Democratic Sentinel, Volume 19, Number 30, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 2 August 1895 — Page 5

FOR THE FAIR SEX.

SKIRTS DON'T BOTHER MUCH SO LONG AS THEY ARE CO* PIOUS. It istha Waist, the Collet, the Hair and Incidentally the Face that Lovely Women Must Depend Upon for Her Artificial Attractiveness. The original fancy for the novel in whist decoration is deepening into widespread anxiety. No one minds much about her skirts, if they are moderately wide and have the braid on them, but a new waist involves labor of body and mind. The sailor collar is rampant. It has grown to be the madness of the hour. We see it not only in the duck, gingham and humble fabrics, but in satin and the finest, in black and white colors, particularly linen color. Some seek to vary the simple collar effect by adding fichu ends. In which case the whole arrangement is often adjustable; The most popular of these finishing touches [is made of fine grass linen, with trimmings of black or white lace. But they may be fashioned from any other material at hand.

Stole effects are the latest and perhaps the prettiest. At the back they fit perfectly, extend in epaulet fashion over the sleeves and down the front in loose ends, finishing just at the waistline, where, after their own sweet will, they may flop about a bit. Stoles are made from the dress fabric, grass linen or net. Some particularly smart ones have been made of black Brussels, ornamented with appliqued jet pieces. They have, in the latter case, jet borders. A gown of white glace taffeta with lines of black and small flowers of yellow, has a vest of yellow chiffon and a modified stole trimming of white Russian lace or yellow silk. Yellow chiffon ends, which make a pretty decoration if kept out of ice cream, finish the sleeve. A hat of black and a parasol of white, gloves of pale yellow with w r hite stitchings, add the necessary garden party touches. Shoulder straps ending in broad sash-like tabs are the prominent features of a jahnty evening waist, intended, oddly enough, for half-

mourning. The body of the waist is of dull white gros grain silk, ornamented with black cordrd chiffons insertings. The sleeves are of fine black and white striped silk, not glace, and the tab ends are of dull black gros grain, held in place by buckles of unpolished blackness. It has always seemed a little curious that conventional mourning should insist upon certain somber standard colors, though permitting, even requiring, that the mode be of the latest. But why quarrel with the mode? One may refuse to adopt it if she like 3. But why differ excitedly with it or anything? \ FASHION NOTES. To take the place of chiffon is a slightly heavier material called mignon. Perforated muslin, either white or ecru, looks particularly pretty over a color. Milliners are making great use of net, tulle, lisse and lace, particularly black and white. Fancy trimmings and startling contrasts in bathing dresses are avoided by well-bred women. Some of the new bathing dresses are made with very pale Turkish trousers that fasten just below the knee • A pink gingham has a bodice with diagonal stripes of white satin ribbon %nd white guipure insertion.

Very dainty boating costumes are made of blue and white striped canvas, with two box plaits in the back of the blouse waist and one on either side of the front, where it opens over a lawn shirt striped with Valenciennes laceThe tartan craze has attacked parasols as well as shirt waists. Pretty flowered lawns and muslin for young girls are trimmed with twoinch striped ribbons, as neck band, holding a puff in the sleeve above the elbow, and in smart, perkish bows each side of the slight fullness in the bodice front. The lovely Dresden and chine ribbons are used with Dlain materials. Blue serge suits are made with box-plaited bodices, the plaits edged with detachable needlework frills. Stylish snits of tan and gray duck have heavy white vests. Another novelty in black satin has a narrow yoke of green velvet, and the satin is cut in a deep point at the back, on the shoulders, with two points in front and covered with spangles to match the velvet.

