Democratic Sentinel, Volume 19, Number 30, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 2 August 1895 — FOR THE FAIR SEX. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FOR THE FAIR SEX.

SKIRTS DON'T BOTHER MUCH SO LONG AS THEY ARE CO* PIOUS. It istha Waist, the Collet, the Hair and Incidentally the Face that Lovely Women Must Depend Upon for Her Artificial Attractiveness. The original fancy for the novel in whist decoration is deepening into widespread anxiety. No one minds much about her skirts, if they are moderately wide and have the braid on them, but a new waist involves labor of body and mind. The sailor collar is rampant. It has grown to be the madness of the hour. We see it not only in the duck, gingham and humble fabrics, but in satin and the finest, in black and white colors, particularly linen color. Some seek to vary the simple collar effect by adding fichu ends. In which case the whole arrangement is often adjustable; The most popular of these finishing touches [is made of fine grass linen, with trimmings of black or white lace. But they may be fashioned from any other material at hand.

Stole effects are the latest and perhaps the prettiest. At the back they fit perfectly, extend in epaulet fashion over the sleeves and down the front in loose ends, finishing just at the waistline, where, after their own sweet will, they may flop about a bit. Stoles are made from the dress fabric, grass linen or net. Some particularly smart ones have been made of black Brussels, ornamented with appliqued jet pieces. They have, in the latter case, jet borders. A gown of white glace taffeta with lines of black and small flowers of yellow, has a vest of yellow chiffon and a modified stole trimming of white Russian lace or yellow silk. Yellow chiffon ends, which make a pretty decoration if kept out of ice cream, finish the sleeve. A hat of black and a parasol of white, gloves of pale yellow with w r hite stitchings, add the necessary garden party touches. Shoulder straps ending in broad sash-like tabs are the prominent features of a jahnty evening waist, intended, oddly enough, for half-

mourning. The body of the waist is of dull white gros grain silk, ornamented with black cordrd chiffons insertings. The sleeves are of fine black and white striped silk, not glace, and the tab ends are of dull black gros grain, held in place by buckles of unpolished blackness. It has always seemed a little curious that conventional mourning should insist upon certain somber standard colors, though permitting, even requiring, that the mode be of the latest. But why quarrel with the mode? One may refuse to adopt it if she like 3. But why differ excitedly with it or anything? \ FASHION NOTES. To take the place of chiffon is a slightly heavier material called mignon. Perforated muslin, either white or ecru, looks particularly pretty over a color. Milliners are making great use of net, tulle, lisse and lace, particularly black and white. Fancy trimmings and startling contrasts in bathing dresses are avoided by well-bred women. Some of the new bathing dresses are made with very pale Turkish trousers that fasten just below the knee • A pink gingham has a bodice with diagonal stripes of white satin ribbon %nd white guipure insertion.

Very dainty boating costumes are made of blue and white striped canvas, with two box plaits in the back of the blouse waist and one on either side of the front, where it opens over a lawn shirt striped with Valenciennes laceThe tartan craze has attacked parasols as well as shirt waists. Pretty flowered lawns and muslin for young girls are trimmed with twoinch striped ribbons, as neck band, holding a puff in the sleeve above the elbow, and in smart, perkish bows each side of the slight fullness in the bodice front. The lovely Dresden and chine ribbons are used with Dlain materials. Blue serge suits are made with box-plaited bodices, the plaits edged with detachable needlework frills. Stylish snits of tan and gray duck have heavy white vests. Another novelty in black satin has a narrow yoke of green velvet, and the satin is cut in a deep point at the back, on the shoulders, with two points in front and covered with spangles to match the velvet.

