Democratic Sentinel, Volume 19, Number 39, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 4 October 1895 — GOWNS AND GOWNING [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GOWNS AND GOWNING

WOMEN GIVE MUOH ATTENTION TO WHAT THEY WEAR. Brief Glances at Fancies Feminine, Frlrolona, Mayhap, and Tat Offered in the Hope that the Reading Prove Reetfal to Wearied Womankind. Ooaatp from Gay Gotham.

shopping Is a Joy after the sum--Ime r’ s vacation from examining I and purchasing. How anyone could have almost faltered at coming back to town just . because the trees V were turning Is a \\ mystery directly one Is actually back in town, for

the shop windows are a heap more exciting than the trees were, and every bit as brilliant In color and variety. Besides, the goods and garments that go to make up the town’s signs of autumn aire purchasable, and If the returning one hasn’t money to spend it’s even then a delight to just go and look. The stpres are ablaze with fall stuffs and winter goods., and the women who stand and look, or who pass, are almost as brilliant as the windows. The whole display is quite enough to dissipate the last bit of discontent over returning again to the urban noise, dust and bother. Gapes are abundant in the stores, and are in almost endless variety. JTor folks who seek “confections” rather than garments or costumes, there are very dainty Imported capes and shoulder affairs, all of which have a big, soft ruche about the throat, so that is settled, and once again It Is proved that the woman of to-day is not to be bullied Into giving up a really becoming style. Just consider how many years ago It Is that feather boas came In. and that ever

since we have had something of the sort for all seasons. With almost all of these dressy, fancy capes a hat comes en suite. An adorable affair is deep red moire velvet, and all over It Is thickly laid filmy lace, for lace is still to be worn for winter and fall. The lace Is black, great revers of the velvet turn back from an Inserted point In front, and over the revers are stretched the points of an old-fashioned collar. The hat to go with this hns a wide brim of pleated lace stretched over a wire frame, at the edge of which is laid a band of sable. The gathered tam-o’-shanter crown Is deep red velvet like the cape, and about the crown Is tied a band of wide, stiff black satin ribbon, In the knot of which are caught five great nodding black plumes. That Is all, but “this season” just sticks out all over it Capes of smooth cloth, cut round and with the upper edge apparently turned down to form the wide rodttd collar, are worn well apart in front, the edges of the collar being held by a slip chain, by which the cape can also be drawn close, when the turn back collar will rise In amazing proportions about the face and back of the head. This is a style of garment that Is well Invested In Just now, for probable usefulness Is In view for 1t well Into the winter. Today’s first picture presents another type of the round cape, and the simple garment was very pretty as sketched in steel gray cloth lined with changeable silk. The only trimming consisted of bands of woolen braid, which edged the very full bottom and gave the material for the strap that Is placed at the bust and that serves as fastening. The strap Is ornamented with clothcovered buttons, and the high medicl collar remains plain. The latter assures sufficient protection for the throat, but for severe weather this cut of cape Is about as cheerless a garment for Its

wearer as could well be designed, so It cannot be said to be serviceable for both autumn and winter. For planners In economy the cape In the next picture has the same lack as the one just described; that Is, November should see It laid aside for something warmer. But it is a very stylish garment, and part of a costume that possesses a considerable degree of novelty. Cape and skirt are both of chestnut brown mohair, the former lined with steel blue and chestnut shot taffeta. and made with two lonj; tabs In

front that remain separate from the body, something like a stole with a cape thrown- over the shoulders. It fastens with brown satin ribbon, and the same ribbon, pleated, appears at the neck. It’s not a bit too early to study furs Intently; Indeed, fur Is considered a necessity all the year round by highly fakhlonable women. In the summer time she has her enshrouding cloak lined softly with fur, to wrap about her muslin gown when she comes into the cool moonlight from the summer ball-room, to Insure her against the dew and the salt chill of the air when the yacht party Is late. In the winter time she Is, of course, enswathed with

furs, and In the fall a little collarette or tiny cape Is to be a part of her street attire, to protect her against the freshening breuth of the autumn air. As to fur trimming, it will be quite as plentiful and sliced up quite as finely as It was last winter. Costumes are already appearing that are trimmed with fur edgings, and one of these appears iu the third Illustration, a gowu of black cloth, a shade that Is now in unusually high favor. The fur Is able and appears on rovers, basque and skirt. Steel buttons In three sizes are put on a skirt, sleeves and bodice, and the latter has a gathered vest of white silk and a black silk belt To urgo Russian sable for trimming Is advice more easily given than followed, but genuine lace and real sable have the udvautage of being always Just right. More humble peltry will do, however, and thero nre quantities of It In the new’ trimmings. Speaking generally, all-cloth gowns are In greater favor than ure those that combine cloth with silks and velvets, but there are a plenty of the latter, after all, for variety must be attained somehow. Cloth dresses with velvet for coat revers and wrist finish are often seen, and novel and pretty combinations of cloth and silk are not infrequent It Is a highly plcturesquo example of the latter sort that Is to bo seen In the next picture. Steel gray cloth Is the chief fabric, and it Is trimmed W’lth dark gray galloon. On the skirt there are silk panels of gray silk, above which the front aucf back are cut Into tabs set off by pearl buttons. A vest of the same silk Is supplied to the bodice, whose cloth Is slashed and trimmed to harmonlzo with the skirt The sleeves have large puffs ending In overlapping straps, and long fitted silk cuffs. These strap pleqes seem much more In keeping with tailor dresses, and their use In the manner Indicated on

file final pictured gown Is less abJectlonable, though there Is no denying that they ept up the dress goods. That Is, in this case, gray cloth and it is trimmed at the skirt’s hem and up the front with mohair braid, but the arrangement of the straps and their buttons is, of course, the distinctive feature of the scheme* of ornamentation. By a modification of this general Idea straps seams are made to lose much of their intended effect. They still are a tailor-made characteristic and give a manly finish, but when the straps are permitted to fall Into vagaries and widen hero and there for the privilege of being buttoned down again, the effect produced In some cases Is too suggestive of feminine fanclfulncss to accord with tailor styles. Still, the tailor girl Is often of an Independent turn, and she’ll have the accessories that she takes a liking to, even If they are entirely opposed to the severity that generally characterizes her attire. So she will make a Jaunty adaptation of the Louis NVIII. style in rich broadcloth, fur trimmed and In deep rich colors, and will also turn the blouse fashion and boxpleat front to her use. To the latter end Is shown a little affair of cloth, with a boxpleat buttoning over double-breasted with large pearl buttons. From under the fastening comes a rich frill of lace-edged ohiffoU, a charming concession to femineity that makes the Severe tailor coat with which this waist-coat Is to be worn, the more attractive. Two or three seasons ago when most tailor rigs Included long, full skirted coats, feminine elaborations had small showing In tailor dresses, and a score of them, considered as they passed In the street, would have presented an unbroken severity that suggeted manliness right manfully. Now, however, i these coats have been seized upon by the knlckerbockered woman bicyclist and In the tailor costumes appear suggestions of feminine daintiness that are permissible. To most womei, toe, they seem a decided Improvement. Copyright, 1805.

MORE DRESSY THAN PROTECTIVE.

BLACK CLOTH FASHIONABLY FUR TRIMMED.

SLASHES THAT EAT UP DRESS GOODS.

STRAPS, TOO, THAT SUGGEST WASTE.