Black silk muslin and chiffon flowered in soft colors and large patterns make lovely summer gowns for matrons. They are made up over black taffeta and require very little trimming. The latest capes are triumphs of color and[ decoration. Blouse waists of finely-striped washing silks, with turn-over collars of lawn or white silk edged with lace, are the coolest things possible, and dainty to look upon. White parasols of plain silk and no trimming are the prevailing fashion for general use with light gowns, and in addition to these are the changeable silks for greater service, and some that are covered with large Scotch plaids, very conspicuous but rare in the procession. Patent-leather with black stockings and tan shoes with stockings to match are the reigning styles of the season. A pretty, girlish costume is of a rose-sprigged foulard, with a full bodice, and the neck squared just a little back and front. No collar is worn with this frock, although it is a day dress, the only protection to the neck being the gauze band with the wide-spreading wings. Black jet is very effective with white. An exceedingly chic little evening toilette is of white mousseline de soie, with a large jetted ornament in front of the low-cut bodice as the only trimming. A jet aigrette is worn in the hair to match. Glace silk takes the place of moire this year. For general street and outing wear are many plain white sailors and walking shapes with white bands. Black satin ribbon in sash width is embroidered with scale spangles in electric blue, garnet, green, copper, gold or steel. An unusually pretty button in a fleur-de-lis design framed in a fanciful circlet is of rhinestones cut and set like diamond chips. For summer wear blouses will be cut low and square at the neck, bordered with galon or embroidery and with short sleeves. Pearl gray, with a decided blue tinge, is a reigning favorite tint in cloth. All kinds of thin, gauzy materials are popular this season for both gowns and waists. A conspicuous feature of milinery is the immense display of abnormally wide ribbons.

Small buckles aud belt buckles are being used as much as ever. A double czarina is new this season. The round waist blossoms out afresh on toilets and costumes of every sort and for every possible occasion. Plain organdies of red, yellow, blue, mauve and green make very stunning gowns trimmed with cream or black lace. The dominant note of dress decoration is lace, und nothing but the most severe tailor-made coat aud skirt escape a touch of it. Wide collars of batiste and lace are so generally used for the decoration of summer gowns that they have become a familiar feature of fashion. An economical way to have variety in the thin waists which require lining is to have one well-fitted silk underbodice which can do duty for them all. The latest French chine shows shadowy, blurred designs. Minute flowers are shown at their best on white grounds. In these all the new tones are blended with delightful results. Colored batiste blouses with tucked muslin and lace collars and cuffs and a wide plait down the front are charming little additions to the wardrobe. Melton cloth of the finest quality is used by fashionable tailors instead of covert suiting for costumes and jackets for cool days at the sea side or -in the mountains. Pin-dotted changeable silks in soft lovely summer tints, glittering with a sheen of gold or silver, are made with a belted waist with rich-looking yoke of ecru guipure lace, with round shoulder-bertha of the same.

" Dimities, organdies, lawns and light silks are more tempting just now than any sort of cloth, and lovely gowns of these dainty fabrics are made in most instances without lining and worn over silk petticoats. There is a new, very comfortable and useful glove for bicycling wear. It is made in silk and also in lisle and fits the hand perfectly. The gloves have a reiuforced leather palm and they make a practical and yet easy glove for the purpose, intended. Linen, cambric or cotton gowns are quite glorified by the liberal amount of embroidered trimming bestowed upon them. In the exhibit of new grenadines are those in white stripe effects on black grounds, with tiny lines of rich color woven between the stripes. Black velvet ribbon and black lace are used to trim white and light-colored muslins, and black summer fabrics, in tlieii turn, are relieved with trimmings of white. Straight bands of ribbon on each side oi the dress-skirt appear on some of the pretty youthful gowns made of silk, sheei wool, and many of "the new charming lawns and linens. A new effect for the necks of summer .gowns consists of milliners’ folds laid smoothly on the neck of the bodice, without any standing collar to oppress aud stifle throughout' the dog days. The charming Dresden muslins are in high fashion for youthful wearers. The soft semi-diaphanous grounds are figured with the most fascinating patterns of roses, violets, shaded green foliage and blossoms aud sprays of every lovely color and kind.

COST OF A LINER’S TRIP.