Black silk muslin and chiffon flowered in soft colors and large patterns make lovely summer gowns for matrons. They are made up over black taffeta and require very little trimming. The latest capes are triumphs of color and[ decoration. Blouse waists of finely-striped washing silks, with turn-over collars of lawn or white silk edged with lace, are the coolest things possible, and dainty to look upon. White parasols of plain silk and no trimming are the prevailing fashion for general use with light gowns, and in addition to these are the changeable silks for greater service, and some that are covered with large Scotch plaids, very conspicuous but rare in the procession. Patent-leather with black stockings and tan shoes with stockings to match are the reigning styles of the season. A pretty, girlish costume is of a rose-sprigged foulard, with a full bodice, and the neck squared just a little back and front. No collar is worn with this frock, although it is a day dress, the only protection to the neck being the gauze band with the wide-spreading wings. Black jet is very effective with white. An exceedingly chic little evening toilette is of white mousseline de soie, with a large jetted ornament in front of the low-cut bodice as the only trimming. A jet aigrette is worn in the hair to match. Glace silk takes the place of moire this year. For general street and outing wear are many plain white sailors and walking shapes with white bands. Black satin ribbon in sash width is embroidered with scale spangles in electric blue, garnet, green, copper, gold or steel. An unusually pretty button in a fleur-de-lis design framed in a fanciful circlet is of rhinestones cut and set like diamond chips. For summer wear blouses will be cut low and square at the neck, bordered with galon or embroidery and with short sleeves. Pearl gray, with a decided blue tinge, is a reigning favorite tint in cloth. All kinds of thin, gauzy materials are popular this season for both gowns and waists. A conspicuous feature of milinery is the immense display of abnormally wide ribbons.

Small buckles aud belt buckles are being used as much as ever. A double czarina is new this season. The round waist blossoms out afresh on toilets and costumes of every sort and for every possible occasion. Plain organdies of red, yellow, blue, mauve and green make very stunning gowns trimmed with cream or black lace. The dominant note of dress decoration is lace, und nothing but the most severe tailor-made coat aud skirt escape a touch of it. Wide collars of batiste and lace are so generally used for the decoration of summer gowns that they have become a familiar feature of fashion. An economical way to have variety in the thin waists which require lining is to have one well-fitted silk underbodice which can do duty for them all. The latest French chine shows shadowy, blurred designs. Minute flowers are shown at their best on white grounds. In these all the new tones are blended with delightful results. Colored batiste blouses with tucked muslin and lace collars and cuffs and a wide plait down the front are charming little additions to the wardrobe. Melton cloth of the finest quality is used by fashionable tailors instead of covert suiting for costumes and jackets for cool days at the sea side or -in the mountains. Pin-dotted changeable silks in soft lovely summer tints, glittering with a sheen of gold or silver, are made with a belted waist with rich-looking yoke of ecru guipure lace, with round shoulder-bertha of the same.

" Dimities, organdies, lawns and light silks are more tempting just now than any sort of cloth, and lovely gowns of these dainty fabrics are made in most instances without lining and worn over silk petticoats. There is a new, very comfortable and useful glove for bicycling wear. It is made in silk and also in lisle and fits the hand perfectly. The gloves have a reiuforced leather palm and they make a practical and yet easy glove for the purpose, intended. Linen, cambric or cotton gowns are quite glorified by the liberal amount of embroidered trimming bestowed upon them. In the exhibit of new grenadines are those in white stripe effects on black grounds, with tiny lines of rich color woven between the stripes. Black velvet ribbon and black lace are used to trim white and light-colored muslins, and black summer fabrics, in tlieii turn, are relieved with trimmings of white. Straight bands of ribbon on each side oi the dress-skirt appear on some of the pretty youthful gowns made of silk, sheei wool, and many of "the new charming lawns and linens. A new effect for the necks of summer .gowns consists of milliners’ folds laid smoothly on the neck of the bodice, without any standing collar to oppress aud stifle throughout' the dog days. The charming Dresden muslins are in high fashion for youthful wearers. The soft semi-diaphanous grounds are figured with the most fascinating patterns of roses, violets, shaded green foliage and blossoms aud sprays of every lovely color and kind.