Democratic Sentinel, Volume 19, Number 26, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 5 July 1895 — FOR THE FAIR SEX. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FOR THE FAIR SEX.

HOW WOMEN MAY ADD TO THEIR BEAUTY. Dress Does it If Cut in the Proper Manner and From Becoming Fab-rics*-Some Fetching Ideas That May Help Out in the Hot Weather. “I want,” said the summer girl to herself, ‘‘a gown that I can wear upon a variety of occasions—one not too elaborate for the street and vet appropriate for house wear.” And fashion straightaway devised the costume. The illustrated costume is decidedly chic both in color and cut, and is designed for out of door service. It is of a soft wool material of an odd shade of light blue, and is relieved by black and white. The godet skirt is banded about the lower edge with three narrow folds of the blue material. The corsage has a narrow vest of white cloth, ornamented with four big gilt buttons,, the turnover collar being also of the white. The puffs forming the upper part of the sleeves have on the under side an inserted piece of cloth laid in folds corresponding with the bands on the skirt. The entire sleeve is of the

Blue, and the close fitting cuff fastens ■at the wrist with four small gilt buttons. The black appears in broad satin ribbon, a twisted breadth of which is drawn across the bodice front at the waist line, belt fashion, ending on either side in a lengthwise bow. In the back the bodice flares out in an abbreviated skirt, edged all about with black satin. The light yellow straw bonnet worn with this gown is of the popular sharp pointed, brimless species, and has pink roses and a black aigrette by way of trimming. The inevitable crepon appears in the second costume. This time it is brown in color, and the pattern confines itself to the simple wave. Except for the large'scallops about the lower edge formed by the godet plaits the skirt is entirely plain. At the waist line there is a graceful zone, double pointed in the front and having big loops in the back'that extend earwise at the sides. The zbne is of blue miroir velvet edged with passementerie over paler blue satin. Velvet also forms the bodice yoke, which

is deeply slashed along the lower odge. Lengthwise bands of the passementerie extend from the yoke slashes to the zone, and in between is finely pitted brown chiffon. The sleeves hang in big balloons of the crepon from shoulder to elbow, the upper point of a deep buff of the velvet indenting the puffs at the elbow. The cuffs are finished off with the illuminated passementerie. The collar is of the velvet with loops at the back. The broad brimmed peaked crown hat is of brown straw faced with the velvet. It is ornamented with pale blue plumes. From the present indications, ■orchids and irises are the coming flowers in millinery. One thing may be said in their favor, that cheap imitations will not interfere with their popularity. An orchid, particularly •one of the small, rare varieties, is not an easy flower to imitate, and to do so in cheap material and by unskilled hands is simply impossible. fashion notes. What are called “French zephyrs” are fine soft ginghams made on Scotch looms. Pique dresses for small girls are made with the plain round waist and skirt with a wide hem and-worn over a white guimpe. Collars and revers of cream white open work embroidered batiste over white satin are a novel and showy trimming for black satin capes. Feathery horse-chestnut blossoms look very pretty on pale yellow straw hats trimmed with bronze-brown volvet ribbon rosettes and yellow lace. New beautiful creamy French ba-

tistes are used by many dressmakers in the fashioning of poetic-looking toilets for summer, in preference to the less durable chiffon textiles. Dresden china patterns are in new dotted Swiss muslins that have very light grounds wrought with tiny dots of the same color. Pretty Dresden ribbons trim these gowns. New French outing cloths, light of weight and pleasant to the touch, are selected for mountain and seaside dresses in preference to the more woolly outing flannels so long popular. All capes, if they are fashionable, are very short and show the waist line below, unless they are made in a latter style, which is fitted down to the waist at the back and front, with long stole ends reaching to the knee. A waist model for a gray crepon dress has a short jacket, pointed in front, with draped revers of gray velvet and ecru lace lapels underneath, worn over a pink silk vest made with a box plait and belt and collar of the same with two lace points, while points of guipure trim the sleeves at the elbow. A pretty model for soft silk is gauged in a circular yoke and fulled into a belt of silk covered with lace. The folded revers and square collar in the back are of the silked edged with lace insertion and satin ribbon. Mauve and rose shot taffeta makes a charming gown for afternoon wear, and white embroidered batiste and violet velvet form a harmonious trimming. The batiste may be used for a guimpe or yoke effect with full epaulets of the embroidery falling over the sleeves or for the entire waist over rose-colored silk. Brown holland, trimmed with white or ecru embroidery and colored ribbon, makes very stylish looking costumes for young girls. Golf and bicycle costumes give the young girl of the period a chance to make herself almost as conspicuous as the pyramids of Egypt. The lace collar, now so fashionable, cannot be too wide or too deep. Additionally the more costly the lace the better the collar. In leather belts for summer wear there are new colors and styles. They are wider and have more ornamentation than last season. White crepe Chinese shawls with a deep silk fringe will be among fashionable wraps for summer evenings. They are held to be “very dressy.” Since an American sculptor in Rome declared a woman to be a fool who, with beautiful ears, wears earrings, the fashion of sporting them has declined. India blue china is in use by all who happen to possess the kind no longer made. People who know its value enjoy most a dinner that is served on it. Jet and bead bodice fronts are revived in great elegance. Some of the designs and patterns are sufficiently intricate to be really interesting. The whipcord, tailor-made cloth jacket is about as “smart” a garment as Flora McFlimsey ever donned. Paper on the wall is a poor fit in comparison.