HEAVY EXPENSES INCURRED BY THE ST. LOUIS. Her Captain Alone Receives a Large Salary, but the Bills for Coal, Supplies and Wear and Tear Ar« Enormous - - Handsome Profits Realized. Much has been written about the great steamship St. Louis, which promises to be the forerunner of a magnificent fleet of Yankee built and Yankee devised transatlantic liners. Her many wonders of workmanship and her great engines have all been described and applauded. Naval experts have studied her to discover her worth as a war vessel, as she now belongs to the auxiliary navy of Uncle Sam, and has been so constructed that almost instantaneously she can be converted into a swift cruiser, with speed enough to catch up with or run away, if the latter be necessary, from anything that floats. An interesting feature of the St. Louis, but one which has not been touched upon, is the cost of maintaining her. She is a little city or municipality in herself, the Captain being the Mayor and the officers the Board of Aldermen. The agents of the big ocean liners are inclined to be shy about talking of the expense of their steamer, as the rivalry between the different lines is so intense that none of them care to give out information which may be business ammunition for another. Clement A. Griscom, Jr., son of the president of the line controlling the St. Louis, however, agreed to give some figures on the question when seen by the writer. He figured for some time, and then said that the expense of the round trip of a steamer like the St. Louis averages between $60,000 and SBO,OOO, according to the season. This is the busiest time in the year for the big liners, and when the St. Louis gets back from Southhampton her maiden voyage both ways across the Atlantic will have cost fully SBO,OOO. The voyage between the two ports will take a trifle more than seven days, making the daily cost of operating one of the huge sea monsters something like $5,500. In the winter time, when the passenger traffic is down to a minimum, the expenses, of course, are much less, and that is when the cost gets down to $60,000 for the.round trip. Men who spend SIO,OOO a month on a steam yacht, as Commodore Elbridge T. Gerry does, are regarded as terribly extravagant, but maintaining a vessel like the St. Louis for a month would cost something approaching the sum of $200,000. No single individual on the St. Louis gets a large salary. Of course the captain heads the list, getting about $5,000 a year. Captains on smaller passenger steamers only receive SB,OOO a year, which in those times of great salaries is not any too large. The chief officer of a ship like the St. Louis gets only about $1,500, whioll la oonoowhat email when it is remembered that the bulk of the heavy work falls on his shoulders. The second officer’s pay ranges from S9OO to $1,200, according to the size of the ship, while the third and fourth officers only get from S6OO to S9OO. All of these men have to perform duties of a responsible kind, and as there are no bonuses attached to their work it can be seen that they are not overpaid. These items also show that while the vast sums of money are expended on running ships of the size of the St. Louis, none of it is thrown away. The crew of the St. Louis numbers 410 men. Two hundred of these are in the engineer’s department, and all of them are directly under the authority of the chief. The steward department is the next largest, numbering 170 in all. The sailors, including the deck officers, number forty. The engineer’s department is the most expensive of the ship, owing to the immense coal bills. The St. Louis burns more than thirty tons a day, or about 4,500 tons the round trip. This means an expenditure of $15,000 alone. The salaries of the men, the engineering supplies, including the thousand and one things needed for the vast machinery of a great ship, call for $5,000 more every round trip. The chief engineer draws SB,OOO a year, and his immediate assistants receive $1,500, $1,200 and SI,OOO respectively., The stokers or firemen average SBO per month, and the furnaces of the St. Louis require 180 of them working in different shifts. The purser, who is the most important person on board, does not get jjuch in the way of a salary, as the company, in fixing his pay, figured on the large bonuses he receives for changing money and performing the little services which the wealthy traveler does not hesitate to pay for liberally. His salary is only SI,OOO a year, but he makes another $2,000 in fees, and sometimes considerably more. The ship’s surgeon only receives S9OO a year for the same reason. He is brought in contact with numerous real and fancied invalids of the wealthy class and, although no one is compelled to fee him, few fail to do so, and a big popular tiiip like the St. Louis is worth in the neighborhood of SB,OOO. to $4,000 a year. The steward s department is one of the costliest on the ship, as it provides the provisions for all the passengers and crew. The provisions for a round trip cost in the neighborhood of $12,000, and the salaries of the steward’s men amount to SB,OOO more. The stewards are the least paid of any on the ship, for the reason that in the fees of the passengers they collect a very respectable sum annually. All the pay they get is S2O a month, but they take in S4O a month in tips. The real downright seasick man and woman are almost willing to give their last cent for some little service, and the stewards who are constantly thrown in witli this class, of unfortunates reap a goodly harvest The chief steward receives $1,500 a year and also comes in for’his share of the tips, as it is within his power to place many delicacies in the way of the liberal tourist. The chief cook is a great man on the ship, almost as great as the captain, and in all makes $3,000 a year out of his job. The breakage and wear and tear on the ship and its furniture is very «eavy, requiring an expenditure in

