white silk covered with jewelled black tulle, and finished with large bows of violet satin ribbon. This made the skirt but little less daring than the sleeves, for striped stuffs are the fancy now for dressy skirts. An example of this was a skirt of white with green stripes, the white being sprinkled with carnations, made with all the stripes spreading from the belt. The skirt was lined with carnations, and the bodice was white with green satin sleeves and a belt to the bust line of carnation. Very young girls should hardly plan this sort of contrast for themselves, but for a dashing young matron or for the girl who rather makes a point of not being

“Just out,” the result is at once stylish and distinctive. It is a long step from such gowns to dresses of linen, but the linen is highly seasonable and it is possible to make the inexpensive qualities up into dressy form. An excellent model of this sort appears in the third of these pictures, an exceedingly jaunty dress, yet one that the home dressmaker can manage without difficulty. The skirt is entirely plain, but the stuff for the bodice is told In fine knife pleats all around,

which must be tacked down to keep them in place. The garniture consists of bands of dotted linen and narrow lace sewed together to give bretelles, sleeve caps, collar, belt and slashed basque, the last named being linen with red dimity. No gown is daintier and prettier and more economic than the sheer washable material over an underdress of a different color. These are qvftte in order for young folk, and those not so young. The under material need not be of silk, though it is nice If you can afford It, and in case the over material chosen be very gauzy or all open work, then the other must be silk. A pair of under slips, the skirt made full and swirly, and the bodice with yoke that la adjustable, with moderate puffs low on the shoulders and with adjustable fore sleeve, will serve for any number

of over gowns. A white under sl'p, and one of your favorite color, cerise, green or turquoise, will take any number of over gowns of different colors. The cerise Is charming In effect under grass linen In natural color or under white; the white will, of course, go under any color. The usual style for the overgown now so much worn over a slip of contrasting color lsra skirt full and much beruflied. which Is finished at the belt with a wide folded ribbon or with A very narrow leather band. The bodies is usually round, disappearing under the skirt. This Is not new, but It Insists on being becoming, pretty and easy to make, aud that means that It will continue to be In favor at least throughout this season. The sleeves of the overgown are generous In puffery, and any amount of elaboration in the way of needlework and applique may be added. Another wash dress is pictured by the next sketch, and it shows a pretty development of the returning surplice styles. The material here is light blue dimity, but stuff and hue are matters of choice. Two bands of the goods cross over in front in the manner indicated, commencing at the side seams and ending in points on the shoulders where each band fastens beneath a rosette of light blue ribbon. A narrow embroidery finishes the edges. Ribbon gives belt and collar, and the sleeves show a garniture of embroidery and rosettes that harmonize with the finish of the crossed fronts.

In the concluding picture a gown of pistache colored serge is copied. Its skirt is trimmed at the left side with double rows of steel buttons, with loops of the same color braid. The jacket bodice is cut away in front, lias a

full ripple basque in back, and in tbs waist and on the basque, sleeves and revers has the button and loop garniture. A deep sailor collar is formed in back of the revers, and beneath all may be worn any desired style of shirt waist These are to be had in great variety and there are not a few new sorts. Some of those that are in really good taste are of bandana colored and plain lawn made with stiffened collars and cuffs of the same. Again other very dainty waists are of gauze, with a pretty figure, and are finished at neck and wrists with stiffened ribbon collar. Almost all shirt waists are made with adjustable collars and that makes the poor girl that lias trouble with her collar button anyhow all the unhappier. This poor creature might as well give up at once, for what a collar cannot do in the way of getting itself upside down, of coming loose first at the back and then at the front 1$ not yet known. You cau get both efids secured in front and ‘then find that the back stud has given way, you can get one side fastened and the back can give way, while you fasten the back away goes the one secured front, and while you hunt about for another stud the collar turns around and upside down on that stud at the back, so that when you try to attach it to the new stud in front It appears to have no buttonholes, and not to be a collar anyhow, but some kind of ornate curse. Still girls try to do It Collars are higher than ever, too, so that the average girl gets a crease cut In her chin just from trying to eat, to say nothing of attempting to talk. But when all is said, nothing Is more becoming to a pretty face or gentle to a plain one than a stiff, ship-shape collar, with a harmonious tie. No one need know how much you suffered in getting securely into both. * Copyright, 1890.

OF THE ADVANCED CLASS.

A JAUNTY MODEL FOR LINENS.

A NEW SURPLICE FRONT.

A NEW CUT FOR THE SERGE DRESS.