Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 48, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 14 December 1894 — WORN BY THE WOMEN [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WORN BY THE WOMEN

SOME OF THE VERY LATEST IDEAS IN DRESS. Great Variety of Collarettes on New Gowns—Bodices Mnst Be Daintily Contrived—Fur Much Used as Trimming—Gray Astrakhan Is Popular. Dame Fashion’s Decrees. New York Correspondence:

&AINING in numbers and variety with every showing of new gowns are the collargx ettes that top them. From a simple band of ribbon fastening at the back un- ! f der two little y frills to an affair J\ that is almost an entire toilet in itself, there are lit- • < erally hundreds

of intermediate novelties for the embellishment of costume and wearer in the shape of bands, pufferies, bows, and flddlededees of all sorts, and all may be called collarettes. Old-fash-ioned lace collars, round at the back, and coming to points at the front, are set on stocks, the space between the front points of the collar being filled with gathered chiffon over satin to match the stock A fold of velvet drawn In many soft crinkles about the neck fastens at the back under a huge pair of fan-like loops. At the lower edge of the collar in front is fastened a fan of chiffon. A yard and a quarter of five-inch chiffon is needed. This is doubled and drawn in at the centre under a buckle or a fold of Itself. Scores of these collarette models are put forward Invitingly and are grabbed up quickly, too, for the bodice now must be daintily contrived, and if some unusual effect is only included in it it is liked dll the more. If a neck flx-

Ing isn't obtainable then almost any sort of oddity will do as well, only, as has been explained, neck accessories are more abundant Turn to the initial illustration for a good substitute. The novelty here is In the vest, which Is of the skirt material—dotted velvet —and over the bust spreads in two small but conspicuous revers. The rest of the bodice is of brocaded satin; it is worn Inside the skirt, and its jacket fronts are ornamented with huge pearl buttons. Now and then a bodice is seen whose ornamentation is so elaborate and on so grand a scale that It seems necessary to have Its pattern extend on to the skirt below, otherwise the full effect of the design cannot be expressed. So contrived is the bodice of the second sketch. Here the materials are Amazon cloth and liberty velvet, the bodice being plain in back and coming inside the skirt. Its cloth front is pleated, and the velvet yoke showily appliqued. Bows of ribbon set off the collar, front, and waist, and the applique design of the yoke appears on the sleeve cuffs, and is repeated in magnified form on the skirt below. The sleeve puffs are from the cloth. But for the applique, the cloth skirt is entirely plain, and the whole is a very handsome gown. It could be made even more rich by making the sleeves entirely of velvet. In the fur-trimmed example that the artist presents here, the pelt is not only used to ornament the bodice, but extends over the skirt from waist nearly to hem, the strips meeting and imitating a long, sharp-pointed overskirt. Golden-brown broadcloth is the dress stuff, the fur is wool seal, and the skirt is plain in front and in godet pleats at the back. The bodice is plain and tightfitting both back and front, and on its

front only there is produced with the fur the effect of a double-pointed yoke. A band of fur marks the juhcture of sleeve puffs and cuffs, and a boa of it protects the throat. The range of prices for the different furs offered in these trimming strips is great, so that everyone should be suited. Nearly all of them are dressy and handsome. Some of them, Indeed, are more suitable when thus sliced up than •otherwise. Astrakhan, for Instance, except as an embellishment or finish, dees not look cheap. It is suitable only for elderly women of very quiet tastes, aad for such looks well in ample capes

or even in whole cloaks. For younger wearers of stylish pretensions, skirtless short jackets with velvet or moire sleeves may be made of it, such little double-breasted affairs being always jauntily becoming to any figure that is not too stout For facing of collars and the edging and finish of cloth gowns, the fur always looks well. There Is an effort to revive the popularity of gray astrakhan. Nothing in the world is so trying to the complexion of the average woman in winter as this fur, and its revival is almost enough to warrant advising women wearing it in summer if they must show their admiration for it Women have good reason to raise up their bands and cry, “Long live the plain skirt and fancy waist!” It is a fashion from which can be worked

wonders of economy. A woman having one skirt of black satin, velvet 01 moire, and another of ivory satin, brocade or moire, both cut just right witn great organ pipe folds at the back, a well set-out hem all around and a general stiffness and crispness to the whole, will be equipped for all but the most formal affairs, if she has a well-chosen outfit of fancy waists. These may be of velvet—an especial fad just now—of chiffon, draped satin or silk, of satin covered with applique guipure, of silk draped with jetted lace, of cut-out velvet over satin of a contrasting color, of heavily jetted and spangled brocade, or of any of the Innumerable fancy silken weaves, rich silken grenadines—for instance, over IJntng of contrasting color. As for colors, literally any combination that Is harmonious, or even correctly striking, and that Is something very often different from harmony, may be employed. Cerise draped with black chiffon is a favorite notion, the great puffs of the sleeves being slung into loops of cerise ribbons, that they may not droop too much, and ribbon being generously employed at throat and belt. Blue is fashionable, either in combination with black or cerise, or made In several of its own shades. Yellow and cream laces are much employed, not only in yokes, collars and berthas, but in all over seamless effects. Great spreading collars of lace are used with all sorts of bodices, lending an unfailing effect of elegance even wnen the lace is not a genuine antique. Sometimes, when the hues and cut are comparatively quiet, very jaunty

effects are produced by this fashion. An example of it is portrayed by the fourth picture, wherein is depicted a visiting costume of black satin. The waist has a full front gathered at the neck and belt, and black velvet collar, belt and shoulder knots. It is completed by accordion-pleated epaulettes and' basque of black mousseline de sole. The plain skirt is pleated in back. With this is sketched a hat that is designed to accompany the dress, with which it is in tasteful accord. There is a low crown of black wings, the edges toward the outside, and the garniture consists of knots of pale-blue velvet back and front, two upright wings, and a fancy black aigrette. Spanish hats are much worn, even by very staid-looking folks, but the latter type is not at her best with a torredo hat aslant her head, and cocked out of line by a row of brilliant roses or a fold of velvet set next her hair on one side. The young and pretty girl looks, perhaps, a little bit too dashing in the same style, but that is not now deemed objectionable. One trick that is especially expressive of challenge Is that of ■wearing the hat—whose brim upturns, anyhow—well back upon the forehead. The next and final picture shows one of this sort. In this instance it of a wire shape covered with blue velvet, and trimmed in front with ostrich plumes and an aigrette. Besides this hat, the picture shows a simple and natty blue serge gown. In it an entirely plain skirt Is topped by a blouse waist that fastens at the side, and is ornamented on the left shoulder with three satin knots. Similar knots are used to .drape the sleeves, and also appear on the folded satin belt. The folded collar has a larger rosette in back. Copyright. 1894. The proportion of whites has increased an i that of colored population has decreased at each census excepting those taken in 181 Q and 1880. Male servants are taxed In Great Britain and several other countries.

A FRONT SIDE HIGHLY WROUGHT.

FURRED IN JOINTS.

DECORATIONS FROM THE PLEATING FRAME.

AN EIGHT-KNOT BODICE.