incidentals of about $5,000 each round trip. There are countless little things to be replaced, and a compartively little thing like the washing of the ship’s linen means an expenditure big enough to support a man for a year in the lap of luxury. While the expenses are great, of course the income is proportionately large. A round trip that costs $60,000 should bring at least SIOO,OOO into the coffers of the company, if not considerably more. But when the expenses are down to $60,000 the company is glad to break even. Here are some odd facts about the St. Louis. There are fully 1,000 tons of piping of various kinds in the ship. The condensers will pump up at least 50,000,000 galians of cooling water a.day. The furnaces will consume no less than 7,500,000 cubic feet of air an hour. The boiler tubes, if placed in a straight line, would stretch nearly ten miles, and the condenser tubes more than twenty-five miles. The total number of separate pieces of steel in the main structure of the ship is not less than 40,000, and the total number of cubic feet of timber used in ths construction is more than 100,000. The total number ofrivets is not far from 1,250.000. A distinguished marine engineer of England once estimated that in a ship of this size, if all the steel which composes it were made into needles and placed in a line, they would reach moro than ten times around the earth, or the distance to the moon, 240,000 miles. Another expert has estimated that if the ship were propelled by galley oarsmen, as in ancient times, it would require a force of 117,000 men continuously at work to develop the same power that the engines of this ship will produce.

Training a Locomotive.

It may not be generally known that locomotives intsnded for express trains require as much training, in their way, for fast running as do race horses. The Pennsylvania Railroad Company builds its own engines and those built for express trains are known as Class P, They are very large und built with slight variations after the pattern of the big English engino imported into this country several years ago, and which at that time was a curiosity in its way. When one of tiieso big engines is taken out of the shops to bo placed on the road, instead of putting it to the work it is intended for at once, it is run for two or throe weeks on some one of the local branches, in order to train it, so to speak, for faster running. By this means all the bearings and journals connected with the running gear become settled to their work; for, should anything about the new machine not work harmoniously, there is ample time to adjust the defect. Usually the new engine proves troublosome on account of its propensity to make fast time, and at almost every station is found to be a little ahead of schedule time, and must wait for from ten seconds to a ininuto. Xo- 100 us Class P was running yesterday on the Trenton accommodation train, but will soon be flying over the road from Broad street station to New York and return, at the rate, in many places, of a mile a minute-

Met Death Dramatically.

An old minor of Wellington, British Columbia, met death in a dramatic way, some two weeks ago, as a result of an old, reckless practice. His long familiarity with explosives had made him careless. He always kept his keg of black powder stowed under his bed in the little cabin in which he lived, and had a bad habit of smoking in bed until he fell asleep. This might seem criminally careless to any one but a miner, but the possibility of disaster probably never occurred to the old man or his neighbors. But what every one else might have expected, happened. One night recently a near neighbor was awakened by the crackling of flames, and found the old man's cabin was afire. Before any help could be rendered the explosion came, and the old miner and his cabin went up.

Curious Slave Laws.

In the Soudan,according to a traveler who recently returned from that country, a slave who considers himself ill-treated has a right, not to freedom, indeod, but to select a master more to his liking. To be safe from recapture and punishment, the bondsman has only to escape from his old homo by night, go immediately to the house of any man to whom he chooses to belong, and, arriving there, snip a bit of cartilage from the ear of its sleeping proprietor. That accomplished, the matter is settled; neither the old nor the new master can question the transaction’s legality or binding force. The traveler reports that he saw several men in the Soudan whose ears had almost disappeired, so often had the discontented slaves of others thus disturbed tliei: slumbers.

A Farmer’s Lucky Find.

While working in the cellar of his house, on the old Thomas Potter farm in Elm Valley, northeast of Delaware, 0., John Hunt made his fortune by a lucky find. With his hired man, George Legg, he was cleaning out the cellar, which had not been used for many years. Legg came across a flat stone 2xß feet and removed it. The stone covered a strange looking old earthern jar. The cover was removed and the jar was found to contain hundreds of golden S2O pieces. The fortune is estimated at $20,000 to $25,000.

Onion Juice Mucilage.

