Democratic Sentinel, Volume 19, Number 15, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 19 April 1895 — GOWNS AND GOWNING. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GOWNS AND GOWNING.

WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION TO WHAT THEY WEAR. Brief Glances at Fancies Feminine, Frivolous, Mayhap, and Yet Offered in the Hope that the Reading May Prove Restful to Wearied Womankind. Gossip from Gay Gotham. Wew York Correspondence:

AINTY’ dresses are I quite as possible J ■ and desirable for Bthe morning hours as they are for afternoon wear,but the trouble is that Fft ' they are 80 easlly fy A soiled that women \\ are muc h Incdned LIV \\ t 0 wear WOm-OUt "■’pagsT*'— dresses and other

untidy rigs. Aprons are very serviceable in saving the gown’s looks, and they may at the same time add to its dressiness. The apron may be just a little square of delicate muslin, as transparent as is desired, and with perhaps a be-ribboning that makes it quite a butterfly affair. Despite such elaboration, it is not an affectation. The nap of the dress will be saved from she rubbing that will take the first freshness off in a very few wearings, for even fancy work, the book that is being read or the hands themselves will rub a delicate dress dingy in front before it shows wear elsewhere.

A rather more conventional model, but still a very pretty one, is seen beside the initial, and is in brown suiting, tlie skirt showing a panel of brown velvet on the left side. It is lined with silk and is heavily stiffened around the bottom, the hair cloth extending to the waist in back. Either taffeta or crepon may be used for the bodice, which has a fitted lining of white muslin. Front and back consist of one piece each, the former being a little full and hooking at the side. The full sleeves reach a trifle below the elbow and end In short cuffs. For garniture there is a simple ribbon belt with a full bow of the same on each shoulder. The Mother Hubbard long ago fell into disfavor, but at the same time a

great many of the prettiest loose morning gowns are to-day planned on this model. One of the simplest and most effective methods of giving an “air” to such a garment is to add to it deep caj>es that set out over the shoulders, epaulette fashion, and that are attached to a band of ribbon which passes about the neck over the shoulders and hangs down straight in front to the hem of the dress. The capes extend across the back and over the shoulders. In front, between the stole-like ends of ribbon, the yoke of the Mother Hubbard shows. The whole effect is charming. An elaborate gown on this plan was made of cream satin, the yoke of bluet velvet with insertions of guipure. The stole ends were of bluet velvet, and the capes of pale cream lace with inserted bands of bluet velvet. The device can be carried out with excellent effect in all fabrics of modest cost. It is better, at least for ordinary folk, to reserve rich stuffs for more ceremonious occasions. In receiving, whether on a grand scale or in a less formal way, a woman naturally desires to be seen at her best, and that means that her dress should be tastefully in style. Her latitude of choice, both as .to stuffs and the making of them, is very wide and in selecting samples for the next two illustrations, two have been chosen that are much unlike each other, while being each handsome and right in fashion. In the first of these dahlia colored silk is trimmed with silk applique, cream silk mousselihe and yellow cloth, covered with soutache braiding. Following the present rule, the skirt is very wide and is garnished with applique on either side of the front breadth. The bodice has a corselet covered with the braiding which is open in front and tiny silk

flgaro fronts. Cream silk mousseline gives the vest and collar and the elbow sleeves are topped by narrow] pointed epaulettes of the silk used in the gown. The applique is a darker shade otf . dahlia silk. | The second reception dress is more . strongly marked in its design, and is ' the sort of gown that hints of the wearer’s being possessed of ideas of her own regarding her attire, which she will i have carried out even if current accept-

ances get a black eye thereby, in tna present instance there is no marked defiance of fashion’s laws, but the gown is very original, as well as handsome. Cut from green woolen suiting, its trained skirt is bordered at the hem with Russian green velvet and a band of white cloth bordered with vari-col-ored spangles and beads. The very ornate bodice is of the woolen stuff covered with a velvet cuirass, banded and crossed with embroidered white cloth. A yoke of the same shows in back and front, and a small velvet V is added in both places. The velvet sleeves are slashed to allow woolen puffs to escape, and are garnished over the shoulders with embroidered straps. It takes an exceptionally good figure to carry the dress off successfully, but as such figures and such dresses are quite rare, the combination should be all the more effective and desirable.

Brilliant stuffs were never in so great demand, and spangles of all sorts are used to attain the glitter that is now so fashionable for dress goods. In mll-

linery the sparkle is effected by mock gems, and for general use there is a great demand for old paste, though new paste is by far the more brilliant So called French jewelry, too, is winning acceptance. Brooches come in absolutely correct design, and set in paste so artistically arranged as to color that the resulting bit of jewelry seems rather a priceless heirloom than a fake for a few dollars. Some people make it a matter of conscience not to wear makebelieve jewelry, but, after all, now that fashions change in ornaments as often as in bonnets, one should perhaps think twice before putting hard money into the genuine thing.' One's heirs may be disappointed at the value of the bequests, but the testator will have had much more fun. In the general rush toward glitter, galoons have taken on an added degree of brilliancy, and are employed to a greater extent. It is very freely used in the dress next pictured, and supplies the oddest part of the unusual epaulettes. These are somewhat in the shape of big butterflies, the galloon giving the wings. It also trims the skirt and belt. A cop-per-colored cloth brocaded with green is used for this dress, and the whole is very handsome. With such a gown it is necessary to wear a showy hat, and the choice here is for a black velvet trimmed with six rich black plumes, with a big paste ornament showing in the center of the front. The bodice of the Anal picture seems odd enough of cut to do without much trimming, but woman’s upper half gets much garniture these days, so the col-, lar and slashed fronts are embroidered. Beneath them a satin chemisette ap-

pears in front, the back of the bodice being plain, and the collar pointed behind. Around the hem of the skirt there is embroidery to match that above. The material is boucle cloth. The sleeves are just those whopping big ones that dressmakers try to convince women are as small as can be considered fashionable. The truth is that, lovely as the big puff sleeves are, they are waning. Women must have something new, and the new thing is the collapsed puff. Into this even more cloth goes than into the blown up balloon puff, only all of it hangs loose. The armholes come below the round of the shoulders, and the outline of the shoulder and the upper beginning of the arm is fitted without a wrinkle. From a band set about the arm a little above half way to the elbow on the outside of the arm, and, on the inside is a little shorter. It Is cut to droop in organ pipe folds, and is very Ugly, but doubtless, in a little while it will look splendid. Fortunately the sense of the beautiful changes with the fashions. It is a pity that women are not to be able to stick a pin into the balloon sleeves and have them forthwith wilt and crinkle into the collapsed sleeve. But what are new fashions invented for? That women may use old clothes? No, indeed! That they may be obliged to buy new ones. Copyrighted, 1S!)4.

THE FASHIONABLE GAUGE OF WIDTH.

ORIGINAL ABOVE THE WAIST.

WITH WINGS ATTACHED.

ANOTHER BODICE NOVELTY.