A very convenient mucilage can be made of onion juice by any one who wishes to use it. A good sized Spanish onion, after being boiled for a short time, will yield, on being pressed, quite a large quantity of very adhesive fluid. This is us6d extensively in various trades for pasting paper onto tin, or zinc, or even glass, and the tenacity with which it holds would surprise any one making the first attempt. It is cheap and good mucilage, and answers as well as the more costly Invention,

A POPULAR PRINCE.

Practically at tha Haad of tho Gov- • rnmtnt Now. “If Great Britain were to adopt a republican form of government tomorrow, and if there were to be a popular election for President of the British Republic, the Prince of Wales would easily receive a majority of all the votes in the United Kingdom over any other candidate who could be named.” These words from one of the leading public men of England, himself anything but a royalist in principle and temperament, fairly reflect the views of the most experienced and astute judges of publio opinion in Great Britain. For a score of years the prince has practically performed all the social and public duties of a British monarch, while holding the position and receiving recognition only as the first

THE PRINCE OF WALES.

of the queen’s subjects. He has made some errors, but they have not keen serious errors. Helms had to satisfy a groat many people, widely differing in temperament, education, politics ar.d religion, and yot possessing a certain common instinct of nationality, an insulate prejudice, a respect for established institutions and traditions quite unknown to cosmopolitan people like the Americans. So it is that, when the prince speaks so felicitously at the dedication of some new philanthropic or religious institution, most non-conformists readily forgive his sporting tendencies, while all but the ultra Jacobins among radical workingmen forget his royal blood when he strides democratically among the horses in the saddling paddock on Derby day. In short, the Prince of Wales satisfies the tastes, ideas and prejudices of the average Englishman better than any member of his royal houso has yet succeeded In doüßfußf a. -'■'-—a that invariably greet his every public appearance are the echo of a spontaneous and general popular regard—heightened, of course, by the respect and affection inspired by the character of his lovely and estimable wife. It is this foeling, undoubtedly, which has given rise to the rumor of the queen's abdication upon the occasion of the celebration of her next birthday. The rumor is not a new one. A good deal was said about it during the Jubiloe year, 1887. Each succeeding year, as the queen’s infirmities have grown upon her and she hue taken less and less intorest in public affairs and more persistently withdrawn from all social duties, there has been moro or less talk of the same character.

A WEST POINT HEROINE.

How She Saved a Cadet’s Commission. Hundreds of pretty girls particl pated in the graduating festivities at West Point military Academy. But the queen of them ail was a black-eyed young woman from Michigan, whose health will be drunk at every army post where the young officers of 1895 are stationed, and the story of whose ready wit and audacity will be a West Point legend for years to come. Four marks against a cadet rendef him liable to dismissal, or, as cadets call it, “found.” Despite the strict rules against smoking some of the youngsters run the chances of slyly puffing cigarettes, and, having no pockets, carry them inside the bands of their caps. The last day of the four-year course found one cadet with three marks against his record. His commission in the army was almost in sight, and he was hastening to the lost duty he would have to perform under the rigid discipline of the academy. On the walk in front of Officers’ Row he met the charming young woman from Michigan with the strictest of the tactical officers stationed at the point. After saluting as required tiie cadet raised his cap to the pretty girl and a cigarette fell to the ground at the tactical man’s feet. For a moment the cadet was almost paralyzed. A vision of the four black marks and a sense of the danger of being dismissed at the last hour came upon him. The officer did not see the cigarette fall from the cap, but his eye lighted uoon it at his feet. The cadet stopped and stood at attention while the officer looked at him for a moment and then sternly said : ‘‘l shall be obliged to report you for smoking, sir." The young woman saw the situation and before another word could be said stepped between the two men. “This is not his cigarette,” she exclaimed to the tactical officer, looking him unflinchingly in the face. There was a moment of strained silence. “Captain, you shall not report that cadet for smoking,” she went on hurriedly, a flush mounting to her cheeks. “The cigarette is not his, blit mine. I dropped it. I know it is shameful for me to confess that I do such a thing as to smoke, but lots of us girls do it,” and she forced a little laugh. “You will not tell on me, will you?” She went on with an appealing glance that penetrated the stern military breast. “I would not have it known.”

The Captain vowed promises. His honor as a gentleman compelled him to accept the young woman’s word but his eye was fixed upon the cadet. “Come on, Captain, or we will be late,” said the girl in triumph, and as she passed she gave the cadet a smile that stole his heart away. That night the old stone buildings resounded with joy, and the next day, when his diploma was handed to the cadet, she applauded him more than any on 9 else.

Truly Noble Heroines.

The beautiful and statuesque Archduchess Maria Theresa, the youthful wife of the elder brother and heir of Emperor Francis Joseph, won a medal for herself at a fire which broke out in the littlo town of Reichenau, which adjoins her splendid country seat at Wartholx. The archduchess dashed through the flames to the rescue of a child, and emerged a few moments later with a half suffocated infant in her arms, her magnificent hair and her clothes being badly singed. She had hardly reached the street, amid a storm of cheers, when the roof fell in. Yet another wearer of the life saving medal is the pretty Princess Eleanore Solms. She was walking with her sister, Princess Marie, at Dresden, two years ago, when she caught sight of a runaway horse ridden by a lady who had lost control of the animal. Without hesitation, both girls threw themselves at the horse’s head. Princess Marie, the younger, was dashed to one side, fortunately unhurt; but Princess Eloanore succeeded In grasping the bridle and was dragged thirty yards before the beast stopped, when, womanlike, she fainted away. Nor was the medal conferred upon her by her brother in law, the emperor, the only token of recognition that she received for her gallantry. Tho Central Association of Fire Brigades of the empire eloctod her an honorary member of their corporation. Another royal lady docorated with this medal is tho Dowuger Queen l’ia, of Portugal, who is as magnificent a swimmer as the Queen Regent, of Spain or Princess Helen, of Orleans. Queen Pla, while fully drossed, swam out Into tho sea ut La Grunju some years ago and rescued two children, whose boat had been capsized by the heavy soa then running. Ilea son, the prosent King of Portugal, ought by rights to wear one of those medal b as woll, having last yonr personally Intervened in a struggle between two men, and saved iho life of tho weaker of the two, In addition to holding the would be murderer until assistance could be procured.

How a Rose Was Produced.

In tho old mythology Cupid is said to have tripped while carrying a vase of nectar, and this falling upon tho Valley on earth produced the rose. Solomon's rose garden isnourJeruu \|nlinniin«ilii n.Junoti'l, l ” to the effect that the genii met the king thore and signed a bond with him, writton with saffron and rose water, on the petals of whlto rosos. At the east end of the cathedral of Hildosholin, in Hanover, Germuny, there is a rose tree which is tho wonder and admiration of all lovers of flowers. It is said to he 800 years old, and is fed with bullock's blood, convoyed to its roots by pi pi s. Tradition says tlmtonoof the earlier emperors had mass celebrated in tho forest on this site. His chaplain, ut the conclusion of the service, hung the sacred vessels on a rose bush and followed the chaso witii his master. Whan they returned they found the rose bush grown to an enormous size, so that tho holy vessels were qulto beyond their roach. The Emperor built a shrine, and subsequently a cathedral, to demonstrate the miracle. In 1685 but four species of roses were known. La Qulrttln, gardener to Louis XIV, raised the number to fourteen. In 1820 Alphonse do Candollo onumeorted one hundred and forty species. The number of wild species now known to botanlstras is over two hundred and fifty, to which may be addod as many more sub species, or varieties, while the list of garden varieties, mostly with double llowerB; number? over six thousand, and it is every year fecelvlng fresh additions. Black roses are odd, rather than pretty. They are not really black, but a dusky red. The color is said to be produced by engrafting a sprig of hickory upon the rose tree.

Do Flies Talk?

An ingenious inquirer, armed with a microphone, or sound magnifier, has been listening patiently through long hours to the curious noises made by house files, and reports his belief that they have a language of their own. The language does not consist of the buzzing sound we ordinarily hear, which is made by the rapid vibration of their wings in the air, but of a smaller, finer and more widely modulated series of sounds, audible to the human oar only by the aid of the microphone. Probably this fly conversation is perfectly audible to fly ears, which, as every schoolboy knows who has tried to move his hand slowly upon them, are very acute. The hope is expressed that, since the heretofore inaudible whispers of flies have been detected and recorded, some inventor may construct a njlcrophrino which will enable us to make out the language of the microbes, and so surpriso them in the horrible secret of their mode of operations.

Meditating on Eternity.

—New York Herald

PROF. HUXLEY'S LIFE.

All Honors in tha Gift of Nations Cams to Him. Americans heard Professor Huxley lecture In New York when he was in all the brightness of his honors. He was unrivaled as a lecturer on scientific subjects, and one who was a good judge of eloquence said that ha was, “next to John Bright, the best orator in England.” This he was, undoubtedly, in exposition and in power of elucidating a complex subject before a popular audience. He spoke clearly, deliberately, and with much force. He says in his autobiography, which is the slightest but the most Interesting record which may be made of his life, that “physically and mentally I am the son of my mother so completely that I can hardly find trace of my father in myself, except an inborn faculty for drawing, which, unfortunately in my case, lias never been cultivated.” He says: “My regular school training was of the briefest, perhaps fortunately, for though my way of life has made me acquainted with all sorts and conditions of men, from the highest to

PROFESSOR HUXLEY.

the lowest, I deliberately affirm that the society I fell into at school was the worst I have over come across. “We boys wore average lads, with much the same inherent capacity for good and evil as any others; but the people who were sot over us cared about as much for our Intellectual and moral welfare as If they wore baby fanners. Wo wore left to the operation of a struggle for existence among ourselves, and bullying was the loast 6? tho ill practices current among us. “As I grew older my great desire was to be a mochanicul engineer, but tho fates wore against this, and while very young I commenced tho study of medicine under u medical brother In law. “I am now occasionally horrified to think how very little I cared about medicine as the art of healing. “lam sorry to say that I do not think that any account of my doings as a student would tond to edificatatlng my exumple. I labored extremely hnrd when it pleased me, and when It did not—which very often was the case—l was extremely idle, unless making caricatures of one’s pastors and masters Is to bo called a branch of industry, or else wastod my energies In the wrong direction, I road everything I could lav my hands upon, Including novels, and took up ull sorts of pursuits, to drop them again quite as speedily. No doubt It was largely my own fault, hut the only instructlod” from which I obtained the proper effoct of education was that which I received from Mr. Wharton Jonos, the lecturer on physiology at the Charing Cross School of Medicine. “The extent and preciseness of his knowledge Impressed me greatly, and the severe exactness of his method of lecturing was quite to my taste. 1 do not know that I have over felt so much respect for anybody as a teacher before or since. I worked hard to obtain his approbation, and he was extremely kind and helpful to the youngster who, I am afraid, took up more of his time than he had any right to do. “The last thing it would be proper for me to do would be to speak of the work of my life, or to say at the end of th? dov whether I think I earned my salary or not. Men nre ?nld to be partial judges of selves. Young men may be ; 1 doubt If old men are. Life seems terribly foreshortened when they look back and the mountain they set themselves to climb in youth turns out to be a mere spur of immeasurably higher ranges, when, with a failing breath, £hey reach the top. “But if I may speak of the objects I have had more or less definitely in view, since I began the ascent of my hillock, they are briefly these: To promote the increase of natural knowledge|and to forward the application of scientific methods of investigation to all the problems of life to the best of my ability, in the conviction which has grown with my growth and strengthened with my strength, that there is no alleviation for the sufferings of mankind except veracity of thought and of action and the resolute facing of tho world as it is when the garment of make believe by which pious hands have hidden its uglier feature is stripped off.”

A Model Workingman’s Town.

A model workingman’s town is to be laid out in Pennsylvania. The Apollo Iron and Steel Company are the projectors, and the town is to be near Apollo and to be called Vandegrift. Streets bordered with grass, paved with asphalt and lighted with eleetiicity are among the features. The town will be laid out by a professional landscape gardener, and competent architects will design the buildings, which will include shops as well as dwellings. The former, however, are not to be occupied by “company” stores, but will be run by reliable private merchants. There are no restrictions or conditions of any kind excepting that no saloons will be permitted. A few unliped capes in black, white and soft ecru are imported for very dressy occasions, but the majority of chiffon lace, net and grenadine models fall above a second cape of taffeta, surah or India silk.